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Topic: Need Help Putting My Flaming River Coupler On (Read 462 times)
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67Satty
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Actually, that part seems pretty straightforward, what I really need help with is getting the factory roll pin? steering shaft pivot pin? off - whatever it is you see in this picture:  I need to get it out so I can proceed with the installation of the Flaming River power to manual steering adapter and coupler kit. I called Flaming River's tech line and all the advice I got was to keep beating on it with a hammer. I've gotten no where with that so far. Any tricks to getting this thing out? I've tried soaking it in PB Blaster overnight. Should I try heating it up? Do I need to take the whole column shaft out of the car to deal with it? 
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Logged
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In the garage: '67 Plymouth Satellite - once my 318-powered daily driver, now my project car with lots of "patina"
On the stand: "Old School" '71 440 build: "6 Pack" pistons at zero deck, Engle .534, 238@.050" Hyd, stock 452s, Performer RPM, 850 DP, Hooker headers. Still need: ignition, gears
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ksdartguy
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I would pull the column. Then you can support the shaft. If a hammer wont move it, you can go to a press.
Rick
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Logged
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69 Swinger,3.54 Dana, 400/499, Stealth heads, Crower 262/266d, .686/.696L roller,11 to 1, 950 Bigs, E85 carb. Best so far, 10.82 @ 124mph through the mufflers.
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west
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when you get it out how are you going to attatch the shaft to the coupler?
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67Satty
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The Flaming River kit comes with a new pin to tap in there.
OK, looks like my next step is to take the column out. Has anyone been able to do it without pulling the whole column?
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Logged
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In the garage: '67 Plymouth Satellite - once my 318-powered daily driver, now my project car with lots of "patina"
On the stand: "Old School" '71 440 build: "6 Pack" pistons at zero deck, Engle .534, 238@.050" Hyd, stock 452s, Performer RPM, 850 DP, Hooker headers. Still need: ignition, gears
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b569rr
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The Flaming River kit comes with a new pin to tap in there.
OK, looks like my next step is to take the column out. Has anyone been able to do it without pulling the whole column?
I got it out with the column in the car. Get a drift pin the same diameter as the roll pin. Now here is why you want to take the column out. When I hammered the pin with out supporting the shaft, I ruined the bearing assembly. Little ball bearings on the floor. ![\/][](http://www.bigblockdart.com/Smileys/classic/finger020.gif)
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Bill_Reilly
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In the shop here, I don't even hesitate - just pop the column out, only takes 5 minutes. I have someone hold the column flat, and I just push the pin out with a vice - use a small socket and a little bolt to push the pin right out. It's the fastest, non-damaging way to do it.
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Logged
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Those who say it can't be done, should not interrupt those of us who are doing it.
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67Satty
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Cool! Thanks for the picture, that helps a lot!
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Logged
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In the garage: '67 Plymouth Satellite - once my 318-powered daily driver, now my project car with lots of "patina"
On the stand: "Old School" '71 440 build: "6 Pack" pistons at zero deck, Engle .534, 238@.050" Hyd, stock 452s, Performer RPM, 850 DP, Hooker headers. Still need: ignition, gears
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abodyjoe
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that stupid pin was the worst part of installing my alter-k.
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satellite65
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Does the Flaming River coupler make a big differance in steering feel?
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CudaDon65
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I agree with Joe on that  ..did like Bill but I used my shop press to get it out. I put the new coupler on and pressed the pin in before I put the column back in. 
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lucasdart
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I was able to get mine out without pulling the column. I remember it being tight. If I remember right the slip coupler was still on mine. Did you cut your's off? I just found a punch that fit just right on the pin and beat like hell.  Good Luck!!
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67Satty
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OK, I got the pin out. I took it to a friend's garage and he had a press that made quick work of it. Now, I'm at the stage of putting my column back in and taking measurements before cutting it to size. Working on this thing is a crack-up. There is quite a bit of lee-way with how the column can be put back in since there are oval slots from the factory for locating it as far as how far back or forward you put it. Not exactly a precision piece of machinery. I don't know why I was stressing out so much about it.
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Logged
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In the garage: '67 Plymouth Satellite - once my 318-powered daily driver, now my project car with lots of "patina"
On the stand: "Old School" '71 440 build: "6 Pack" pistons at zero deck, Engle .534, 238@.050" Hyd, stock 452s, Performer RPM, 850 DP, Hooker headers. Still need: ignition, gears
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67dartgt
Full Member
 
Offline
Posts: 356
BigBlockDart.Com
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Does the Flaming River coupler make a big differance in steering feel?
Depends. Since he's doing a power to manual steering conversion (at least that sounds like what he's doing) it's definitely going to change the feel. But it's not just the coupler that's doing it for him. I did the flaming river power to manual conversion with the flaming river box and coupler. I LOVE it compared to the power setup. And I even have little weakling arms. 
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MVRCorp
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IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER YOU HAVE AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
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west
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sounds like you dont drive your car every day 67dartgt
manual steering sucks when your trying to manuaver in a parking lot with a heavy bigblock under the hood
i have manual steering and i have no problems. you just need to be rolling a little when turning the wheel.
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67Satty
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Well, this thing is just going to be a cruiser and dragstrip toy, so I'm not going to be parallel parking on a regular basis. I used to have a '65 Coronet 4-door with manual steering that was my daily driver and I don't remember it being a big deal. And that car I did have to parallel park every day since I lived in an apartment at the time that only had street parking.
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Logged
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In the garage: '67 Plymouth Satellite - once my 318-powered daily driver, now my project car with lots of "patina"
On the stand: "Old School" '71 440 build: "6 Pack" pistons at zero deck, Engle .534, 238@.050" Hyd, stock 452s, Performer RPM, 850 DP, Hooker headers. Still need: ignition, gears
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