 Author
|
Topic: POR-15 (Read 660 times)
|
69-DART
Jr. Member
 Offline
Posts: 97
BigBlockDart.Com
|
 |
Re: POR-15
« Reply #30 on: September 21, 2008, 05:00:55 PM » |
|
Several epoxies are bare metal epoxies......ie RM DP90 from Glasurit. Not to throw a monkey wrench into things as there are several ways of doing this.
Skip the weld thru primer. Weld the quarter on (bare metal), clean the weld (smooth it with 36grit) and prime (either w/ an etch or Epoxy as stated above) on both sides.....you can get decent coverage inside the quarter. Hit the epoxy with 100 grit or so paper and do your filler work. Use a hi quality filler (Rage or similar) and it will stick to the bare metal and roughed epoxy primer.
SO YOU ARE SAYING DO THE META WORK = WELD GRIND THEN SHOOT THE WHOLE THING( NOT JUST THE REPAIR SPOT SPOTS, BUT THE WHOLE CAR) WITH A NICE EPOXY PRIMER? IF SO THIS WAS MY INITIAL PLAN... BEING IN AZ I AM NOT REALLY CONCERNED ABOUT SURFACE RUST SETTING UP WHILE BUILDING THE REST OF THE CAR! I JUST FIGURED BETTER SAFE THAN SORRY. SO I WAS GONNA JUST DO THE METAL WORK THEN SHOOT THE WHOLE CAR INSIDE And out TO PRESERVE UNTIL FINISHED WITH ALL THE REST OF THE MOCK UP ONCE ALL OF THAT WAS COMPLETE I WAS GOING TO DO THE FILLER WORK WITH THE RAGE, SHAPE AND SAND TO 180, AND THEN SHOOT IT AGAIN WITH THE EPOXY, RATTLE CAN A GUIDE COAT SAND AND USE A POLYESTER FILLER.. DO THE FINISH SANDING AND THEN TOPIT OFF WITH A NICE A HIGH BUILD PRIMER WHATCU THINK? |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
rjsjea
|
|
Re: POR-15
« Reply #31 on: September 21, 2008, 10:36:06 PM » |
|
Sounds like a good plan.......pics as you progress
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
 Demon:,6.1HEMI, AlterK,Tri4link,custom cage,pro-touring-built for the curves |
|
|
|
sunsetdart
|
|
Re: POR-15
« Reply #32 on: September 24, 2008, 10:28:59 AM » |
|
I beg to differ with 68val.........when using a good epoxy primer, you can put filler right over. I just did my new project with PPG epoxy primer, and right on the can it says, "wait at least one hour to apply any filler". Don't want to start any pissing matches here but there are epoxy based primers that you can put filler right over. It gives you a primer seal that after applying a good filler to will not have to worry about rust forming underneath.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
69-DART
Jr. Member
Offline
Posts: 97
BigBlockDart.Com
|
|
Re: POR-15
« Reply #33 on: September 24, 2008, 01:13:31 PM » |
|
SO NOW IT LOOKS LIKE:
-STEEL WORK
-OIL AND GREASE REMOVE/PREP-SOLVE?
-EPOXY PRIME / INSIDE AND OUT
-BODY FILLER
-SHAPE AND SAND WITH 80
-EPOXY COAT AGAIN / TO COVER FILLER AND ANY SPOTS SANDER TO METAL
-SHOOT GUIDE COAT / RATTLE CAN
-BLOCK / PLANE SAND TO 180
-FILL LOWS WITH POLYESTER FILLER
-SAND BACK DOWN TO 180 / UNTIL SMOOTH
-HIT ENTIRE CAR WITH HIGH BUILD AND FINISH SAND / 200 THEN 400
-READY TO SHOOT
SOUND GOOD?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
sunsetdart
|
|
Re: POR-15
« Reply #34 on: September 24, 2008, 02:50:39 PM » |
|
Just make sure the epoxy primer you choose to use is a good one, like PPG, BASF, Dupont, then go ahead with the steps you just mentioned and you should be good to go.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
mopowers
|
|
Re: POR-15
« Reply #35 on: September 24, 2008, 04:30:09 PM » |
|
Shouldn't you shoot it with high build before you do the blocking?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
66 Dart GT: BB project. shooting for high 10's 2006 Dakota  |
|
|
69-DART
Jr. Member
Offline
Posts: 97
BigBlockDart.Com
|
|
Re: POR-15
« Reply #36 on: September 24, 2008, 05:57:44 PM » |
|
Shouldn't you shoot it with high build before you do the blocking?
BLOCKING? |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
sunsetdart
|
|
Re: POR-15
« Reply #37 on: September 25, 2008, 05:03:51 AM » |
|
Blocking is the sanding you do to make sure everything flat. That's when you use the guide coat on top of the primer to insure the area is flat, which means no high spots or low spots. Then you primer on top of the blocked area ,then filler primer and sand with 400 . When doing final sanding on primer, be careful not to sand to bare metal. If you do, you have to re-prime that spot.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
 |
