How do you like this Dash/Cluster in my Scamp?

[Scamp]

I think this is a little more appropriate and modern for a road racer.

What do you guys think?

Scamp

[DartGTDan]

Scamp,

Looks good!    Did you gut the original cluster housing or is that a RedLine insert?  I assume the larger gauges are 3 3/8" diameter and the smaller gauges are 2 1/16" diameter?
Where are your headlamp & wiper switches?  Is the toggle switch panel used for the headlamp & wiper functions?
Please forward many more details & schematics if you have them!
What are the round items on either side of the radio hole?
Dan

[Scamp]

Answers to DartGTDan (in order)

Gutted one I bought on EBAY and custom made an aluminum panel to fit filled panel holes with styrene from a model shop
3 3/8 & 2 1/16 is correct
Headlamp switch in metal Dash panel below cluster (below where it was, switch reached)
Wiper switch in metal Dash panel below cluster (below where it was, switch reached).  You can see it in the top pic.
The button next to the wiper switch is for the washer.

Toggle switches are for many things, someof which I havent even though of.
Manifold heaters
Front & Rear ventilation fans
Defroster heater
Defroster fan
etc.

The round "things" on either side of the radio hole are billet aluminum aircraft vents
The round "things" on either side of the toggle switches are billet aluminum aircraft LED map lights
The two LEDs either side at the top of the tach are LED TS indicators
The LED at the bottom between the tach and speedo is the brights indicator
The two LEDS on the left are for Brake warning and Overtemp (because I could)


No schematic (although I could drwaw one up), I just marked up the factory manual.  It might help that I'm an Electrical Engineer. 

P.S.  The cluster plugs into the existing unmodified wiring with the standard plug (cut off the EBAY circuit board) and mounts with the original screws.

Scamp

[hemi_jay]

Looks awesome, if I may ask, how do you connect LEDs to work the way that you incorporated them?

[Scamp]

A little research and a little math,
Find an LED that you like for which you can find the specs.
Some have ballasts resistors inside to run on 12-14 V
Calculate the size of the ballast resistor that will keep the current at what the LED needs.
Solder & Heat shrink and install it where you want it.
I found those bezels at an electronic surplus website.
I fit Blue LEDs (465nm) inside of the Westech Gauges to match the Autometers
I actually set up the Gauge lights on a dimmer (pot in series with the ballast & LEDs)
The brights indicator was too bright so I put a neutral density filter in front of it
They all seem to work pretty well.

Again, it probably helps that I am an Electrical Engineer.   

Scamp

P.S  There is a lot of LED info & sources on the web

[dangerdawg]

 , i like it!

[DartGTDan]

Scamp,

Since you're an electrical engineer, I was hoping you could look at a schematic I've drawn up.

I want to replace the original wiper/wash switch in my Dart (which should be identical to what you have) and replace it with 3 toggle switches (which will match my new headlamp switches (3-toggles)).
I have the schematic attached (top portion is factory/original, bottom portion is my idea).

I have built the relay circuit & switches and attached it to my wiper motor (by disconnecting the bulkhead connector at the firewall and slipping female terminals over the bulkhead connector's male terminals which lead directly to the wiper motor).  I then power the system directly to the B+ and B- terminals.  The Ignition (Acc'y/Run) is also tied to B+ for testing purposes.

Once I toggle the "ON/OFF" switch to "ON" the wiper motor "LOW" speed is engaged (as it should be).  However, when I toggle the "ON/OFF" switch to "OFF" the wiper motor keeps going in "LOW" speed.  To get the wiper motor to stop moving I must disconnect the B+ and B- wires from the battery, which causes the wiper motor to coast to a stop.

Can you please look at my circuit and tell me what I missed or screwed up?

Hopefully if we can get this sqaured away other people could use this idea.

Thanks,

Dan

[68_Val_Sedan]

I checkedd out your wiper switch diagram it it looks like it should work as designed.    I have a few questions about the run on proplem you are having.  I assume the wiper motor assembly works normally when the stock switch is hooked up ( this will eliminate the park switch in the moor as being bad)  when you disconenct the battery wires do you hear the realy click off ?   If so can you measure voltage at the low side relay terminal 86 when the run on condition occurs.   Thanks !

