Cutting up

[VTI]

Started the cutting two weeks ago and now starting to put it all back together.

[rjsjea]

Cool......from the looks of the quarters, you ain't done cuttin.

[68_Val_Sedan]

THAT is alot of work ... my welder just went on strike looking at those pics   ... looks like you got a handle on it though ... keep the pics flowing

[VTI]

Going to do the bodywork at another freinds place. He wanted the interior stuff done first before we start on the outside. going to be a fun winter.

[mopowers]

Looks good.  How do you attach the tin to the tube frame rails?

[VTI]

Not sure, will ask.

[75Dart440]

Not sure, will ask.

Nothing a few strategically welded angled steel tabs couldn't cure.

That is a nice looking tubular rail though!

[ro23j71]

I am at the same stages with my car. Where did you place the level on the body to get it level? I used the package sill out back and the cowl up-front. The top of the rocker boxes for the front to back level. I just wonder if there is a better way?

[VTI]

I am not sure where is the best place to level the car. Justin Kill from Overkill race cars is doing the full cage, and back half. http://www.overkillracecars.com  This is his web site. here are a few more pictures.

[OverkillRC]

I am at the same stages with my car. Where did you place the level on the body to get it level? I used the package sill out back and the cowl up-front. The top of the rocker boxes for the front to back level. I just wonder if there is a better way?

i used the rocker panels and frame rails when i leveled the car. the problem with using the package tray (atleast on John's dart) is it isn't flat it is actually bowed.

when attaching the sheetmetal i usually just rivet it just like 2 X 3" it's just a little more work just mark where the edge of the tube is in relation to the sheetmetal measure in half the diameter of the tube and that is the centerline of your tube start you line of rivets where you want them and mark the tube for spacing them apart it works pretty well.

Justin

[68_Val_Sedan]

very nice work  Justin .... keep the pics flowing

[OverkillRC]

very nice work  Justin .... keep the pics flowing

thanks, i try. i'm just starting on sheetmetal i'll keep you all updated.

by the way John posted my site just wanted to mention i haven't updated it in a LONG time... just to busy

Justin

[OverkillRC]

thought i would update everyone on the progress on john's Dart i'm moving along on the sheetmetal, still have some panels to make but i'm getting there.

Justin

[ro23j71]

Hey Justin,

        The metal work looks fantastic! Nothing like nice beaded panels and tubs. (did you make the tubs?) I am following this very closely because I am doing the same setup in my car right now. Only thing different is I am putting the stock trunk floor back in. Keep the photo's coming. Thanks, Paul

[OverkillRC]

Paul,

The tubs are from ART http://www.appliedracing.com/ i just bead rolled them. will try and get some more pics posted tonight. may i ask why you want to put the stock trunk floor back in yours?

thanks,
Justin

[ro23j71]

Justin,

        I like the look of the stock trunk in the car. Also like the extra room that 6" or 8" wheel well gives me. I am planning a few different locations for ballast and one of them is low inside that well and all the way to the rear. I am using a Jaz pro-cell so it too will be mounted low. I know nobody sees it from undernieth but I will.

[ro23j71]

PS,
   Justin, I too am using the ART sub-frame. Very nice piece. I have a 28" width in mine. Yours looks even wider. I also bought their wheel tubs but went with the steel beaded set. I hope to add a little more to them once they are sized and cut. As much as I like bead work I won't go to crazy because I am planning on carpeting the rear seat area. Also, how are you connecting the sub-frames?

[OverkillRC]

The rear subframe i bent myself (framerail's and crossmember) the tubs are art as well as the 4-link and the like. the frame rail width on this car is 29" outside width. for the subrame connectors i used 2X2 square tubing i butted it up against the front crossmember (where the torsion bars go thru) then i cut the front of the stock rear framerails oprn in the front and slid in the 2X2 then welded all around here are some pics.








the last pics is of some sheetmetal i got done today,
Justin

[ro23j71]

Hey Justin,

        I am building a strick drag car. I am keeping it all steel. In fact the only item that is not steel is the hood scoop. I am using the Magnum Force front suspension .so the torsion bars are out of the picture. I am using round tube for everything that I am adding. I am wondering what size tires you are able to fit inside those tubs? Have you tried them yet? I am hoping to be able to fit a 14 x 32 slick under mine. How wide did the tubs end up at?

