Torsioned bar alter K?

[CudaSRT8]

Bill,
I've seen a couple of mag. articles giving Matt Delaney credit for designing a tortion bar front end like this.   What the?   Is HE taking credit for something YOU have done?   Get out there dude.   Get the credit where credit is due!   

[Bill_Reilly]

 Don't worry - I have a handle on it...

[abodyjoe]

looks even better in person

[Bill_Reilly]

I'll have to show Bud this pic. I doubt he remembers you took it.

[abodyjoe]

..  he jumped in just as the camera was snapping the pic..

[Bill_Reilly]

1/2"? Like 0.5"? Or 1-2"?   The lowest you could go, with a 26" tire, would be 2-3" - this measurement is the bottom of the k frame to the ground. If you have smaller tires, subtract the difference. A 24" tire would drop it another inch...

[NYrr496]

Bill, without trying to be too long winded, I've also decided to not build a run of the mill street strip car out of my roadrunner.   I want the car to be streetable, yet get crazy when asked.   The plan is to go to the concrete mile on the East coast and try to get into the 200 MPH club and do a Power Tour.   It'll have a stroked big block, six speed, dana, probably FAST EFI, maybe twin turbos. Depends how quickly the build gets underway.   My question is I was originally going to use the stock K frame with your strut rods and upper A arms with AR Engineering's Viper brake kit and I was undecided what rear suspension to use.
  I finally decided I was going to use the original AlterKtion and either the Street Lynx or a similar 4 bar setup from Morrison. NOW I see this kit. What's your opinion for THE most streetable setup?

Actually, the best do it all setup?

[Bill_Reilly]

Well the alterktion will certainly do the job, however there would be a bit of a compromise. At 200, it would work fine if set up for it with stiffer springs, but it would be a bit a bit rough and twitchy. At the same time, the ride quality would be a bit rough because of needing the stiffer springs to handle the high speeds.
  The T system, with the special shocks and tbars, will easily handle 200 and still have a smooth ride. The power tour crowd would see the most gain from it - high speed trials, long interstate runs, occasional drag strip and/or autox use.
  Primarily with suspension, it's easy to make something for one particular use, but it suffers out of it's element. The big trick is to get a design that's well behaved on the street, but still shines in road course and strip use - obviously none of us want to change parts for each use, but we all want maximum performance no matter what we try to do with the car. After obsessing over suspension this many years, I can't find any aspect of the T system that should be refined further. Excellent geometry with no flexing, 6.25" of wheel travel makes for a glass-smooth ride along with a nice turning radius, the longer travel will work excellent on the strip, especially with a 4-bar in the back, and the Tbars with T2 shocks will easily control wheel motion at extreme speeds. The narrower track makes life easier with wheels, and no cutting on the car makes it an easy deal to do at home.

If you took one of these, you could actually spend a day testing each use - drag/autox/street comfort. Take note of the shock settings that worked best for each. After that, you could set the shocks as needed and perform great right off the trailer...or right off main st as the case may be

[NYrr496]

Yeah, I understand I would have to swap springs and shock settings to do a particular task, it's silly to expect one part to do it all.   I really should have asked which system is MOST flexible, but you already seem to have answered that question.  How long are the T bars in that setup? Is the adjustment arm made of aluminum?

[Bill_Reilly]

Yea, the T is far more flexible - no spring changes needed regardless of the use. The bars are 22.5", custom diameters, and the links are steel. You can buy aluminum links in the short track catalogs, but we got them to fail. So we came up with our own designs out of larger sized billet steel. In the future, I may mill reliefs into the link arms, kinda like connecting rods, but it would only be to look a little nicer. I want to test some first to see how much can be cut without killing the strength.

[NYrr496]

No, I'm glad they're steel. just asking.

[Mopartist]

Holy smokes! That is a feat of awesome engineering!    Beautiful work

[MoparCar]

Oh they're definitely for sale. The pricing is steep though(6995), and not much I can do about it. It's just alot of expensive stuff. But it's what I wanted to do, as the no-compromise system that has no flaws. So there will always be the alterktion, and for those who want to pull out the stops, the T system. You could say "standard" or "premium".

This of course opens the door to perfect the rear suspension line up in a similar manner...more late night fun

Is this the rear independant Viper center section torsion bar suspension that you might be working on....at least that's what I saw in a magazine.. Any info?
Thanks,

[Bill_Reilly]

That was a one-time, well two-time custom. The yellow Challlenger got one and the goodmark cuda got one. That's it. Initially I planned on making kits like that, but the crap was so expensive to build, I would've had to charge 12k for one - I just had no interest in doing more of that design.

[MoparCar]

So what is that perfect rear suspension line up..........   

[Joe-Dokes]

Gee Bill, not only are you a great designer and engineer but your also a great salesman.

Your response to NYrr496 made it sound like it's better than sliced bread. 

I don't know if I will ever be able to afford this, but let me say, I want one.

Regards

Joe Dokes

[VTI]

Bill, I am sure glad you are a mopar guy. I will have to save up for your new front end,but will get one, one day. Thank you for designing these parts for us.

[ValiantOne]

Gee Bill, not only are you a great designer and engineer but your also a great salesman.

Your response to NYrr496 made it sound like it's better than sliced bread. 

I don't know if I will ever be able to afford this, but let me say, I want one.

Regards

Joe Dokes

Yeah no kidding. I totally want one!!! 

CE

[TrxR]

Now does the torsion bars mount into the factory locations on the car? Also when trying to lower the car are you going to loose tension on the t bars?

Thanks

[Bill_Reilly]

T-bars are inside our subframe, and are unrelated to the factory ones.  Tension on the bars is always the same when the weight is on them - they only see pounds, regardless of the height adjustment.

[Blue]

Cool, I like that a lot! would I be right in thinking it weights more than the coil over AlterK?

[DarrenM]

I'm curious, if those T bars have to come out.....for whatever reason........does the frame have to come out as well?

[Bill_Reilly]

No, it can stay in. Just remove the adjuster and end link and the bars slide out the back - they clear the floor of the car.
  It's only about 10 lbs heavier than the coil-over unit, so it still saves like 70-90lbs.

[DarrenM]

Fantastic.  Looks very nice.  I'm going with the "standard" version for now.......

No, it can stay in. Just remove the adjuster and end link and the bars slide out the back - they clear the floor of the car.
  It's only about 10 lbs heavier than the coil-over unit, so it still saves like 70-90lbs.

[therocks]

Saw it at Columbus.It looks awesome.If my 65 was better Id put one in it.One sweet looking piece.Rocky