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Topic: adjusting valves with hydraulic cam (Read 322 times)
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grudd440
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hydraulic cam and roller rockers. what is the easiest way. which ones can i adjust on the first revolution of the crank. and after engine is turned 180 degrees?
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Logged
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eldubb440
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id do the exhaust valve about half way to the top of the compression stroke and just follow the firing order..........then the intakes about half way up the exhaust stroke.......make sure you spin the engine in the rite direction
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Logged
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Mopars, AMCs, and a pile of 440 Dart
You're all worthless and weak; now drop and give me twenty!
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grudd440
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if i were to start at top dead center of the compression stroke and set the valves on #1 cylinder, then turn the motor and set #8?
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eldubb440
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if i were to start at top dead center of the compression stroke and set the valves on #1 cylinder, then turn the motor and set #8?
ya wanna make sure the lifters are completely on the heel of the cam......id think if #1 exhaust is in position, #6 intake should be also...and so on; .....im sure others have a may have a different technique, but it works for me.
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Mopars, AMCs, and a pile of 440 Dart
You're all worthless and weak; now drop and give me twenty!
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grudd440
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on my brothers chevy, he has a book that tells him all of the intakes and exhaust valves u can do at one time. it makes things easy.
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lucasdart
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I just do it one cylinder at a time. It's a little more turning the motor over, but it's pretty fail proof. Just spin to where the intake is rising and almost at the peak lift, then do the exhaust. Then spin it over a rev or two then when the exhaust is almost at the peak, do the intake. It's never failed me before. I have a trigger that you hook to the starter so you don't have to crank with a ratchet.
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ksdartguy
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Dont know how well you can read it but here is mopar sticker that shows valves and rotation.
Rick
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Logged
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69 Swinger, 400/499, ported Stealth heads, Crower 262/266d, .686/.696L roller,11 to 1, 950 Bigs, E85 carb
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grudd440
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cool, im going to go adjust them now.
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satellite65
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Dont know how well you can read it but here is mopar sticker that shows valves and rotation.
Rick
THANK YOU!!!! I've been looking all over the place for that. I know I had one of those laying around here somwhere.
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dusterdarryl
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dont forget big and small blocks have opposite rotating dizzys, bbs are anticlockwise
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Logged
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Shift as hard as you like, just dont break your arm... (George Hurst)
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grudd440
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i adjusted the valves as per the mopar chart and per the crane cams recomendations. i adjusted them 1/2 turn past zero, but had no compression  . i then set the valves at zero and it fired up  and proceeded to break in the cam. has anyone heard of this?
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mopowers
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Sounds like you adjustde them too much much and the valves weren't closing. remember- vero lash just means no play. It's possible that you colapsed the lifters and gave it 1/2 turn more.
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Logged
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66 Dart GT: BB project. shooting for high 10's 2006 Dakota 
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eldubb440
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tighten till they just start to collapse the lifter.....then 1/2 turn
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Logged
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Mopars, AMCs, and a pile of 440 Dart
You're all worthless and weak; now drop and give me twenty!
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fishy68
Jr. Member

Offline
Posts: 41
BigBlockDart.Com
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Sometimes the lifters get hydra locked also so even when you adjust them right they hold the valves open for a little while until they bleed down. I had that happen on a Chevy V6 in a forklift once. Had to pull the heads to have them rebuilt and when I put it back together it didn't have any compression on 5 cylinders. Don't ask me why one cyl. had compression??? They were non adjustable valves BTW. After I cranked it over awhile cylinders started coming alive. Finally I got 4 cylinders to fire enough to start and within about 2 minutes the other lifters bled down and it hit on all 6. Here's a link to a page on Moparts that has the valve adjusting chart. http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/motor/14.html
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coors00
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Spin the pushrod with your fingers as you tighten. When the spin stops, it is at 0 lash; then pre-load.
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