Amp meter bypass

[coro500net]

What is the proper way to eliminate the amp meter?
Do you run a wire from the alt to the starter relay,if so do you just cut off the original alt power wire?
Will the amp meter work at all if you do this modification?

[75Dart440]

Pull the instrument cluster, remove the wires from the ammeter gauge, cut the ring terminals off, solder wires together and wrap in heat shrink tubing.  If I remember right, this same wire splits off behind the dash and feeds the fuse panel, dash, and other accessories inside the car.  If you bypass it on the firewall you still have to run power into the dash somehow.  So it's just as easy to bypass it at the gauge and be done with it.

This will render your gauge useless.  Put a an aftermarket voltmeter in, in it's place.

[Jim_Lusk]

If you are going to bypass the guage it really needs to be done under the hodd completely as part of what you are trying to accomplish is the bypass the TWO connectors in the bulkhead, which really is the issue.

[75Dart440]

If you are going to bypass the guage it really needs to be done under the hodd completely as part of what you are trying to accomplish is the bypass the TWO connectors in the bulkhead, which really is the issue.

If you do it this way, you still have to put power to the large black wire in the bulkhead connector to feed the dash harness or re-run a new wire through the firewall and bypass the bulkhead connector completely.  My bulkhead wiring was in perfect shape so I left alone after re-routing the charging current so it doesn't even come through the inside of the car.

[Jim_Lusk]

That is correct. You still need to feed the system, but it's the charging current that's hard on the bulkhead.

[bigdog440]

this is what we do for do for the 70's dodge trucks and rc's..
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

[DartGTDan]

coro500net,
I disconnected the stock fuse link wire at the starter relay (and taped it back into the harness), and removed the other end of that wire that "feeds" the ammeter (from the ammeter "input" stud (also taped it back into the harness)).  Now that piece of wire and it's questionable/feeble bulk-head connection is dead.
I then added a 12 gauge wire WITH a 16 gauge fuse link.  One end (the fuse link end) goes to the starter relay.  The other end needs to pass through a firewall grommet and attach to the ammeter's "output" stud (leave the original wire on the stud as well).  this will render the ammeter useless, but still give a convenient connection point without cutting off the terminals (in case you want to reverse the operation at some time).
I also added a 12 gauge wire WITH a 16 gauge fuse link between the same starter relay lug and the alternator stud.
Good Luck!!

[Michael Deakin]

I did away with the bulkhead connectors, fitted new multiconnectors under the dash and ran everything under the inner fenders, running the power feed in one.
Mike

[satellite65]

Can you use a circuit breaker instead of a fusible link?

[68_Val_Sedan]

Can you use a circuit breaker instead of a fusible link?

yup ...

[satellite65]

Cool. Didn't really see why not but I've never seen anyone actually do it. Thought maybe there was a reason. 

[coro500net]

So by just adding a wire from the alt to the starter relay(removing the factory alt wire)is not the correct way to do this?
I did it this way,but when I turn headlights on,use directionals,the amp meter still moves.Is this normal?

[Jim_Lusk]

You are still running some current through the ammeter.