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Topic: Lookin' to buy slicks- have Q's (Read 598 times)
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cu440da
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I want to head back to the strip in July, would like to try for better traction this time around. Slicks - are they all tube type? - are true slicks noticibly better than drag radials? - do they "grow" under power? (Cause my car does top fuel type burnouts, ya know  ) - any brand better than the rest? - would used circle track slicks be worth picking up? Are they any different? Any thing else I need to know as I begin shopping?
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Logged
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'67 Notchback- 12.85 @ 109mph
440, M1, modified 750 Holley, .509 cam, template ported 906's, ProParts, 3" x-piped mandrel bent exhaust, Spintech's, 4.10 Sure Grip, 3200 stall, CalTracs and mono's, RR hood bulge fresh air system
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oldkimmer
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.......................No.......yupper.........yes...........supposidly...........nnooo.......yeesss......ask at the track to see what others r runnin in ur bracket........kim.............
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MR. Mechanic...........Panther Pink Duster The Beast has been Unleashed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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dartracer
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You don't have to run tubes, an ols stock and super stock trick was to use a liquid dish soap. Before you would mount then up you brush the soap on the inside of the slick side wall. That way they would not leak down as fast, they still leak just not as fast. So you will need an air sorce. Most tracks require a drive shaft loop when running slicks also. Unles you are going to go alot, I would say the best bang for the buck would be the drag radials.
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oldkimmer
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.........................Slick.....................kim.....................
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MR. Mechanic...........Panther Pink Duster The Beast has been Unleashed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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tpits1
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I run the BF goodrich drag radial on the street as well as the track and i like them alot would buy another set when the time comes my motor makes 540 foot pounds of toque and they hook well with the right amout of air pressure
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chryco
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Googyear Eagles
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Hemi Darts Rule !!!!!
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jamesdart
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circle track slicks are not a wrinkle wall, they might work but i wouldnt waste the money. i like a true slick, i used to keep them in my trunk and carry and extension cord, bottle jack and electric impact gun. chain the street tires to the fence or put them in a friends car. i would strongly suggest against hoosier tires. i bought a set and in about 4 months inside the garage they began to check on the sidewalls. i contacted them and they tried to make good on it. i have heard many many many complains of hoosiers cracking, so to get another set that would do the same, would not make me happy. i am sure they are still good and will work, but wtf! i have had a set of m/t slicks now for about 7 years, they sit in my shed or in the trunk of the car when not used, they have tubes in them, thye have not yet lost the stickiness, and still have no cracks. they hook like a MF too. i have seen cars have traction issues when not running tubes in tube type tires, some times they tend to hop.
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That One Guy
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everyone has their own ideas, my dad runs hoosiers cuz they're the only ones that work right on his, and as long as they've got air in them they don't crack, so far. He runs 32 X 14's we ran 30X9 radial slicks on moms with the big block, Goodyear I've got Mickeys, 28 X 9, tube type, if you don't want the tubes the soap thing is a good one, we did it on moms when she had the small block, only we put it inside the tire, and they didn't leak really, and it was a street/strip car at the time, just changed them at the track of course.
I'd say go with a slick, they're cheaper usually than drag radials, unless I completely missed something, and I'd say that goodyear or Mickey would be a good starting place
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"I'm your Huckelberry" 
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cu440da
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Well, I picked up a pair of Hoosiers 27x8 for cheap, 'cause I'm cheap. They look MUCH bigger than 8", even though they are. Supposed to be drag slicks, but I think they're circle track. They have an F-75 marking which looks to be associated with circle track hard/soft ratings.  Still looking for drag slicks...
