MY ENGINE BOGS DOWN IN GEAR. HELP SOS

[south tex mopar]

throttle linkage, i dont have one. Only a throttle cable, and i only shift it manually. If i just put it in drive the gears go in super early. Is the linkage nessesary? Didnt think id need it if i shifted manually.

[bOb shingler]

heres a pic of it

  could you tell me how much clearance is between the fan blades and the radiator?

[pwmax]

Sounds ignition related to me. For one, the way your wires are zipp tied together, doesn;t help, do you have a rev limiter in there? What ignition box? You can try twisting the wires coming out of the distributor, and electtical tape them so they don;t un-wind. But it definately sounds to be electrical. Valve srpings won;t cause it to not rev beyond 2800, I don;t care how weak they are. Even a totaly wore out stock spring at 70lbs on the seat, will let it rev beyond 2800.

Its definately electrical.

Frank

[speedymopars]

Im going to try and explain in more specifics. First the motor will not rev over 2,800 rpm PERIOD... Shouldnt it be able to rev much higher in any gear? i thought i should shift at about 3,500. Well it wont ever. lets say i start the car, starts right up, and idles perfect,  in park if i put the pedal to the floor , it will only rev to 2,800 NO more. Sometimes  not always boging at 2,800 in park. Put in gear drives fine till it gets to 2,800 in first then it bogs down. So i let my foot out of it 2 or 3 seconds, till it goes down to about 2,600. Now i can shift to second. Same  story goes for second to third. Also at high rpm in 3rd it sounds like a light popping puttering sound.  If i always shift be that rpm range there are no symtoms.

This is always helpful when you are explaining a problem. Bogging at 2800 and not being able to rev past 2800, are two totally different problems.

Please stop using the term bogging / bogs - this is not what you are experiancing and will throw off anyone trying to help you. A bog is when it has too much fuel, and the engine loads up causeing acceleration to slow. In you case, if I'm reading this right, is that you engine will not rev past 2600-2800 RPMs no matter what you do.

What I am aslo reading is you are not moving, and you wing the throttle in gear, it stays at 2600-2800 and goes no further. If that is the case, you have found your torque convertor stall speed and this is normal.

However, if I am not reading this correctly, and you are moving when you are doing this, the limit can come from several things:
1) rev limiter. Do you have one on an MSD box, a rev limiting tach, etc? I had a mallory rev limiting that died and kept the engine from going above above 4000 rpm even though it was set to 7K. Disable it or disconnect it. Don't forget that to a tach a 4cyl tach set to 6000 rpm is the same as a V8 at 3K.

2) coil problems - if you have the incorrect coil (a resistive coil when you don't need one or vice versa, a CD coil with an inductive ignition), or too low of voltage to your coil (IE 3 volts) then the loading of the ignition at higher rpm's could cause the spark to disappear. This can be made worse with a bad (or incorectly) set of plugs, wires, distributor.

3) Timing way off. If your distributor is set at the wrong initial advance, it is possible that when your advance plates kick in the timing gets so far off the engine won't run any more. It is also possible that somehting is shorting out, or the magnetic pickup / points have issues. If the point springs are worn out (on a point system obviously), they could be hanging open at that rpm also preventing a spark.

4) Fuel delivery. I ran in the 12's with a 5/16th line and 7 psi - so don't worry about fuel line size now. However, look at your fuel pressure (drag a gauge in and see what you have). It should be no less than 5 PSI no matter what you are doing. If it is, look at a fuel filter clogging issue as flow will be affected at RPM, but not at idle most of the time.  BTW - those clear glass filters don't flow worth a damn, I kept running out of fuel in my jet boat at 3800 rpm, it turned out to be the new glass filter I put on.

[B.B.D.of Corpus.]

what kinda ignition cotrol r u using msd or mopar chrome or orange box? thnx for the better discription of the prob.it sounds like an ignition box or a bad connection.if so check ballast resistor and connection at firewall and make sure u have a good and more than 1 ground wires. batt to motor motor to fire wall with clean metal to metal contacts.

[south tex mopar]

heres a pic of it

  could you tell me how much clearance is between the fan blades and the radiator?
Therses about 2 iches of clearance.

[south tex mopar]

Sounds ignition related to me. For one, the way your wires are zipp tied together, doesn;t help, do you have a rev limiter in there? What ignition box? You can try twisting the wires coming out of the distributor, and electtical tape them so they don;t un-wind. But it definately sounds to be electrical. Valve srpings won;t cause it to not rev beyond 2800, I don;t care how weak they are. Even a totaly wore out stock spring at 70lbs on the seat, will let it rev beyond 2800.

Its definately electrical.

Frank
No rev limiter,and its the mopar blue box. The only thing msd is the coil.

[speedymopars]

What is a Mopar blue box? Never heard of that one before.

[south tex mopar]

Summit SUM-850018

[satellite65]

Probably Summits replacement for the orange box. Unless there's something SERIUOSLY wrong wih the box it's not the problem. Not reving past 2800 RPM is a major problem and the cause of it is something that will probably jump out at you when you look at it from the right angle. Check all the obvious stuff and BE PATIENT. When you're aggravated your mind plays tricks on you. Drink lots of Jack Daniels and then go back to it. Bet you find your problem .

Remember- Ignition first, then Carburetor.

