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Topic: Power to manual brakes (Read 327 times)
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Spook50
Full Member
 
Offline
Posts: 196
Yeah, I work on these
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I've got to replace my master cylinder, and figured this would be the best opportunity to convert from power to manual brakes in my '74 Duster. I've been hearing that I WILL need a different pushrod and that I WON'T need a different pushrod, so which is correct? If I do need a different length pushrod, does it need to be longer or shorter?
Also, any benefit to using a later model master cylinder in a manual application? I've talked to a couple folks that prefer using a later model aluminum MC, but obviously, they needed an adapter plate to use it.
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BOOM shalock-lock boom...
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moparrr07
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you need the shorter pushrod because it doesnt need to be as long because you dont have a booster in there anymore,
i absolutly love the reman master i bought from napa for $17 for manual disk, its works great, stoping is great, i have the 11.75 on the front and i can stop in 105ft from 60mph, why buy an expensive aluminum one and have to buy an adapter plate also, i can stop better than any 2008 vehicle
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'72 Duster: daily driver in 3 seasons, paid for, insured by and gased up, all by my 17 year old salary
225, 7 1/4, working on 451, and 8 3/4 brakes, 11 3/4
60-0: 105 ft. cornering gs: estimate: .90
50% custom interior
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mopowers
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you need the shorter pushrod because it doesnt need to be as long because you dont have a booster in there anymore,
i absolutly love the reman master i bought from napa for $17 for manual disk, its works great, stoping is great, i have the 11.75 on the front and i can stop in 105ft from 60mph, why buy an expensive aluminum one and have to buy an adapter plate also, i can stop better than any 2008 vehicle
any 2008 vehicle?
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66 Dart GT: BB project. shooting for high 10's 2006 Dakota 
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Spook50
Full Member
 
Offline
Posts: 196
Yeah, I work on these
|
you need the shorter pushrod because it doesnt need to be as long because you dont have a booster in there anymore,
i absolutly love the reman master i bought from napa for $17 for manual disk, its works great, stoping is great, i have the 11.75 on the front and i can stop in 105ft from 60mph, why buy an expensive aluminum one and have to buy an adapter plate also, i can stop better than any 2008 vehicle
So since you have to shorten it, Can I get away with just cutting it down to the necessary length?
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BOOM shalock-lock boom...
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rokketride
Jr. Member

Offline
Posts: 31
BigBlockDart.Com
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why buy an expensive aluminum one and have to buy an adapter plate also
lighter weight and no rust?
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PureGTS
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60-0 in 105? That's really good! Mopar Action green brick was doing it at 127ft and that years Viper was 125ft. I'm jealous....
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Knowldge is power, power is speed, speed is good, low E.T. is better
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75Dart440
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So since you have to shorten it, Can I get away with just cutting it down to the necessary length?
Not exactly that simple. The manual rod has a groove machined in the master cylinder end, that holds a rubber ring. This rubber ring is what locks that rod into the manual brake master cylinder. I believe that the power brake rod doesn't have this retaining groove, but I am not 100% positive. Jegs, Summit and Mancini all carry the manual brake adjustable rod, which you would need anyway, for use with the 4-bolt to 2-bolt master cylinder conversion.
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1975 Dodge Dart Sport - 440 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 QC 4x4
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moparrr07
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60-0 in 105? That's really good! Mopar Action green brick was doing it at 127ft and that years Viper was 125ft. I'm jealous....
yeah there could 10ft difference depending on road surface but it think it was mostly because of my tires when i broke in the brakes, i had a headache afterwords why buy an expensive aluminum one and have to buy an adapter plate also
lighter weight and no rust? i painted mine black and it doesnt rust and how much more would it really weigh? the weight of the hamburger you ate between rounds?
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'72 Duster: daily driver in 3 seasons, paid for, insured by and gased up, all by my 17 year old salary
225, 7 1/4, working on 451, and 8 3/4 brakes, 11 3/4
60-0: 105 ft. cornering gs: estimate: .90
50% custom interior
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joesnow
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I used a manual drum brake rod works fine.
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mj440
Jr. Member

Offline
Posts: 94
BigBlockDart.Com
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This is some very useful info, I'm trying to do the same in converting my 72 duster from power to manual breaks but does it make a difference on master cylinder if the front brakes are disc or drum? also if they are basic disc over 4 piston caliber disc. ( My car a 340 car and I guess 4 pistion calibers where factory)
just curious my booster is mount on bracket above the factory location on the firewall is that normal?
Sorry not try to jack your thread just digging a little deeper.
Thanks
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I miss my challenger 
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75Dart440
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You will need to install a disc brake master cylinder. They are different from the manual drum units. Not sure about the Kelsey Hayes system if it used a different MC or not.
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1975 Dodge Dart Sport - 440 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 QC 4x4
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moparrr07
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the drum and disk masters are different, the drum reservoirs are 50/50 and the disk/drums reservoirs are split 70/30 or so, bigger reservoir going to the master, they are the same (or very very similar) between the 4 piston and later design single piston
yes bolts to the firewall
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Logged
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'72 Duster: daily driver in 3 seasons, paid for, insured by and gased up, all by my 17 year old salary
225, 7 1/4, working on 451, and 8 3/4 brakes, 11 3/4
60-0: 105 ft. cornering gs: estimate: .90
50% custom interior
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