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Topic: roll cage problems (Read 556 times)
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coors00
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I think I welded in the main hoop too high. It is getting too busy up there, when trying to fit in the halo (which C/E says will fit @ 44" wide at the front-not unless I rip out the headliner and trim, or lower it so it crosses the rear view mirror). I need to lower a custom halo about 6" from the top of the main hoop. Go, or no go; per nhra? Also, do the front down struts have to intersect at the 90 degree angle at the front, or can they be moved back, at the top?
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bOb shingler
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mine was the same way. i cut a piece out in the middle so it wasn't too wide. i was able to leave the sun visors and mirro. when you cut it find a tube that fits inside. drill 4 holes in each side of the cut, insert the smaller piece and weld around the cut and in the 8 holes.
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"bOb Built" (no matter how many times it takes) 
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mopowers
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I didn't think that was even legal Bob. Thats interesting though.
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66 Dart GT: BB project. shooting for high 10's 2006 Dakota 
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496dart
Full Member
 
Offline
Posts: 482
BigBlockDart.Com
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Ive never had a tech really look at my cage very closely , they usually look at it real quick and give it a tug ... 
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bigtimeauto
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What Bob did is legal as long as its done right. Its in the rule book. Just remember guys the cage is to protect YOU and you only. Do it right just in case you find yourself upside down sliding into the wall.
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coors00
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mine was the same way. i cut a piece out in the middle so it wasn't too wide. i was able to leave the sun visors and mirro. when you cut it find a tube that fits inside. drill 4 holes in each side of the cut, insert the smaller piece and weld around the cut and in the 8 holes.
com engineering said no, too. If a weld- let my take this further( a mig can get hotter than a stick welder, a 7014 rod has more tensile than a mig) I agree with Bob, Strenght is there. But stupid rules say use a mig. a better weld can be done with a ac rod, and less heat.
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coors00
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What Bob did is legal as long as its done right. Its in the rule book. Just remember guys the cage is to protect YOU and you only. Do it right just in case you find yourself upside down sliding into the wall.
What page? Splicing would make my world a lot easier...
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coors00
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And like Bob said, with an internal tube; it should be just as strong as original.
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68_Val_Sedan
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Go ahead and splice the tube. Bevel the tube ends for penetration,make the pice slip fit, grind the welds smooth and no one will ever know you did it. Just make sure to do it right. It is your life you are protecting ...
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67 dart 270 resto mod in progress ...
68 chrysler 300 wish it was my daily driver ...
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OverkillRC
Jr. Member

Offline
Posts: 29
BigBlockDart.Com
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com engineering said no, too. If a weld- let my take this further( a mig can get hotter than a stick welder, a 7014 rod has more tensile than a mig) I agree with Bob, Strenght is there. But stupid rules say use a mig. a better weld can be done with a ac rod, and less heat. the reason they do that (only allow mig or tig that is) it's easy to lay down a bead with an arc that looks great but then you knock off the slag and low and behold a ring of bird poop. yes, it's true arc is a perfectly acceptable method of welding a cage but to much chance of a bad weld hell some of the mig welded cages i have seen probably shouldn't have teched but they did. i looked at a jeep this weekend (runs 11.30's by the way) looked like ray charles welded it after he died and if flew right thru tech. Justin
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Justin Kill Overkill Race Cars LLC (970)-581-8134 Race car chassis fabrication custom roll bars, cages, tin work, rearend housings.....etc
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coors00
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Ray Charles welded.  . Think I got it figured out- questions; does the down strut by your knee have to weld at the 90 degree of the halo hoop? how far can it be moved back? If you have a cage, does the foll bar rule apply? (6" from head) ?
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bOb shingler
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are you asking about the "A" pillar bar?
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"bOb Built" (no matter how many times it takes) 
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coors00
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Not the main hoop. the one that comes down right in by your knee.
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coors00
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Dunno, about an A piller; Main hoop is at where rear of front door closes; to put the top hoop and downbars in is the ? I have right now.
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OverkillRC
Jr. Member

Offline
Posts: 29
BigBlockDart.Com
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Dunno, about an A piller; Main hoop is at where rear of front door closes; to put the top hoop and downbars in is the ? I have right now.
the a-piller bar goes from the main hoop along the roofline down the a-piller (in front of the wing windows or the vertial posts of your windshield if you will, they hold up the front of the roof!) and in front of the door by the hinges. is that what your refeering to? some roll cage kits have what is called a halo hoop it goes from the main hoop along the roofline bends and runs along the top of the windshield then bends again and goes back to the main hoop. then there are bar that go from the "halo hoop" down along the windshield and down to the floor. do i have you totally confused yet? Justin
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Justin Kill Overkill Race Cars LLC (970)-581-8134 Race car chassis fabrication custom roll bars, cages, tin work, rearend housings.....etc
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coors00
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Yeah, I have a halo loop; do the front down bars have to be at the 90 degree, or can they be welded to the rear about 6"?
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OverkillRC
Jr. Member

Offline
Posts: 29
BigBlockDart.Com
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no they don't have to be 90 degrees to the halo hoop (or loop whichever you prefer) thats about the way they typically are (90 degrees that is) and it would be stronger at 90 (imho)
Justin
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Justin Kill Overkill Race Cars LLC (970)-581-8134 Race car chassis fabrication custom roll bars, cages, tin work, rearend housings.....etc
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coors00
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Just got an answer from NHRA; halo can be 3.25" lower, a piller can be 3.25" to the rear.
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