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Topic: acid dipping (Read 430 times)
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hemicop
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Posts: 215
BigBlockDart.Com
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Anybody know of a place that still will acid-dip parts?
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MVRCorp
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Local is cheaper. Where are you located?
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IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER YOU HAVE AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
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hemicop
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I'm in Phoenix, az. but no one around here sems to do it. I don't mind shipping parts, I just want it done..........
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71dusterjon
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my friend sends his parts to redistrip i believe its called. im in Fountain Hills and hes in New River, so i would do a search since i believe its local.
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Jon
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MoPar_or _NoCar
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I work @ a Galvanizing plant and I clean my parts with 150 degree Sulfiric and Caustic acids. Have never tried to lighten anything but will try a junk hood or something. I practicly Galvanized an entire 72' P/U once, frame, inner fenders, core support, basicly everything that didn't move or exterior metal.
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hemicop
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Thanks, but what I'm looking for is a place that'll dip these things in long enough to actually lighten-up the part. The aircraft industry refers to it as "chemical milling", but most places I've seen/heard of are for prepping parts, not lightening them
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71dusterjon
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never heard of that. does it stay the original size?
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Jon
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hemicop
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The factory S/S cars had certain parts (doors & front bumper) dipped to remove weight as the metal was made thinner, doesn't change the overall size, though. Unless you have a thickness gauge you can't tell. Later on ProStock & Trans-AM cars had entire bodies dipped to remove weight. The problem (back then) was sometimes they were too thin then they'd have to spray foam onto the inner panels so they wouldn't buckle at speed. it's an old idea, ut still used.
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loiq
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I saw the '71 Dick Landy pro stock challenger before it was restored and it was acid dipped so thin it looked like it had rust pinholes in a few areas but it was like that since day 1.
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MoPar_or _NoCar
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So you peaked my interest, I took a 3" dia. 14 guage ".075" plate and left it in a sulfuric acid bath for 4 hours. Temp is 150 degrees and 10% acid. Just pulled it out and it's now .067 but has no profile left for the acid to attack so I will leave it in til the morning and remeasure. I am going to do a brand X bumper and see the actual weight difference and time. May turn it to mush! Do you have any specs or links for info on this process? I'm assuming that doors and fenders are 18 guage .048, what's a minimun thickness to maintain rigidity? If this works I can help you out and all you pay is shipping to and from commercial 97062.
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hemicop
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Thanks, that'll work. WAAAAAY back when, as I said this was common practice among racers & Mopar in particular did it with their "68 S/S cars. It's still used today by the aerospace industry so I assume they'd be the "go to" guys for details. A company in Southern Calif, Aero Chem, (which is still in business) used to do most P/S cars back then as they were the only one with facilities large enough to accomodate a whole body. I contacted them but they said they really no longer cater to racers & such (EPA regs & all that) so that resource was out. I know someone, somewhere still does it, as I've heard of cars still being done. I have a friend that used to work for Penske Racing back then & he said they used Aero Chem,but other than that one place, I don't know of any others.
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hemicop
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As I recall, the original S/S Dart bumper went from something like 24-26lbs down to about 16lbs or so with this method.
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loiq
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I thought muriatic acid was used for acid dipping?
Be aware that when you acid dip your parts the acid will stay in the seams and leech out over time unless you wash it REALLY good.
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hemicop
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I thought muriatic acid was used for acid dipping?
Be aware that when you acid dip your parts the acid will stay in the seams and leech out over time unless you wash it REALLY good.
Yeah, that's one down-side of it, but it IS my responsibility for that, so I'll just have to be REAL thorough 
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68fish
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I know exactly what you're talking about but don't know anyone that does it on automotive parts.
At work, (aircraft) I use Weatherford Aerospace in Weatherford Texas. I kinda doubt they'd tackle it but you never know. If I get a chance tomorrow I'll call them and ask. Good Luck
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MoPar_or _NoCar
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I thought muriatic acid was used for acid dipping?
Be aware that when you acid dip your parts the acid will stay in the seams and leech out over time unless you wash it REALLY good.
 Muratic is the same as Hydrachloric and pickles the steel cold but doesn't do quite as well. It is also VERY regulated due to high chloride levels and need to be very concentrated. I have used Muratic on small parts @ home, but mainly use it it my pool. We utilize Sulfuric heated to 150 which cleans better than sandblasting white. I will be able to rinse the parts clean and typicaly dip in ammonium chloride to keep from flash rusting. I bought a scrap bumper today from U-pull-it for $3 and will give an update with specs and pics.
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hemicop
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I appreciate he effort. You're the first & only person I've heard of that has experoence with handling acids & is willing to experiment. Please keep me posted.......
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Daniel
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I had my done in Tempe AZ at AZ redi strip it is off of Rio Salado drive across the street from a Mopar shop near the 202.
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68_Val_Sedan
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67 dart 270 presently a /6 but destined to be a  ,68 Chrysler 300 Convertible 440 auto
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hemicop
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I had my done in Tempe AZ at AZ redi strip it is off of Rio Salado drive across the street from a Mopar shop near the 202.
They'll actually vat things long enough to remove weight?
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bill72dart
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Morgantown, WV
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Daniel
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You could ask them to, When they did my 72 Cuda it was in overnight. I do not know if it made it thinner or how much if it did. I could measure the quarters or front fenders. I do not know how I could get the calipers to measure the doors. So if you know what it should[i][/i]be before I can give you the after thickness if that helps.
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