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Logged
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'67 Notchback- 12.85 @ 109mph
440, M1, modified 750 Holley, .509 cam, template ported 906's, ProParts, 3" x-piped mandrel bent exhaust, Spintech's, 4.10 Sure Grip, 3200 stall, CalTracs and mono's, RR hood bulge fresh air system
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496dart
Full Member
 
Offline
Posts: 482
BigBlockDart.Com
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drag tires have a softer compound than most circle track tires. Same goes with the DOT versions. dot/radial/ slicks are all about the same price give or take $10 . I like Hoosiers myself . they HOOK. Oh ,,, and just because they have DOT stamped on them doesnt mean they are street legal. Go to the Hoosier site and read what i mean. when buying, pay attention to the SECTION WIDTH listed . http://www.bigblockdart.com/index.php/topic,3550.0.htmlI have a pair of QTP"s for sale by the way - 28x11.5x15
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PureGTS
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Side walls are an issue as they tend to extend more than normal tires, so watch your width clearances. Yes, they do "grow", height wise, at the higher rpms (wheel speed) so if it is tight on your quarter panel you could grow right into the quarter panel and shread the tire. For best results with slicks, use the same size rim as the tread width (no less than 1" difference) Ex: 10x28 on 10" rim; perfect. 11x28 on 10" rim acceptable. 12x29 on 10" and you're not getting all the tread on the ground at launch if you check the tire after the fact, you'll see what I mean. Also, don't let what the big tire guys use for tire pressure influence what you do. 10" slicks don't like 5-7psi or even 10psi! Your car will wander badly... and do so at speed! Not a confidence builder, but it will get your body man all giddy.  Start at 15psi and work down wards, if you must, in 1/2 lb increments. As for who males the best slicks, every MFG has various levels of compounds and wear making choosing the best difficult for your application vs Gary Scelzi. Most with good wear characterisitcs will do you just fine and survive many track outings. Tubes are not needed, but a good idea for safety reasons. I don't use them myself, but I have in the past, but you are still required to use a metal valve stem. Here again, I have tried using the circle track slicks only because they were available to me at the time; a time before the DOT racing tires we have today. The compound is different and I can honestly say that they were better than street tires but they were a far cry from real drag racing slicks when it came to traction and launching the car. I would put ANY other current performance street tire on the car that had better rubber (drag radials, M/T sportsman, etc.) than use those. They are more endurance oriented and have much stiffer sidewalls than what you need at the strip. Remember they are designed for cornering at near 200MPH P.S. John Force does monster burnouts because he can AFFORD to. Remember, you just have to get them sticky not melt them down to the cords.
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Knowldge is power, power is speed, speed is good, low E.T. is better
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Womanator
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I charge my drivers $25 Everytime they do a John Force burnout. Jon $25  Dale $25  Marv $0  Marv jr $100 
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Blvedere
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How much do you pay them if they go rounds?
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Capt Jack
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...Your car will wander badly... and do so at speed! Not a confidence builder, but it will get your body man all giddy. Start at 15psi and work down wards, if you must, in 1/2 lb increments. I'm assuming youre talking about slicks. any advice on a starting pressure for DR's? Ive got a set of Nitto 555R's I've been using and starting to play with the pressure on.
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Womanator
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They keep all the money.I pay all the expences.Somethings wrong here but we all have fun.I do get the tee shirts and trophy's for the case. Doe Joe's  Perfect Light Joe(Dale) 
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PureGTS
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Capt Jack - yeah. Made the mistake myself; not a fun ride at all. It was like trying to drive at freeway speeds with both rear tires flat. And all it would do was get worse the faster you went. The beast was all over the lane; the WHOLE lane. Fortunately, I had enough sense to get out of it early and save the car.
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Knowldge is power, power is speed, speed is good, low E.T. is better
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cu440da
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I'm about to buy some M/T drag slicks. They are wrinkle walls, can they still be used without tubes?
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'67 Notchback- 12.85 @ 109mph
440, M1, modified 750 Holley, .509 cam, template ported 906's, ProParts, 3" x-piped mandrel bent exhaust, Spintech's, 4.10 Sure Grip, 3200 stall, CalTracs and mono's, RR hood bulge fresh air system
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496dart
Full Member
 
Offline
Posts: 482
BigBlockDart.Com
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yes
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