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Author Topic: Power to manual brakes  (Read 334 times)
Spook50
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Power to manual brakes
« on: June 23, 2008, 03:50:58 PM »

I've got to replace my master cylinder, and figured this would be the best opportunity to convert from power to manual brakes in my '74 Duster. I've been hearing that I WILL need a different pushrod and that I WON'T need a different pushrod, so which is correct? If I do need a different length pushrod, does it need to be longer or shorter?

Also, any benefit to using a later model master cylinder in a manual application? I've talked to a couple folks that prefer using a later model aluminum MC, but obviously, they needed an adapter plate to use it.
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Re: Power to manual brakes
« Reply #1 on: June 23, 2008, 04:12:06 PM »

you need the shorter pushrod because it doesnt need to be as long because you dont have a booster in there anymore,

i absolutly love the reman master i bought from napa for $17 for manual disk, its works great, stoping is great, i have the 11.75 on the front and i can stop in 105ft from 60mph, why buy an expensive aluminum one and have to buy an adapter plate also, i can stop better than any 2008 vehicle
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'72 Duster: daily driver in 3 seasons, paid for, insured by and gased up, all by my 17 year old salary

225, 7 1/4, working on 451, and 8 3/4
brakes, 11 3/4

60-0: 105 ft.
cornering gs: estimate: .90

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Re: Power to manual brakes
« Reply #2 on: June 23, 2008, 05:42:37 PM »

you need the shorter pushrod because it doesnt need to be as long because you dont have a booster in there anymore,

i absolutly love the reman master i bought from napa for $17 for manual disk, its works great, stoping is great, i have the 11.75 on the front and i can stop in 105ft from 60mph, why buy an expensive aluminum one and have to buy an adapter plate also, i can stop better than any 2008 vehicle

any 2008 vehicle?
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Spook50
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Re: Power to manual brakes
« Reply #3 on: June 24, 2008, 01:06:03 AM »

you need the shorter pushrod because it doesnt need to be as long because you dont have a booster in there anymore,

i absolutly love the reman master i bought from napa for $17 for manual disk, its works great, stoping is great, i have the 11.75 on the front and i can stop in 105ft from 60mph, why buy an expensive aluminum one and have to buy an adapter plate also, i can stop better than any 2008 vehicle

So since you have to shorten it, Can I get away with just cutting it down to the necessary length?
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rokketride
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Re: Power to manual brakes
« Reply #4 on: June 24, 2008, 02:15:11 AM »

why buy an expensive aluminum one and have to buy an adapter plate also
lighter weight and no rust?
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Re: Power to manual brakes
« Reply #5 on: June 30, 2008, 02:34:46 AM »

60-0 in 105? That's really good! Mopar Action green brick was doing it at 127ft and that years Viper was 125ft. I'm jealous....
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Re: Power to manual brakes
« Reply #6 on: July 01, 2008, 10:08:38 AM »

Quote
So since you have to shorten it, Can I get away with just cutting it down to the necessary length?

Not exactly that simple.  The manual rod has a groove machined in the master cylinder end, that holds a rubber ring.  This rubber ring is what locks that rod into the manual brake master cylinder.  I believe that the power brake rod doesn't have this retaining groove, but I am not 100% positive.

Jegs, Summit and Mancini all carry the manual brake adjustable rod, which you would need anyway, for use with the 4-bolt to 2-bolt master cylinder conversion.
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moparrr07
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Re: Power to manual brakes
« Reply #7 on: July 08, 2008, 08:05:07 PM »

60-0 in 105? That's really good! Mopar Action green brick was doing it at 127ft and that years Viper was 125ft. I'm jealous....

yeah there could 10ft difference depending on road surface but it think it was mostly because of my tires

when i broke in the brakes, i had a headache afterwords

why buy an expensive aluminum one and have to buy an adapter plate also
lighter weight and no rust?

i painted mine black and it doesnt rust and how much more would it really weigh? the weight of the hamburger you ate between rounds?
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'72 Duster: daily driver in 3 seasons, paid for, insured by and gased up, all by my 17 year old salary

225, 7 1/4, working on 451, and 8 3/4
brakes, 11 3/4

60-0: 105 ft.
cornering gs: estimate: .90

50% custom interior
joesnow
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Re: Power to manual brakes
« Reply #8 on: July 08, 2008, 09:10:34 PM »

I used a manual drum brake rod works fine.
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mj440
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Re: Power to manual brakes
« Reply #9 on: July 09, 2008, 08:00:04 PM »

This is some very useful info, I'm trying to do the same in converting my 72 duster from power to manual breaks but does it make a difference on master cylinder if the front brakes are disc or drum? also if they are basic disc over 4 piston caliber disc. ( My car a 340 car and I guess 4 pistion calibers where factory)

just curious my booster is mount on bracket above the factory location on the firewall is that normal?

Sorry not try to jack your thread just digging a little deeper.

Thanks
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75Dart440
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Re: Power to manual brakes
« Reply #10 on: July 09, 2008, 09:07:48 PM »

You will need to install a disc brake master cylinder.  They are different from the manual drum units.  Not sure about the Kelsey Hayes system if it used a different MC or not. 
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Re: Power to manual brakes
« Reply #11 on: July 09, 2008, 11:07:15 PM »

the drum and disk masters are different, the drum reservoirs are 50/50 and the disk/drums reservoirs are split 70/30 or so, bigger reservoir going to the master, they are the same (or very very similar) between the 4 piston and later design single piston

yes bolts to the firewall
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'72 Duster: daily driver in 3 seasons, paid for, insured by and gased up, all by my 17 year old salary

225, 7 1/4, working on 451, and 8 3/4
brakes, 11 3/4

60-0: 105 ft.
cornering gs: estimate: .90

50% custom interior
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