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Topic: 68 Dart front grille turn signal indicator dia? (Read 901 times)
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MyCreation68
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I got some testing done and I'm happy to report that my brake circuitry looks to be correct and is very bright, I have to modify my circuitry so I can showcase how the brake light looks compaired to the parking light illumination wise. But so far it looks very good. I think I'll have to charge a bit more then 100 bucks to include all my labor etc. I'm thinking 150-200 but I'll keep it as low as possible but price will vary depending on if I have to include an electronic flasher to properly work the turn signals. Once I get my relays I should be getting my resistors at the same time. Then I'll have my first showcase taillight utilizing one of mine. I'm not sure what I should do for a proper durability test. I'm thinking of just making a wooden box and straping it in my truck and taking a couple long runs down a really bumpy gravel road.
I'll have to hold off pictures for now my testing equipment went on me. All I was using was a 120VAC to a 12VDC cigarette lighter plug and a power adapter from a cheap roatating becon lamp I had at home. So hopefully I can track down a better quality power supply and then I can properly test.
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Teach a child to be polite and courteous and, when he grows up, he'll never be able to merge his car onto the freeway. -98 Dodge Ram SS/T 5.9L auto all stock -92 Dodge Power Ram W250 5.9L CTD 5spd 4x4 -68 Dodge Dart GT 6cyl auto buckets console work in progress -46 Fargo
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MyCreation68
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ok picture time. hopefully these turned out well enough everyone can tell whats going on. I wired up a simple circuit to first test the lights, and second to guage the light output by my resistor calculations. It looks like I have everything figured out just have to start drilling holes for the led's in the plexiglass. Led's wired up and lighted: brighter set of 4 is how they'll light up when your on the brake pedal and the lighter is regular lighting.  Brake lights on behind stock 68 lense:  Regular indicators on behind 68 lense:  the led's arn't spaced correctly because of the fact I just solder'd them into a copper coated fiberglass board for wiring up simple circuits. when there done they will be spaced evenly and mounted with the LED body inside holes in plexiglass.
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Teach a child to be polite and courteous and, when he grows up, he'll never be able to merge his car onto the freeway. -98 Dodge Ram SS/T 5.9L auto all stock -92 Dodge Power Ram W250 5.9L CTD 5spd 4x4 -68 Dodge Dart GT 6cyl auto buckets console work in progress -46 Fargo
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golferjohn
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dude...you rock!! nice work, can't wait to see it all together
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MyCreation68
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twas nothing, I found out that the brake light resistor gets pretty hot as it's only 1/4W so I'll probably up that to 1/2W I'll set it up safely somewhere so I can leave it on for a couple days while it work on getting the completed assembly. Hopefully all goes well. The circuitry I'm doing mine from did his almost 4 years ago and their still working and he's from ontario so it should all work out. I've got about 5 pieces of about 3' x 3'(4 pieces) and 3' x 6' of plexiglass that I can use from an old terreium(sp?) that the better half had. so I'll get a jigsaw out and trim out the shape I need to make these work.
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Logged
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Teach a child to be polite and courteous and, when he grows up, he'll never be able to merge his car onto the freeway. -98 Dodge Ram SS/T 5.9L auto all stock -92 Dodge Power Ram W250 5.9L CTD 5spd 4x4 -68 Dodge Dart GT 6cyl auto buckets console work in progress -46 Fargo
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68_Val_Sedan
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the resitor gets hot because of how much power it is disapating a 1/2 watt will get just as hot... you might want to use a resistor for each led instead of 1 for the whole assembly that will keep the heat down plus it eliminates the single point of failure for the whole light assembly
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Logged
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67 dart 270 resto mod in progress ...
68 chrysler 300 wish it was my daily driver ...
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MyCreation68
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the resitor gets hot because of how much power it is disapating a 1/2 watt will get just as hot... you might want to use a resistor for each led instead of 1 for the whole assembly that will keep the heat down plus it eliminates the single point of failure for the whole light assembly
yeah I may switch it around at least on that side of the circuit I like the way it is right now but I'll have to adjust that one.
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Logged
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Teach a child to be polite and courteous and, when he grows up, he'll never be able to merge his car onto the freeway. -98 Dodge Ram SS/T 5.9L auto all stock -92 Dodge Power Ram W250 5.9L CTD 5spd 4x4 -68 Dodge Dart GT 6cyl auto buckets console work in progress -46 Fargo
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PureGTS
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For the LED tail lights on my 68, I used DOT approved Truck/trailer lights; the oval ones. I cut the lenses off and reshaped the "guts" to fit the tail light housings.
