Leaf spring slider bracket

[1DART440]

I can see how those slider brackets that eliminate the rear shackle reduce sway that could occur in the shackle. Has anyone made a set or does anyone have pictures of them? I would like to make a set. Thanks.

[70 Dustpan]

I got mine from Summit for $50 each. I would just buy them over trying to make them.

[1DART440]

Do they have sealed ball bearings that run in a track?

[Crazy68Dart]

I am still on the fence with this one...

I guess I see the leafs flattening and arching more than the travel of a slider can provide.  Maybe I am wrong, but do guys run these on strip cars, or mostly on roundy rounds?  What is the correct method of installation to not cause a problem with hitting the wall on the travel they provide?

Andy

[sycboi]

Buy them from Bill R...

[Crazy68Dart]

Buy them from Bill R...

Kewl, I didn't know Bill had them...

Andy

[vitamindart]

yep got mine from bill r just haven't installed them yet and i'm pretty shure they where less than 50 each

[demondave]

can you run this on the street or is it for racing only?  thanks

[sr71mopar]

can you run this on the street or is it for racing only? thanks

That is pretty much the same question I have. I dont mind a little noise, but will these things hold up to regular usage? How many regular miles can you expect to get from them?

[Bill_Reilly]

You can run them on the street without any trouble. They're easiest to install if you have the springs moved in - just weld them right to the bottom of the frame rail - that will also lower your rear about 1/2" or so. In the stock position, you could just make a triangular bolt-on bracket to attach them to.

https://www.reillymotorsports.com/store/product.php?productid=16158&cat=253&page=1

[Crazy68Dart]

Bill, what is the correct way of mounting them to the car?  For instance, my car is torn apart, so even setting it on the ground would not be a good indication of the finished weight.  Would just hate to do it then have them be in the wrong spot.

Andy

[Bill_Reilly]

Without the cars weight on it to give you a location, it would be almost impossible. I mean, you could probably calculate the length of the spring and rate versus the length change of the arch based on the true weight of the rear, which wouldn't be all that hard to do, and it would give you the actual location of the rear spring eye. But to get it right you'd still need the true weight in pounds of the rear half of the car - so even with a calculator you'd still have a guess for a starting point.

[b569rr]

I mounted them on my '67. I'm with you guys as in I'm not sure where to set them up. Therefore I mounted pads so I can move them forwards or backwards if I need to. I mounted mine with 1.5 " of travel to the front under a recommendation from someone that uses them on the street. He doesn't have SS springs like I do so this may be a problem.

Tom

[70 Dustpan]

I didn't know you had them Bill. How long have you been carrying them?

[Bill_Reilly]

Well I've had sliders for a couple years, but it's only about a month now that I'm making the alum. bushings to fit a-body spring eyes. They come with a 15/16" bushing, for chevy leafs, so I didn't really mention it until I had the right size bushings.

[Crazy68Dart]

Tom, that is sort of what I was thinking too.  The plates that the sliders are mounted to, do you have machined slots for adjustability, or do you plan on drilling new holes if you have to move them?  I was thinking of using a full plate, but that would be tough to weld unless I rip my trunk floor out... hmmm.

Bill, new product.  Make some adjustable plates to go with the sliders for people like me that don't have access to a mill!     Then you could have the car sitting on the ground, have the four plate bolts loose, and bop the slider into position with a mallet.  Sure would beat having to relocate them the hard way.   

Andy

[b569rr]

I'll drill new holes in them if I need to. Also, you could weld angle iron to the plate, slide it onto the frame, and weld the angle iron to the frame. My plates will have the car sitting at a height close to the stock shackles. My car is 2 years away from completion so I'm anticipating a little settling and I don't have my finished weight on the rear either. I'm hoping they settle an inch forward of centerline.

Tom

[70 Dustpan]

Bill, Do you sale just the alum. bushings? I already got the sliders, but need the smaller bushings.

Brent

[Crazy68Dart]

I'll drill new holes in them if I need to. Also, you could weld angle iron to the plate, slide it onto the frame, and weld the angle iron to the frame. My plates will have the car sitting at a height close to the stock shackles.

Tom

Thats a good idea.  I might do that.  Thanks Tom.  Wish you lived closer so you could teach me how to make my welds look as nice as yours.   

Andy

[Bill_Reilly]

Yea, the bushings are 19/pair

[jamesdart]

i have not used them, id like to use them, but i just cant see how they have enough travel for a street strip car, you need rearward travel for over bumps and a good amount of foward travel for launches. if you dont have the foward travel, it will limit movement and probably unload the rear tires kind of like running too short of a shock.

[Bill_Reilly]

The sliders give you more travel than shackles - SS spring cars are running them because the bottoming shackles were unloading the springs... Unless you're using really long shackles instead of stock ones...

[bentwheel43]

Bill, did you test them with ss spring at the track. Or dose it work on cal-track better, or just makes the rear more stable (I gould see where it would) are all of them.   less say in 60ft. ill it pick up or just be better handling.     BENT43

[Crazy68Dart]

i have not used them, id like to use them, but i just cant see how they have enough travel for a street strip car, you need rearward travel for over bumps and a good amount of foward travel for launches. if you dont have the foward travel, it will limit movement and probably unload the rear tires kind of like running too short of a shock.

I was worried about this too....  I would have to look at a shackle and pivot it through its range of motion to where it would hit the rail.

Bill, I am running Calvert Monos, see any problem with running sliders with the Monos and Caltracs?  Maybe I should call Calvert...  How much travel is there end to end on the sliders?

Andy

[fourspeed]

An idea for you guys...

Look at Tom's frame rail. Instead of two plates, I would use one plate with several mounting positions for the slider. When you get the car together, you can move the slider as necessary. The additional holes might come in handy if you ever change leaf springs too.

I need to deal with this myself, because my shackles through the frame rail don't allow enough travel. 

Mark

[70 Dustpan]

My plan is to get the springs mounted in the front and get the rear-end bolted to them, then add a few hundred pounds to the rear-end to make up for what's not on the car. Sit the car down on it's own weight and mark where the rear springs sit. Then go from there. Good / Bad?

[sycboi]

My plan is to get the springs mounted in the front and get the rear-end bolted to them, then add a few hundred pounds to the rear-end to make up for what's not on the car. Sit the car down on it's own weight and mark where the rear springs sit. Then go from there. Good / Bad?

Sounds like a plan...I might do the same.

[Blue]

Thinking about using sliders when I fit the caltracs n' mono's, I was concerned that they wouldn't have as much travel as a shackle but if they have more then I better just get on with it....

[b569rr]

Much to my relief when I let the car down on its suspension I saw more front travel open up on the slider. This is without engine, fuel or interior weight.

Tom