ways to move a rear back

[codfish]

I know about moving the mounting points back, say an inch.

But is it OK to just move the rear back an inch by just loosening the u-bolts, and using the front holes in the perches, instead of the middle locating hole?  The rear would still be held solid with the u-bolts, and the bottom plate would move as well.

Just thinking here

codfish

[That One Guy]

why move it back, it's funner to move it forward

[cu440da]

I know about moving the mounting points back, say an inch.

But is it OK to just move the rear back an inch by just loosening the u-bolts, and using the front holes in the perches, instead of the middle locating hole?  The rear would still be held solid with the u-joints, and the bottom plate would move as well.

Just thinking here

codfish

Thats the way I was going to do it. I see no reason why it shouldn't be rock solid. The hole is just to locate the rear, the u-bolts will keep it locked in place with the spring pack bolt in the pad. I can't imagine the springs would be affected by moving it back such a small amount.

I was just eyeballing mine yesterday, the gas tank will be awfully close and the shocks, too. Slight dimpling of the tank might be needed. Driveshaft will likely need to be lengthened.

[73swinger]

you'll have to drill another hole in the bottom plates for clearance over the nut

[robx4406]

I wouldn't do it using the front perch hole.

The car was designed with certain leverages.

I'd buy/fab an extended hanger and use the stock springs.  This will move them back the required amount, still using the original 20" front segment.

[codfish]

The shocks would be alot closer to the tank for sure, but i'm certain there would be room.

Only reason I'm thinking about doing it this way is because I have my springs moved into the frame rails, so I can't really move the original hangers back, they're long gone.  Only other alternative would be to drill new holes in the mounting boxes, which would be a real PITA to do evenly.  The outside holes are too close to the floor boards to get a drill in there straightly.  Would have to do it on an angle


codfish

[abqdart]

I did it to codfish. Only way is to check and see how it does.  There seems to be nothing that is consistant with these things. What might work for me may not for you......I say try it and see Good luck!

[codfish]

Hey abqdart,

Any ill effects at all?   I really would like to run a taller tire on this thing.

thanks
codfish

[acpat]

I am in the same boat 

[Ciscodog]

You can do it that way.  I did it in my satellite with no issues. 

Johndirt - you need to move it back if you want anything taller than a 28 " tire.

[codfish]

Oh and I need to get a new driveshaft anyhow, so cost is pretty much zero!!!

codfish

[smitty72]

I just had every thing moved back when I had the rear moved in. just drilled new holes for every thing at once. I sdid have the bolt holes int he frame for the rear eye reinforced

it was easier because I had cut the floor out to be replaced and had a tube welded in the frame rails where the rear eye comes thru them

[73swinger]

The shocks would be alot closer to the tank for sure, but i'm certain there would be room.

Only reason I'm thinking about doing it this way is because I have my springs moved into the frame rails, so I can't really move the original hangers back, they're long gone.  Only other alternative would be to drill new holes in the mounting boxes, which would be a real PITA to do evenly.  The outside holes are too close to the floor boards to get a drill in there straightly.  Would have to do it on an angle


codfish

I don't see any problem running the front hole on your perches, but if you did want to drill a new hole then drill through both sides of your boxes from the inside with long bit. I had to enlarge mine to 5/8 after I had them welded in.....OOOPS

[abqdart]

Hey abqdart,

Any ill effects at all?   I really would like to run a taller tire on this thing.

thanks
codfish

I haven't run it yet so I could not tell you. You do have to move it back an Inch or so to get those 28" tall tires in there. I actually decided last night that I was going to drill new holes in the box's an inch farther back so my Spring perch's would be 100% correct. My opinion, if you havent drilled holes in your Box's than do it the way its supposed to go, move the holes back an inch or whatever you need to. If you just flat out dont want to you can do it later after you see if it works or not, just make sure you drill those holes in the right place so you arent in need of another driveshaft. I mean an inch on the perches or an inch on the box's STILL is an inch......

[73swinger]

Fair enough, but you're wrong about doing that for 28" tires. They will fit with NO MODS, anything taller and you may need to.

[abqdart]

Well, I just got back in from the garage. Re drilled the box's like i said I was gonna do. everything seems good so far. now to RE-Do the spring perches for the 3rd time . While everything is apart I am going to redo my E-brake cable, finish up my right quarter panel that I am in the middle of replacing and just a few other odds and ends on that end of the car. Now that I think about it, 73swinger is right, I was going to run a 29"  or 30"  tall tire, dont remember......I decided on a 28" and I moved it back in the well for down the road JUST IN CASE. Besides it looks much better in the middle of the wheel well in my opinion.....

[joesnow]

I made a 3/4: spacer for the front hanger and shimmed it back.

[Winter]

I used a B-body front hangar from a 68' Ply. and turned the pass side upside down (after filing the holes to fit the offset)  on a 68' Barr. in order to compensate for the extra arch on the pass. side SS springs. The height difference was too much for the stock V-8 torsion bars to react evenly; and I used 1 in. Aluminum lowering blocks to get back to HDX spring height, they fit using existing the U-bolts. I still have 1 inch of room in the drive shaft but 1* less neg. pinion angle, which is due to the huge arching of the SS's. also I don't have a stock gas tank back there, and the rear shackles are slightly angled to the rear; this angle was greater before the spring exchange and was excessive to the point of touching the offset to hangar bracket. So in conclusion, the arch of the leaf set is critical to pinion angle; and neg. pinion angle must be the first setting.
     I raced the car and the rear dropped 1", so out come the 1" spacers and in go the 4*degree wedges. I have to complement Bill on the front strut rods, they work the front like a hinge, and it pops up fast.  12.84 1/4 @ 106, 60ft.@ 1.95. best ever, for this car.and stable too. Thats on real street tires 275x14 kellychargers bias/belted.