Pages: [1]
|
 |
|
Author
|
Topic: Fel pro 17059 marine gaskets - retorque? (Read 113 times)
|
|
speedymopars
|
I'm trying to figure out where I went wrong with my boat engine - I blew a head gasket and all 4 cylinders were obviously leaking. Fel pro site gives no useful information, just curious if I A) Over horsepowered the gaskets - The fel pro site lists this as a 330 HP 440 application. B) Didn't do a required re torque (most head gaskets don't need it anymore, I just kinda assumed these didn't either - but I do notice the listing for them doesn't have a name like permatorque or the bold statement these don't need a retorque. C) The phone rag, I drank too much beer, the wrench messed up, the torque wrench operator (me) set it to the wrong setting, etc/
I will say when I popped the heads off, no prying was required. It came off like it was never installed, even after 21 hours of use. I am running ARP head studs so I don't think the bolts not holding was an issue. I did deck the block and heads before assembly.
I am surfacing the left head at the moment, as the left side is apart.
Compression on left head 1 3 5 7
150 90 150 150
Right head 2 4 6 8
180 180 180 175
I can either A) buy a new 17059 gasket and re install and retorque both sides B) switch to a different head gasket like the 1009 and do both sides.
I am using iron heads. What do you all think?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
70 Duster - Keith Black 526, 2 x 830 annulars/tunnel ram, big solid roller, 727 ProTrans, Strange 4.30s
77 440 Dodge van 12.96 @ 108 - 4800 lbs of love with a 2.72 peg leg and 1800 stall
74 cheyenne 452 stroker, 2x450's on a tunnel ram, 21 foot, Berkeley jet, place diverter
|
|
|
|
NYrr496
|
I've used those gaskets in a 440 that dyno'd at 545 horses. Here's how you should re torque them. Torque each bolt/ stud in sequence in three steps. Then go through the entire torque sequence one bolt at a time. Break #1 with a breaker bar while leaving all the others torqued, torque it to spec. What's going to happen here is with all the others torqued down, each one that you break and re torque will actually turn a little further down, so it will actually have increased clamping force with the same torque spec. Then break #2, re torque, #3 and so on and so on.
For a reference, mark one corner of the nut with a paint marker and watch where it ends up. This is real time consuming, it goes faster if you have a friend work the breaker bar and you man the torque wrench.
BTW, these are the grey silicone gaskets, right?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
It takes a Mopar to catch a Mopar.
|
|
|
|
speedymopars
|
Yep - thanks!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
70 Duster - Keith Black 526, 2 x 830 annulars/tunnel ram, big solid roller, 727 ProTrans, Strange 4.30s
77 440 Dodge van 12.96 @ 108 - 4800 lbs of love with a 2.72 peg leg and 1800 stall
74 cheyenne 452 stroker, 2x450's on a tunnel ram, 21 foot, Berkeley jet, place diverter
|
|
|
|
ksdartguy
|
Something to consider with the need for retorque might be the engine temps. Being a boat and cool water flowing maybe there is a little more thermal expansion going on. IMHO
Rick
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
69 Swinger,3.54 Dana, 400/499, Stealth heads, Crower 262/266d, .686/.696L roller,11 to 1, 950 Bigs, E85 carb. Best so far, 10.82 @ 124mph through the mufflers.
|
|
|
|
Pages: [1]
|
|
|
 |