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Topic: Running brake lines from the master cylinder. (Read 420 times)
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Thin White Duke
Full Member
 
Offline
Posts: 310
BigBlockDart.Com
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I have a Wilwood master that is moved over to the fender skirt to clear my hemi. From the fitting to the fender skirt is only about 2". I guess my options are: 1. Run solid lines straight out the side. 2. Put banjo fittings and run them down and then out through bulkheads. Any ideas?
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sunsetdart
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Don't have a hemi in my car but I did run the front brake line into the bulkhead and ran it across the inside of the firewall. Then put a bulkhead fitting on the drivers side and ran the line out from there.
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dartracer
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Stainles flex hose, that way you can move the master to run the valves.
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PureGTS
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3. you can still run hard lines without the straight through the fender routing but it will take a little finessing. 2" isnn't that tight when it comes to bending the lines to fit. A little cramped for continual servicing, but once you've done its it is done and you won't be back for a long time. Get some hard line and practice how to bend it as short as possible. It won't take you long to figure out you can do it. To make the process easier check your bends with the M/C in place, then remove it install the lines and reinstall it. Then finish bending, routing and cutting. Repeat process with the fabbed up lines and you're all set. Use the shorter fittings on the new hard lines and you be that much better off. You can do this by hand without any special tools. I just finished a disc brake retrofit to a 66 Impala that required two hard 90* bends within an inch of each other, to fit between the mounting point and the fender skirt. It was about 2 1/2" gap also. I did all the bending using a 9/16ths deep socket, a jack handle and a engine stand to brace the handle in. Don't be afraid to try. You'll only lose about $3-$6 of line by trying. If you still don't like the turn out you're only out that $6. As opposed to paying someone else to do it for you. Also, look at the money you'll save versus braided lines, banjo fittings, etc. That stuff ain't cheap.
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Logged
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Knowldge is power, power is speed, speed is good, low E.T. is better
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Thin White Duke
Full Member
 
Offline
Posts: 310
BigBlockDart.Com
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I found some slick 1/2"-20 banjo fittings at Jerry Bickle chassis. That way I can sneak 'em in on the driver's side!
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NYrr496
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I have a couple of really trick tubing benders that will bend 180's. I've gotten some lines into some really tight places by putting a "U" bend into it.
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Logged
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It takes a Mopar to catch a Mopar.
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Capt Jack
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Stainles flex hose, that way you can move the master to run the valves.
can those be run the entire length/longer lengths of the brake lines or are they more for shorter runs? I have a single master in the coronet (along with two line locks) Im hoping to replace with the alum dual master cylinder I have (along with the associated proportioning valve). being able to run stainless flex lines would make life much easier
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sunsetdart
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I saw recently that you can use more flex/stainless hose if you use the ones with teflon lining. They don't tend to stretch in the hose when applying brake pressure as do a rubber lined hose.
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mopwr2004a
Jr. Member

Offline
Posts: 23
BigBlockDart.Com
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nyrr496 what brand of benders do you have and where did you get them
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NYrr496
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Logged
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It takes a Mopar to catch a Mopar.
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