[south tex mopar]

Ok my next move will be an msd setup.  Distributor, coil ,msd 6a box.  Thank all of you very much. Hopefullly it works out,and i will be letting big block dart know my results.

[satellite65]

You can solve any problem by simply throwing money at it. Try to find the root cause of the problem rather than replacing everything. You would be pissed if you spent $1000.00 on all new ignition parts only to find that it was a $15.00 part all along. Could even be a loose connection. Cost to repair?  $0.00.
Just my opinion.

[Dodgeboy]

I have seen symptoms like what your are describing with a stopped up exhaust system. Check your exhaust before spending a bunch of money on ignitions or other stuff.

Roger

[south tex mopar]

You can solve any problem by simply throwing money at it. Try to find the root cause of the problem rather than replacing everything. You would be pissed if you spent $1000.00 on all new ignition parts only to find that it was a $15.00 part all along. Could even be a loose connection. Cost to repair? $0.00.
Just my opinion.
Yea, your right im just going to replace the  ignition box and ignition relay first, and look for loose wires.

[bOb shingler]

Summit SUM-850018

   that's a stock box you need at least a real orange box, also what kind of plug wires do you have?

[south tex mopar]

The wires are mopar performance part P4529792

[bOb shingler]

ok they are carbon core suspression wires, possibly the worst wires you can put on the motor with a hot ignition box but i still don't think that's your problem. once again you should be looking at the valve springs. ok you've checked and recheck everything BUT your valve springs that don't match your cam.    i guess you didn't realize how important it is to have the correct valve springs for the cam. 

[speedymopars]

Summit SUM-850018

 Do you have another box, even stock one that you can just throw on?


I am trying to think of the senario where the valvesprings will hard limit the RPM. When you say they are the wrong springs, what do you mean exactly? Not enough presssure? Too much? seat? Open? Off by how much?

If they are too weak, then the valves stay open (float), which would limit RPM - but usually much higher than 2800.
Too strong and you either wipe out the cam lobe and/or keep the hyd lifter(S) collapsed, causing the valve to stay closed or barely open. In thinking about it, if the vavle was barely opening, that would limit the rpm because you couldn't get the airflow into the chambers.

Doesn't explain why it worked before though -and becuase the problem would have happened from first startup, makes me think it is electrical. 

[speedymopars]

Start the car.

Keep it in park.

Hit the throttle. Can it hit 4000 RPM?

If yes -
What is your oil pressure at 4K?
Any noises?
Smooth?

If No
where does it stop?
Does it feel rough?
Make any sounds?

[SRT440DUSTER]

Is the gas tank properly vented? I had a brain fart and never installed one on my fuelcell. Creates a vacuum in the tank.

[south tex mopar]

Summit SUM-850018

 Do you have another box, even stock one that you can just throw on?


I am trying to think of the senario where the valvesprings will hard limit the RPM. When you say they are the wrong springs, what do you mean exactly? Not enough presssure? Too much? seat? Open? Off by how much?

If they are too weak, then the valves stay open (float), which would limit RPM - but usually much higher than 2800.
Too strong and you either wipe out the cam lobe and/or keep the hyd lifter(S) collapsed, causing the valve to stay closed or barely open. In thinking about it, if the vavle was barely opening, that would limit the rpm because you couldn't get the airflow into the chambers.

Doesn't explain why it worked before though -and becuase the problem would have happened from first startup, makes me think it is electrical. 
I believe the springs to be to weak, as i put a bigger cam and never changed the springs.

[south tex mopar]

Start the car.

Keep it in park.

Hit the throttle. Can it hit 4000 RPM?

If yes -
What is your oil pressure at 4K?
Any noises?
Smooth?

If No
where does it stop?
Does it feel rough?
Make any sounds?













Doing exactly as you say, in park with the pedal to the floor it stops reving at 2,800 rpm. Sounds like something is stoping it from reving any higher.

[south tex mopar]

Stall converter?

[speedymopars]

Park eliminates the convertor.

Unless you went from hyd cam to a solid roller, I doubt the springs would start valve float at 2800 RPM. And if that is the case, you need to change your lifters and cam becuase they are surely damaged by now. You can't float a solid roller without some damage happening. 10-30 lbs on the spring pressure either way aren't going to cause these issues. Solid roller springs are hundreds of pounds difference.

If it's a plug or ignition wires that would kill one cylinder or maybe two, but it would still rev in neutral and it would be worse under load. Assuming the plug wires are correct with 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 firing order.

The fact it idles nice is a tip off.

How does it run at 2400-2600? Smooth? Rough? Firing on all 8?

If it is smooth, my bet is on the box being bad or wiring (not enough voltage). did you put a volt meter on it?

[south tex mopar]

No, its a hyd cam and i also changed the lifters. I dont have a volt meter on it. One other thing to mention would be, last night i noticed that the headlights brighten when i rev the motor. Makes me more assured it has to be electrical.  Im going to pick up a new box tomorrow. A buddy has a new one layin around his shop.

[guzzimike]

Double check your GROUNDING...

[south tex mopar]

It has plenty of ground. Made sure of that.

[FastmOp]

does it havd a 3 grand chip in the MSD?

[496dart]

what  a thread.....


im sticking to  a weird  ignition  problem


it aint fuel.

im guessing  the ecu  or  advance  prob  in the   dist,



place your bets..................   

[south tex mopar]

does it havd a 3 grand chip in the MSD?
Huh, i dont get it 3 grand what?