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Topic: vacuum advance locking?? (Read 119 times)
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1971scamp383
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how do you lock the vacuum advance on the distributor???(mopar performance electronic conversion with orange box)...with an alen key in the vacuum port???dou you tight it until it stops turning???...i just want some help on this thanks!!!!...and also....when the advance is locked.....i just have to put the timing at 36 degrees...and thats it??? thanks(383 .030 over...stock forged crank polish and new bearing....edelbrock double roller timming chain...edelbrock torquer aluminium intake(i know ...but hood clearance issue but not clearing with the spacer anyway )....2'' 4 holes phelonic carb spacer.....comp cams xe274.....edelbrock 750 cfm performer series....mopar performance distributor kit with orange box....taylor 8mm plugs wires....full length hedman headers 1 3/4 ..3'' out....440source aluminium heads(2.14 1.81 )....keith black dome pistons..(6cc dome)...10.1cr right now.....2500 torque stall(stall at 2900 rpm)...freshly rebuilt 727 with b&m transkit(shift kit)...3.91 rear gear with locker lock right) thanks all
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on the build....1971 plymouth scamp 383...
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bOb shingler
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just put a cap on it and one on the timed port on the primary metering block is the easiest.
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"bOb Built" (no matter how many times it takes) 
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Winter
Jr. Member

Offline
Posts: 63
BigBlockDart.Com
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Counter clockwise 4.5 turns will lock it. 1.5ccw is normal but may be to loose for high compression, so I've used 2.5 ccw on the street to lower the temperature. I think locking is better than plugging, because the base plate is held tight by the vacuum advance, so vibrations are dampened. The old tack drive mopar dist. boasted the lack of a vacuum advance, stabilized it. The Proform centerbody replacement for a Holley 3310 Vacuum Secondary 750 to 800 CFM, will kill that vacuum advance port on the idle block, so there's no need to plug it. "dou you tight it until it stops turning???." YES!
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