MY HEADLIGHTS DONT WORK ???

[south tex mopar]

Yikes, i hate messing with electrical stuff. This week i have been rewiring the duster. My problem right now is that the head lights worked at one time. Then they started to turn on sometimes now nothing. So im thinking about it being the headlight switch.Ii have the light for my tach connected with the headlight wiring, and the tach light works. Thanks guys.

[68_Val_Sedan]

did you check the dimmer switch ?  push it once or twice with the headlight switch pulled on and see if anything changes ...

[satellite65]

 
Seen that twice. And yes, it could also be the headlight switch. Disconnect the tach light wiring to rule it out as a possible cause.

[south tex mopar]

did you check the dimmer switch ?  push it once or twice with the headlight switch pulled on and see if anything changes ...

By the dimmer switch you mean, with the  head light switch pulled all the way out, i woild have to turn the knob right to left. Thats how the dimmer is on my duster. The inside lights dim when i do this. Also the heads lights worked long after i installed the tach.

[MoPar_or _NoCar]

Check your ground wires on the radiator brace. Did you clean the paint off?

[68_Val_Sedan]

no the switch for the high beams or low beams the one on the floor ....

[south tex mopar]

no the switch for the high beams or low beams the one on the floor ....

Oh shit you think that could be it?? Ill really feel dumb if your right. Im going outside to check. Be right back.

[68_Val_Sedan]

 

[south tex mopar]

OK so that didnt work, but another thing worth mentioning is that i had payed someone to connect my electric fuel pump to the ignition, like the instuctions said to do. I bought the holley blue one and i bought the wiring kit for it. Well i just noticed that when i have the car off and pull the headlight swith to the on position, the pump turns on. 

[MoPar_or _NoCar]

 

[south tex mopar]

My tail lights work and rear turn signals, my front lights and signals dont.

[68_Val_Sedan]

OK so that didnt work, but another thing worth mentioning is that i had payed someone to connect my electric fuel pump to the ignition, like the instuctions said to do. I bought the holley blue one and i bought the wiring kit for it. Well i just noticed that when i have the car off and pull the headlight swith to the on position, the pump turns on. 

Sorry ,but I did laugh when i read this

You need to go and get your money back from that idiot ... then take the car to some one who knows what they are doing.

[south tex mopar]

Check your ground wires on the radiator brace. Did you clean the paint off?

Yes i did

[satellite65]

 
Sorry, but I thought that was pretty funny too!

[south tex mopar]

OK so that didnt work, but another thing worth mentioning is that i had payed someone to connect my electric fuel pump to the ignition, like the instuctions said to do. I bought the holley blue one and i bought the wiring kit for it. Well i just noticed that when i have the car off and pull the headlight swith to the on position, the pump turns on. 

No thats fine laugh it up. I know how retarded this is. I just want to do it myself. I need to get rid of my fear of wiring already. Tired of people messing with my stuff. It really pisses me off. So exactly where abouts do i connect the positive wire to the ignition on this thing? everything else i can leave alone im assuming. just positive to ignition right?
 

Sorry ,but I did laugh when i read this

You need to go and get your money back from that idiot ... then take the car to some one who knows what they are doing.

[68_Val_Sedan]

you are going to have to figure out what the other guy did, and undo it so the headlights work .... then find a spot to hook the fuel pump to.  if you have a test light you will be ableto see what fuses are live with the key on and you can tap power for the fuel pump from there. 

[satellite65]

Do you have the wiring diagram for your car. It's going to help you TREMENDOUSLY. Without it, you're just kinda pokin' around in the dark unless you really know the electrical system like the back of your hand.

Don't let wiring/electrical stuff intimidate you. It's really no big deal once you break it down into little pieces. Your biggest problem right now is UNDOING all the F-ups that were done by others. Good luck, we're here for ya.

[south tex mopar]

Is there an easier way? Like, just connect the positive of the pump to the positive on the ignition swith?

[south tex mopar]

Do you have the wiring diagram for your car. It's going to help you TREMENDOUSLY. Without it, you're just kinda pokin' around in the dark unless you really know the electrical system like the back of your hand.

Don't let wiring/electrical stuff intimidate you. It's really no big deal once you break it down into little pieces. Your biggest problem right now is UNDOING all the F-ups that were done by others. Good luck, we're here for ya.