Do you recall the Grote part#? Thanx According to my records I used Grote PN - 6050 $18.97 in Jan 2007. It took 2 per side; one for the top section and one for the bottom. MyCreation68 isn't trying to gouge you for making them at $150+. Parts alone to do mine was over $80 just for prefab lamps to CUT UP. There's alot of time involved to do it without shorting it/them out and not getting the fool things to rattle around in there. Much less making them where they don't permanently mark, drill or otherwise damage the OEM wiring, lamps or housings. There have been some other models that are packed with more LED's than the 6050 model I used. They just weren't available when I did mine.  I've noticed that folks are attempting to make their own from scratch. Good Luck! I thought of doing the same thing but the cost for all the parts and the brain cell damage I'd accrue trying to reinvent something that already exhisted, was more than I was willing to suffer through. Remember, I have six kids,. I don't have a whole lot of brain cells to spare! Point of interest to those trying; take apart one of these, or a similar type, and reverse engineer the circuitry. In the 6050's I had they didn't bury the resistors in black epoxy or black resin, it was clear, but you will have to cut it open to get at it and read the resistors. Plus they were already DOT approved so effectively all I did was change the cover lenses not the lights themselves. It was just a matter of trimming and wiring. Happy lighting
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Knowldge is power, power is speed, speed is good, low E.T. is better
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MyCreation68
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For the LED tail lights on my 68, I used DOT approved Truck/trailer lights; the oval ones. I cut the lenses off and reshaped the "guts" to fit the tail light housings.
Do you recall the Grote part#? Thanx According to my records I used Grote PN - 6050 $18.97 in Jan 2007. It took 2 per side; one for the top section and one for the bottom. MyCreation68 isn't trying to gouge you for making them at $150+. Parts alone to do mine was over $80 just for prefab lamps to CUT UP. There's alot of time involved to do it without shorting it/them out and not getting the fool things to rattle around in there. Much less making them where they don't permanently mark, drill or otherwise damage the OEM wiring, lamps or housings. There have been some other models that are packed with more LED's than the 6050 model I used. They just weren't available when I did mine.  I've noticed that folks are attempting to make their own from scratch. Good Luck! I thought of doing the same thing but the cost for all the parts and the brain cell damage I'd accrue trying to reinvent something that already exhisted, was more than I was willing to suffer through. Remember, I have six kids,. I don't have a whole lot of brain cells to spare! Point of interest to those trying; take apart one of these, or a similar type, and reverse engineer the circuitry. In the 6050's I had they didn't bury the resistors in black epoxy or black resin, it was clear, but you will have to cut it open to get at it and read the resistors. Plus they were already DOT approved so effectively all I did was change the cover lenses not the lights themselves. It was just a matter of trimming and wiring. Happy lighting Thanks GTS yeah I can understand why you went the "simpler" way if I can really call it that, it's probably a pretty difficult thing that way to. I was thinking today while I was driving and was thinking I may have to complicate my own wiring because of the simple fact I want both sections of red to flash when the turn signal is on and it might be confusing the way I'm wiring the turn signals because the parking lights would still be on. I'm thinking I'll wire a SPDT relay between the turn signal circuit and the parking light/brake light circuit so when the turn signal is switched on the power from the turn signal being on will pull the switch to the opposite terminal and "steal" the power from the parking light circuit and turn the turn signal on to flash.
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Teach a child to be polite and courteous and, when he grows up, he'll never be able to merge his car onto the freeway. -98 Dodge Ram SS/T 5.9L auto all stock -92 Dodge Power Ram W250 5.9L CTD 5spd 4x4 -68 Dodge Dart GT 6cyl auto buckets console work in progress -46 Fargo
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MoPar_or _NoCar
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I had no feelings of being gouged, I'm the first to buy an item that has been road teted, proven for durability and utilized in multiple applications. I simply have a spare set of buckets and a 20% discount @ Napa and thought about doing this as well. I commend you "mycreation68" for investing so much time, energy and $ to engineer and develope a product that I'm certain many will purchase. Focus on keeping it contained in the bucket alone so that you can cover from 67-69 and you've got yourself a winner!
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That One Guy
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the buckets are different for each year though aren't they
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"I'm your Huckelberry" 
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