[OverkillRC]

this car is a standard as well. i think later on john is going to do away with the torsion bars also. the tires for this car are 31 X 16.5 the tubs are about 20 inches wide they are 40 inch tubs.

Justin

[ro23j71]

Thanks for the info Justin,

         Have you fit those tires inside yet? I am planning on running radial slicks and they have a 17" sidwall to sidewall width mounted on a 14" rim. From what I can see John's car is going to be Pro-Street or street/strip. Will it be running Mickey Thompsons or something of that type? I am wondering what they will have for a sidewall width. I am a little concerned if I will be able to fit what I want and my rails are an inch narrower. You have taken a load off my mind with your info.

              Thanks, Paul

[OverkillRC]

Paul,

John's car is going to be pro-street/strip he's running hoosier tires (not sure of the rim width) here are some pics with the tire mocked up.
there is a bit over an inch from the outside sidewall and the lip of the opening and about 2 1/2-3" on the inside and about 4" or so from the top of the tire to the top of the tub

Hope this helps,
Justin

From the side

wheel lip to outside sidewall

inner sidewall to tub/framerail

[ro23j71]

Justin, thanks for the pictures of the tire fit. It has put my mind at ease about the fit of my slicks. It seems like you are close to finishing up your end of this project. I have been in the process of bending tubes and starting to fit things together. I hope to be at least tacking some tubes in place very shortly. I will be TIG welding the entire cage and frame. I am using mild steel but decided to TIG it all together. Just about everything I am doing is overkill (no pun intended) since I am building the car for my youngest daughter who wants to try racing. I have gone overboard on anything safety related. I will put her in the safest possible car I can build. I really appreciate your time and advise on my project. I will send you some photo's as soon as I have something to show. I think I have come up with some good ideas.

                   Paul

[OverkillRC]

i usually mig mild unless the customer want's it tiged (it's alot more expensive though) i'm actually trying to get away from mild steel altogether. i like moly better, i think it's easier to work with and the advantages outwiegh the extra cost (IMO) let me know if you need anymore help or advice i glad to help. e-mail me direct if you like chassisguy@msn.com

Justin

[OverkillRC]

got some more pics for you guy's to have a look at what ya think.








not as far along as i would like to be but it's getting there i'm moving into a new shop soon (hopefully this week) so may put me a bit behind (good thing john is paitent...)

Justin

[ro23j71]

Hey Justin,

     Thanks for the updated photo's. I spent the weekend mocking up and fitting tubes in my car. I hope to be tacking them in place real soon.

                      Paul

[OverkillRC]

Paul,

good luck with it if you need any help (atleast what i can provide on the internet anyway....) i'll do what i can.

Justin

[signet]

it looks realy good from here.

lots of little tricks.

thanks

[blackbetty]

How did you trim the outside of the tubs to fit tight against the inside of the car and what did you do to attach them..

[OverkillRC]

How did you trim the outside of the tubs to fit tight against the inside of the car and what did you do to attach them..

chris alston sells a small tool for getting the profile on the inside of the car. i start by cutting the template to just fit inside the car (i try and keep it within about an inch of the body) then i take the alston tool (well a copy i made actually as there is nothing to it it's a piece of aluminum flat on one end pointed on the other) run the pointed end against the inside on the body and a marker at the other end to mark the template for the full tub. now take out your template and trim the tub at the line you made (at this point you template will be to small by the length of the "alston" tool) now take the template and lay it flat on your actual tub and using the "alston" tool (pointed end toward your template this time) run the tool and the marker the length of the tub and that should give you a good tight fit with minor fine tuning (depends on how accurate you were with your "alston" tool). for attaching them to the body i use silicone so there is some give if the body flexes any although i haven't attached them on John's car yet.

do i have you confused yet?
Justin