POR-15

[69-DART]

JUST HAD THE DART MEDIA BLASTED. ROLLED OVER AND OVER ON THE ROTISERRIE BLEW OUT AND VACUMED
BEFORE DOING ANY WORK OF THE BODY WORK ON THE CAR.. SHOULD THIS THING BE SANDED, WIPED OR WHAT?

1ST I WAS GONNA DO ALL OF THE METAL WORK....QUARTES FENDERS ECT.
AFTER DOING THE WELDING/GRINDING I WAS GONNA JUST SHOOT THE WHOLE THING INSIDE AND OUT WITH AN EPOXY-PRIMER
SO, MY QUESTION IS: WILL THE EPOXY COATING SERV AND DO THE JOB OF SEALING LIKE POR OR DO I NEED TO POR-15 THE INERS AND THEN EPOXY EVERYTHING?

[68_Val_Sedan]

Por 15 is for use over rust ... if you had it blasted you do not need it.   Do all your welding and work then use some "prep solve" to wipe the whole car down, then shoot it with etching primer, then a coat of epoxy primer.  The epoxy primer is a great sealer.
Could you also turn the caps lock off ... make the posts hard to read .. thanks !!!

[69-DART]

Por 15 is for use over rust ... if you had it blasted you do not need it.   Do all your welding and work then use some "prep solve" to wipe the whole car down, then shoot it with etching primer, then a coat of epoxy primer.  The epoxy primer is a great sealer.
Could you also turn the caps lock off ... make the posts hard to read .. thanks !!!

should i do a quik once over of the whole car with say ...120 or 180 grit just to knock down/off what feels like loose ruff material that is now on the car?

[68_Val_Sedan]

you can if you want but the prep solve will do most of the cleaning ... wipe it on with a paper towel and blow it dry with compressed air as you complete each section.  it will help with the dust as well ...

I am doing the same thing as you   http://www.bigblockdart.com/index.php/topic,30650.0.html

[69-DART]

you can if you want but the prep solve will do most of the cleaning ... wipe it on with a paper towel and blow it dry with compressed air as you complete each section.  it will help with the dust as well ...

I am doing the same thing as you   http://www.bigblockdart.com/index.php/topic,30650.0.html

so order of opps should be.. let me know what I'm missing or added un-necessary

-180 ruff sand
-blow off

-metal work

-prep solve
-wipe and blow off

-metal etch primer ( all surfaces that will be painted, inside and out?)

-epoxy primer (inside and out)

-then body filler
-sand

-dust with rattle can
-sand for highs and lows

-fill and sand again

-shoot high build primer
-finish sand (wet or dry?)

-shoot

[68_Val_Sedan]

yup ... except the body filler needs to go on bare metal with 80 grit or courser scratches so you'll either have to grind your primer off or do the filler work before any priming

[69-DART]

yup ... except the body filler needs to go on bare metal with 80 grit or courser scratches so you'll either have to grind your primer off or do the filler work before any priming

really... i thought that the bondo could go right over the epoxy primer?

[68_Val_Sedan]

nope ... filler goes on steel ... if you need more filer once you start priming then use some 2 part polyester finishing putty, it is designed to be used over primer.  comes in pints and quarts and uses the same activator as regular filler .... btw get a good lightweight filler like "rage Gold"  etc not bondo from walmart

[69-DART]

nope ... filler goes on steel ... if you need more filer once you start priming then use some 2 part polyester finishing putty, it is designed to be used over primer.  comes in pints and quarts and uses the same activator as regular filler .... btw get a good lightweight filler like "rage Gold"  etc not bondo from walmart

cool thanks for the advice

so it would probably be fine to initaily hit the whole car with th 80 grit right off the bat insdtead of the 120-180 i had in mind?

also what about the coat of metal etch...whole car, inside and out?

 

[68_Val_Sedan]

most manufactures say that if you have a spot of bare metal bigger than a basket ball then you will need metal etching primer.  So yes all the bare metal gets it ...

BTW welcome to the site

got any pics ?   we love pics on this site

[69-DART]

most manufactures say that if you have a spot of bare metal bigger than a basket ball then you will need metal etching primer.  So yes all the bare metal gets it ...