[Scamp]

I knew I shouldn't have told that!!

A "quick" look and please don't take offense (remember free advice is worth what you paid for it).
The factory uses a switch that could be described as double pole/triple throw (on-on-on), even though it is a rotary.
There are 4 wires leaving the factory switch
You have tried to duplicate this with 2 single pole double throw switches and relays
And have 5 wires leaving your switch.
Insert Editorial Comment here ==> You violated the KISS principal
If I had just purchased your car I would install a DPTT (DP3T) switch, use the extra switch and the relays to control something else.
Make your switch behave exactly as the factory's.  It is simultaneous (DPTT/DP3T) yours isn't.

My Philosophy:
Keep it simple and duplicate factory design wherver possible.  They paid Engineers good money to make it work, cheap AND last 5 yrs/100,000 miles.    And here we are 30 - 40 years later still driving/racing and improving them.

BTW nice schematic and good work you are obviously NOT an amateur , you just missed by a little.  What did you use to draw it?
Believe me I've done worse.

Here is a link to some switches:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?FS=TRUE&Ne=688352+688724&N=254107+4294734351+4294734915+1323038&Ns=P_Switch+Function%7c1%7c%7cP_SField

Put this ( "DP3T toggle" "on-on-on" ) in Google for some more leads incl EBAY.

Be sure and check you amp draw and get a switch that's rated correctly.

BTW All Electronics is a good source for components including switches and LEDs
www.allelectronics.com

Hope this helps.
Bud

P.S.  I see you put in a fuse that's great!

[fourspeed]

Nice.

[hemi_jay]

All electronics is gonna sell me a lot of stuff 

[DartGTDan]

Scamp,

Thanks for pointing out the obvious (2P3T toggle on-on-on).  Sometimes you can't see the forest for the trees!  Doh!
As soon as I find a 2PT3 toggle I'll get it hooked up and going.
I'm an electronics technician, by profession, and I use AutoCAD (R14) to draw all my schematics.
I'll let you know my progress as soon as I do it!

Thanks,

Dan

[Scamp]

Dan,

You are welcome.

It's a small world, I took trade electronics in HS and was an ET1 in the USN.

After the Navy I got my BSEE, then an MBA.

I thoiught that looked like a ACAD dwg, nice work!
Been using AutoCAD since 1982 (release 1.4).  I was a Beta test site for everything up to 9 (~5 years).

Have fun and keep up the good work.

Keith
(Scamp)

[CudaSRT8]

Scamp,
I'm enjoying watching your build.   The dash is looking REALLY NICE.    Has a both "business" AND "attractive" look to it.  Can you share your source with us for the LED indicator lights, the billet AC vents and the billet map lights.   I'm interested in incorporating something like that into my build, instead of the usual "street rod" stuff...

[Scamp]

Ok I cheated just a little, I've been a private pilot for 37 yrs and a member of the EAA (Experimental Aircraft association for more than 35 years.  So A/C instruments are familiar to me.  The stuff isn't cheap but it's very well made.

The lights came from Steinair.  They also have very nice LED indicators.  I almost used theirs but decided to build my own. (It's just the way I am. 
http://www.steinair.com/lights.htm

I don't remember exactly where I got the vents but here are some links. Aircraft Spruce is a great source for a lot of custom "stuff". The vents are commonly called "eyeball vents" if you want to Google.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ap/vents.html

Wicks Also:
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/

Vent info:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=30762 

Both looking pretty nice, but not cheap!
http://www.airkitllc.com/

I guess these are just samples of the many things on my car that started life somewhere else.
Boats, Planes, Porsche, Mustang Cobra, Cable tray, Electrical construction, military surplus, etc.

A post script for those considering powder coat because brake fluid doesn't affect it.
BS!!!!

Brake fluid leaked onto my PC rear and now part of it is bubbled!!

I will add another post asking a question about a starting problem.

Good night
Scamp

[Scamp]

Hey Hey, that's a nice looking dash!!