Yeah i have been having a blast fixing all this crap in my electric system. Man, oh man, its just swell. so i dont know if you guys remember, a few months back that my first post was about my engine not reving past 3000 rpm. Turned out to be ingition box. So i went thru all my wiring in my ignition system,and found a couple problems, that i also fixed. Now just have to fix this problem and it should be good

[south tex mopar]

Do you have the wiring diagram for your car. It's going to help you TREMENDOUSLY. Without it, you're just kinda pokin' around in the dark unless you really know the electrical system like the back of your hand.

Don't let wiring/electrical stuff intimidate you. It's really no big deal once you break it down into little pieces. Your biggest problem right now is UNDOING all the F-ups that were done by others. Good luck, we're here for ya.

Thanks man

[satellite65]

Yes, to the "run" position. I'd power the pump through a relay though. I don't know how much current the ign. switch is rated for or how much current the pump draws.

[south tex mopar]

Yes, to the "run" position. I'd power the pump through a relay though. I don't know how much current the ign. switch is rated for or how much current the pump draws.

Yes, the relay came with the wiring kit from holley

[MoPar_or _NoCar]

If I was you, I would get a aftermarket fusebox and pull switched power to it. It would be better to use a toggle than ign. switch. Then feed pump, fan, choke and other accessories from it. True value hardware stores have a cool 1 that uses 6 blade fuses. You want to keep any extra loads away from stock voltage limiter and ampmeter. Good luck.

[signet]

try wiggling the bulkhead disconnect plugs.

anyways too much load on the headlamp circuit soon cooks this connection.

[south tex mopar]

I disconnected the pump and disconnected the tach, trying for the head lights to work with both disconnected. Still not working. I then reconnected the fuel  pump, this time to the acc port on the fuse box. reconnected the tach and called it a day. I just dont know what to think. Ill take a look at the bulkhead tomorrow. If yall can think of anything else i could try 2morrow let me know. Thanks guys

[south tex mopar]

ok so i removed all the wiring off a 73 duster 2day. Going to use anything i need. Also got the light switch. do you guys think maybe a relay could be the problem?

[NYrr496]

Once you figure out the correct way to make your lights work, install a relay for your lights as well.  They'll be brighter than they've ever been and your switch will last forever. 

Check out  http://www.danielsternlighting.com/   It's a wealth of information about getting the most from your headlights.

[south tex mopar]

Man i hate this crap. The bulkheads fine, still dont know. I really hate wiring

[satellite65]

ok so i removed all the wiring off a 73 duster 2day. Going to use anything i need. Also got the light switch. do you guys think maybe a relay could be the problem?

There's no relay in the stock wiring. you need to get the wiring diagram for your car (internet download?) and trace the circuit with a voltmeter from the power source, through the switches (the one on the dashboard AND the floor switch for the brights) and out to the headlamps. if you just bounce around trying this and trying that you're going to rip all the hair out of your head.

[NYrr496]

First and foremost, you need a digital multimeter.  Once you start probing and learning where power is and isn't, this becomes very simple.

[Mopar Tom]

How come nobody ask him to check for continuity in the fusible link
Or has someone asked you & I missed it ?--------------------Mopar ToM
Or where does your headlight circuit get its power

[satellite65]

Gets it from through the fusible link but then again, so does everything else. If the F.L. let go he would have no power to anything. I'm not a big fan of "hunt and peck" or "try this and try that" troublshooting. He needs to take a systematic aproach and once he does, he'll find his problem.

Southtex, you need 2 things. The wiring diagram and like NYrr496 said, a digital multimeter. It doesn't need to be a fancy or expensive one, any cheap Radio Shack or Home Depot job will do the trick.

[south tex mopar]

First and foremost, you need a digital multimeter.  Once you start probing and learning where power is and isn't, this becomes very simple.

So a simple test light wont work? How am i to know, how much voltage each wire is suppost to have anyway, thats what that device is for right?

[south tex mopar]

I copied  the wiring diagram off of the mymopar site. Also when i took the wiring out of the duster, I labeled all the wires before removing them. So could the switch on the floorboard be bad, and that stop the headlights to work. I see the fusible link that you mentioned is in the middle port on the bulkhead. Seems all the lights are thru that bulk head, so why the hell is it called a fusible link if theres no fuse in it??? Makes no sense  

[satellite65]

It's a piece of wire thats designed to burn open at a specified temperature relavent to current. It's a throwaway item. Once it cooks, it goes in the garbage and gets replaced.

[MoPar_or _NoCar]

Take the test light and verify power @ fuseblock. No power switch is bad or no supply to it, we'll go into that later. It will only light up when switch is on. Next verify power @ light socket. If you have power it's either bulb or ground. Get a multimeter anyways in case you need to find the open circuit.