BTW welcome to the site

got any pics ?   we love pics on this site

10-4

so, like stuff the gun inside of the door and quarter shells and pull the trigger..?
i'll probably ruff cut the quaters and hit those with epoxy while they are exposed before putting the skin over it and cutting it in
sound good?

as for the pics...you got it.
i'll be tossing em up with every step of progress
so far just built the rotisserie and got it stripped and blasted. will post some pics of that

[69-DART]

and what about useing the 80 grit right off of the bat?

[68_Val_Sedan]

You blasted the insides of the doors ?   I hope you/they did it with plastic media blast ... I would pour some activated primer in there and roll the door around until it was all coated ... I think spraying would be futile ...

[68_Val_Sedan]

80 grit scratches will be difficult to sand out of the car so where they are not needed so the 180 would probably be best for the whole car ... save the 80 grit for the filler areas only, 36 grit would actually be better ....

[69-DART]

You blasted the insides of the doors ?   I hope you/they did it with plastic media blast ... I would pour some activated primer in there and roll the door around until it was all coated ... I think spraying would be futile ...

the guy i took it to blasted pretty much everything that the wand would reach

[69-DART]

80 grit scratches will be difficult to sand out of the car so where they are not needed so the 180 would probably be best for the whole car ... save the 80 grit for the filler areas only, 36 grit would actually be better ....

SO YOU ARE SAYING 80 OR 36 GRIT ON THE FILLER ONLY?
150 OR SO ON ALL THE BARE METAL...WONT THE 36 OR 80 GRIT SCRATCH UP THE BARE METAL AROUND THE SPOT OF FILLER WHEN SANDING

[68_Val_Sedan]

yes but it won't be the whole car with 80 grit scratches just an area around the filer ....

[69-DART]

RIGHT ON.

NOW WHAT IS "ACTIVATED PRIMER"?

WILL THIS ALSO TAKE CARE OF THE NEW SEAM AT THE BOTTOM OF THE PANELS?
OR SHOULD I STILL USE SOME OF THATWELD THROUGH SPRAY ON STUFF ON THE SEAMS BEFORE SPOT WELDING THE SEAMS

[68_Val_Sedan]

activated primer is primer that has the hardener mixed into it and is ready to spray  or in the case of etching primer the acid has been mixed in ...

weld through primer is a pain in the ass ... it causes spatter and poor weld quality ... I only use it where there is no chance of coating the panel from the both sides .... did I mention I hate the stuff ?

[69-DART]

SO WHILE THE PANEL IS OFF AFTER THE RUFF CUT I'LL CLEAN AND COAT THE INNER STRUCTURE WITH EPOXT PRIMER(OR SHOULD I USE METAL ETCH HERE TOO?)

AFTER THAT...WELD UP THE NEW PANEL, INCLUDING SPOTTING THE WHEEL WELL LIP.
MIX UP SOME OF THIS STUFF AND POOR IT FROM THE INSIDE ALONG THE BOTTOM OF THE PANEL...AND INSIDE OF THE DOOR SHELL

[68_Val_Sedan]

yup ... if it is bare steel etch primer then weld and coat with epoxy .... but do me a favor before you do anything on the car got out to the garage and get a screw driver and pry the caps lock key off of your keyboard    .... Thanks !!!

[69-DART]

you mean, 1-metal etch primer 2-epoxy and then weld the panel?

[68_Val_Sedan]

cut the panel out ... spray the metal etch then weld and cover the weld with epoxy primer.

[MoPar_or _NoCar]

 

[69-DART]

think i'm lost..sorry.

i was talking about treating the inner structure before capping it off with the skin

[68_Val_Sedan]

no problem ... ask any questions you may have ... that is what the board is for 

The inners can be painted with etch then weld the skins on and either pour or spray the epoxy in the welded area ...

[69-DART]

i was considering shooting epoxy on the inner structure after cleaning while the panel was off..not good idea?

i guess the part that is confussing me is the metal etch?
are suggesting to metal etch prime the entire car inside and out before coating with the epoxy inside and out?