Maybe more later (I've got to get some sleep) 

First thing I would do is check the sender with a good ohm meter.

When full it should'nt be much below 8-10 ohms

When empty it should be ~ 90 ohms.

Be sure that you pull all wires off of the sender when you check it.

Let me know what you find.

Second (maybe 1st?), check your grounds at each end

Scamp

[mrspeeddemon]

Is your shift light a self contained unit or an individual light that uses an RPM activation switch? - did you try taking the sending unit out and hooking it up out of the cell to test it. My buddy and I went throught 3 of those cheap universal ones before we got one to work, the windings aren't tight and get caught on the arm- then they break = no gauge.

[Halfaed]

Nice and simple!

[sunsetdart]

very nice!!!!! bet it looks great at nite.

[Scamp]

Again this is what I would do about the sender, I know nothing about the shift light.
I have read (Eherenberg) that if your sender goes much below 8-10 ohms that you can burn out a factory gauge.
So if my sender worked I would bend the float arm so that when the tank was full it would be at ~10 ohms.
To test the gauge get a 0-100 ohm pot. hook it up like a sender and see what your gauge reads as you rotate the pot.
If you can't find a pot then use discrete resistors, say 10, 20, 40 and 60.  Or something close.
Those should be about F. 3/4, 1/2, 1/4 & E

If the sender and the guage both check out, then it seems that the wiring must be mixed up somewhere.

BTW my Autometer speedo isn't working so I have to check it out. 

Scamp

[ValiantOne]

that is a great looking dash. wow.

[Scamp]

 
Scamp (50th Post!!)

[CudaSRT8]

Scamp,
Thanks for the links to that aircraft stuff.   I really like the LED indicators and the LED map lights.   The AC vents certainly are pricey though.   May go with the aftermarket AC vents that I have afterall.  I'll make that decision as I get closer to building my RM dash. 
Thanks again...

[abodyjoe]

i like

[ValiantOne]

Keith,

I noticed you have a volt meter in your new gauge set in place of the old mopar amp meter. I once read an article on how to do that. Instead of running all the power through the amp gauge like ma. mopar did.

How did you do yours? Forgive me if I am not even close to understanding enough to ask an intellegent question  the extent of my electrical ability is to RTFM and follow the steps one by one 

[Scamp]

Just hooking up a volt meter does not stop all of your "juice" from flowing through the bulkhead connector.  This is where problems typically arise.

This is way beyond the scope of a simple reply.

Here is the link to the tech info list on Mopar Action: http://www.moparaction.com/Tech/archive.html
Some more helpful links:
http://ramchargercentral.com/index.php?topic=46857.0
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml (Great site!)

Scamp

[ValiantOne]

Just hooking up a volt meter does not stop all of your "juice" from flowing through the bulkhead connector.  This is where problems typically arise.

This is way beyond the scope of a simple reply.

Here is the link to the tech info list on Mopar Action: http://www.moparaction.com/Tech/archive.html
Some more helpful links:
http://ramchargercentral.com/index.php?topic=46857.0
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml (Great site!)

Scamp

thanks for the sources   

[75Dart440]

scamp since your good with wiring i hope you can help,

           i wired up my autometer fuel gauge according to the instructions, the gauge its self took three wires 1. an ignition power source 2. a ground & 3. a sender wire from the sending unit on my fuel cell. Then the sending unit has only two wires, a ground and the sender wire which goes the the gauge. Now when i flip my ignition switch on, you can see the needle move a little bit but it only reads Empty no matter how much gas is in the tank. Both the gauge and the sending unit on the fuel cell are 0-90 ohms resistance, so what could be the problem?

also the first week or two when the fuel gauge was wired up it would read 1/4 or half but that was still inaccurate

I have the Autometer NV series programmable Fuel Gauge in my Dart and it did the exact same thing yours is doing.  I tried a new sender, completely bypassed all of the factory wiring, etc.  Finally out of desparation, I  set the gauge up for "custom settings" and then set it back to the factory Chrysler 73-0 setting and it worked.  It was as if it needed rebooted.