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Topic: Guage wiring question (Read 186 times)
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bwells
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When I first got my car, the only guage in the dash that worked was the fuel level, and now that stopped working. I read an article in an old Mopar Muscle that said the connectors would corrode, and cause a bad contact. They fixed them with a dab of solder at the connectors, and I'm wondering if this would work for my guages. They had a different dash, but I figured they would be about the same. Also, my speedo used to bounce around randomly from 0 up to about 35, but now that's stopped working as well, along with the odometer. Could both of these problems be caused by the cable? And how difficult would it be to get the guage panel out?
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Logged
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sunsetdart
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Taking out the cluster is a matter of removing all the screws you can see. As far as the speedo is concerned, just reach up in the back and find the knurled big end of the speedo, and loosen it up. When you get it off, you can pull out the broken piecs of cable, but will have to take the other part off at the trans.
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Logged
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Dart67
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Here are some links to look at that might help. http://www.geocities.com/pdq340/regulator/index.htmhttp://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical2.htmlhttp://www.moparfins.com/repairs/Fuel_Gauge_Repair/Fuel_Gauge_Repair.htmThe speedometer problem is more than likely a broken cable like sunsetdart said. The fuel gauge could be a bad gauage. Test by un-plugging the wire from the tank sender and hooking the wire to a GOOD CLEAN ground, the gauge should go to FULL or more, if it does the guage is good and the sender in the tank is bad. Make SURE that the ground strap from the fuel line to the tank sender inlet is in place, or the gauge wont work, the tank needs to have a ground for the guage to work. You can test the temp and oil light/gauge(s) the same as the fuel sender, by unpluging the wire to each and going to ground, they should read all the way or light if working. It could also be the voltage regulator on the back of the cluster. The little three legged metal can. Herb |
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Logged
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 My 67 GT Convertible 340 mope's 67 Race Dart My 67 270 Hardtop  |
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bwells
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 I think I'll pull it out tonight. Hopefully the gremlins aren't too tough to find...
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Logged
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bwells
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Tried pulling it out tonight. I took out all the screws, went to pull the speedo cable, and it was already out. The gauge cluster moved out about 1/4 inch, then stopped. I pulled the radio out, took the steering wheel and tach off, and unbolted the bracket that holds the steering column up. Still no luck. The big box that the speedo cable plugs into is too big to get the cluster out. I put everything back together for now, but is there an easier way of getting it out, without pulling the whole column? I did manage to get my tach light working again, but now the tach isn't reading accurately. Says I idle between 1000 and 2000, randomly bouncing. And I tweaked my shift linkage somehow. Now when my shifter's in park, the tranny's in reverse...  I'll have to play with that tomorrow. I'm pretty sure that the fuel sender is good. It's only about a year and a half old, and it worked fine a year ago when I blew my motor. |
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Logged
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fourspeed
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Put the shift lever in 1st, unscrew the 3 nuts holding the column up, it should drop low enough to angle the dash panel and sneak it out. The bottom comes out slightly, then tip the insert out. At least, that's what I did.
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Logged
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bwells
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I tried that, but it didn't work. The column only dropped an inch or two, and with the shifter in first, and the steering wheel and tach off there still wasn't enough room. I'm just going to wait until this winter. I'm going to rewire the whole car and put in new gauges after the summer shows. I'd have to deal with it then anyway, so I'll hold off on it for now.
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Logged
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dash small.JPG