[Arillious]

this is a cool thread... learning allot

the caps lock is funny though

[69-DART]

i was considering shooting epoxy on the inner structure after cleaning while the panel was off..not good idea?

i guess the part that is confussing me is the metal etch?
are suggesting to metal etch prime the entire car inside and out before coating with the epoxy inside and out?

 ?

[rjsjea]

Several epoxies are bare metal epoxies......ie RM DP90 from Glasurit.  Not to throw a monkey wrench into things as there are several ways of doing this.

Skip the weld thru primer.  Weld the quarter on (bare metal), clean the weld (smooth it with 36grit) and prime (either w/ an etch or Epoxy as stated above) on both sides.....you can get decent coverage inside the quarter.  Hit the epoxy with 100 grit or so paper and do your filler work.  Use a hi quality filler (Rage or similar) and it will stick to the bare metal and roughed epoxy primer. 

[69-DART]

Several epoxies are bare metal epoxies......ie RM DP90 from Glasurit.  Not to throw a monkey wrench into things as there are several ways of doing this.

Skip the weld thru primer.  Weld the quarter on (bare metal), clean the weld (smooth it with 36grit) and prime (either w/ an etch or Epoxy as stated above) on both sides.....you can get decent coverage inside the quarter.  Hit the epoxy with 100 grit or so paper and do your filler work.  Use a hi quality filler (Rage or similar) and it will stick to the bare metal and roughed epoxy primer. 

SO YOU ARE SAYING DO THE META WORK = WELD GRIND
THEN SHOOT THE WHOLE THING( NOT JUST THE REPAIR SPOT SPOTS, BUT THE WHOLE CAR) WITH A NICE EPOXY PRIMER?

IF SO THIS WAS MY INITIAL PLAN...
BEING IN AZ I AM NOT REALLY CONCERNED ABOUT SURFACE RUST SETTING UP WHILE BUILDING THE REST OF THE CAR!
I JUST FIGURED BETTER SAFE THAN SORRY.
SO I WAS GONNA JUST DO THE METAL WORK THEN SHOOT THE WHOLE CAR INSIDE And out TO PRESERVE UNTIL FINISHED WITH ALL THE REST OF THE MOCK UP
ONCE ALL OF THAT WAS COMPLETE I WAS GOING TO DO THE FILLER WORK WITH THE RAGE, SHAPE AND SAND TO 180, AND THEN SHOOT IT AGAIN WITH THE EPOXY,
RATTLE CAN A GUIDE COAT SAND AND USE A POLYESTER FILLER..
DO THE FINISH SANDING AND THEN TOPIT OFF WITH A NICE A HIGH BUILD PRIMER

WHATCU THINK?

[rjsjea]

Sounds like a good plan.......pics as you progress

[sunsetdart]

I beg to differ with 68val.........when using a good epoxy primer, you can put filler right over. I just did my new project with PPG epoxy primer, and right on the can it says, "wait at least one hour to apply any filler". Don't want to start any pissing matches here but there are epoxy based primers that you can put filler right over. It gives you a primer seal that after applying a good filler to will not have to worry about rust forming underneath.

[69-DART]

SO NOW IT LOOKS LIKE:

-STEEL WORK

-OIL AND GREASE REMOVE/PREP-SOLVE?

-EPOXY PRIME / INSIDE AND OUT

-BODY FILLER

-SHAPE AND SAND WITH 80

-EPOXY COAT AGAIN / TO COVER FILLER AND ANY SPOTS SANDER TO METAL

-SHOOT GUIDE COAT / RATTLE CAN

-BLOCK / PLANE SAND TO 180

-FILL LOWS WITH POLYESTER FILLER

-SAND BACK DOWN TO 180 / UNTIL SMOOTH

-HIT ENTIRE CAR WITH HIGH BUILD AND FINISH SAND / 200 THEN 400

-READY TO SHOOT

SOUND GOOD?

[sunsetdart]

Just make sure the epoxy primer you choose to use is a good one, like PPG, BASF, Dupont, then go ahead with the steps you just mentioned and you should be good to go.

[mopowers]

Shouldn't you shoot it with high build before you do the blocking?