Alignment / Suspension Question

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December 04, 2008, 08:32:13 PM

This weekend I was tweaking a few things on my dart and had some interesting results.

The left front had been riding a bit high, and the right rear a bit low since I got the car. It also had major negative camber on both sides. So much negative camber that you could easily see it, and the inside of each front tire was worn off to prove it.

I adjusted the left front down a bit to equalize the ride height up front. As a result the right rear came up. The only other adjustment I made was to center up the steering wheel by using equal adjustments on the tie rod adjusters. Now, the camber looks to be neutral? What is up with that?

Would turning down the left front torsion bar approx 1 inch have that much affect on camber? If not, how would the tie rod adjustment do it?? I can't see that happening.

On another note the car still has a wicked pull to the left. I was thinking of trying a "home thrust angle alignment" on it. Not that I have quite figured out how I will do this, but I think I can get pretty close. I'll probably have to recruit one of my fiance's kids to sit in the car and hold the wheel straight while I adjust things Grin

But I'll make it worth their while

Wanna hear the craziest thing I've ever seen with alignment? Once, I replaced all the bushings and ball joints on my Charger. I put it on my flatbed to take it to the alignment shop. I drove it up there, they had already left and I wasn't going to leave it outside, so I took it back to my shop. I had left the upper control arm cams loose, but after riding the car around on the flatbed, they settled into place, like just fell in, so I snugged them up. The next day, at the alignment shop, the guy told me I did a great job of roughing everything in. He just had to set the toe. I was like, thanks, glad you liked it.

Car rode great, tracked straight.

Get the ride height correct (sounds like you already did that). Then set both front cam adjusters all the way OUT and the rears all the way IN. Adjust the rear cams OUT until the camber is in spec (ideally 1/4 to 1/2 degree negative). This will provide the greatest positive caster that your car with the current parts can provide. Set the toe (1/16 to 1/32" toe-IN). If you still have a pull, make sure it isn't brake related and make small caster adjustments to compensate.

Quote from: Jim_Lusk on July 28, 2008, 11:09:17 PM

Jim, Good info. Couple of questions

Last night I was reading my FSM and I thought I remembered the settings being 1/2* positive passenger side and 3/4* positive driver side for camber settings. (could be b/c my head was fuzzy, it was late!

) I have heard that a little negative camber is good for handling though. Is this the reason for the neg camber?

Also, the positive caster seems to jibe with the set up in the FSM with power steering. Is there a way to measure caster at home?

I still have to check my ride height as I was measuring from the top of the wheel wells. I want to see if this jibes with the factory method of taking the measurments off of the lower b-joint and torsion bar socket.

I understand how to set toe in at home. The thing i am wondering about is thrust angle. If the rear is cocked even a little bit, and I set the toe in up front independent of what the rear end may be doing, wouldn't there still be a pull in the steering? Or wouldn't the car move down the road crablegged? Or am I thinking too much!!!

When I worked in the shop we always centered the wheel and aligned the fronts using the rear wheels for reference. Beyond that I am a babe in the woods. So thanks for bearing with me here! $\/][$

Eventually I have to get some new rear springs too as this puppy is sagging a bit. I can't find a ride height spec in the FSM for the rear end. Only a method of measuring side to side differential ride height. Is there a spec for rear end ride height?

Thank you!!!!

CE

The factory way to measure ride height is the take the difference between the floor and the lower ball joint and the floor and the lower control arm at the pivot. This is a method that I just don't like. I usually measure from the frame rail to the floor and equalize it side-to-side with about an inch between the LCA bumper and frame. Yes, the negative camber is to help with handling.

As for measuring caster at home. I have a $40 alignment tool that shows how to measure it. I think I got it from Racer's Warehouse (or something like that).

bill used to carry alignment guages