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Author
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Topic: LCA plates (Read 399 times)
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Jim_Lusk
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A-bodies since 1978, this one since 1983
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Well, I finally dragged the fresh LCAs out of Alan's trunk so that I could weld on the plates I made. They are similar to the ones you can buy EXCEPT they have the area for the sway bar tab as part of the plate.
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Jim_Lusk
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A little paint and install those along with Bill's tubular uppers and maybe I'll go grab a pair of F/M/J spidles while I'm at it..........................
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ski
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That sway bar tab is a god idea.
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cu440da
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What thickness steel did you use? I assume it would be thicker for strength in the tab area.
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'67 Notchback- 12.85 @ 109mph
440, M1, modified 750 Holley, .509 cam, template ported 906's, ProParts, 3" x-piped mandrel bent exhaust, Spintech's, 4.10 Sure Grip, 3200 stall, CalTracs and mono's, RR hood bulge fresh air system
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Jim_Lusk
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I used whatever I found lying around. It's probably 3/16" (but I can check to be sure). It is thicker than the steel the LCA is stamped out of. The sway bar tabs will probably be trimmed a little more when I figure out exactly where the hole needs to be.
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70 Dustpan
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Jim, are you going to put bump stops on the arms? If so you are going to need a hole in the center to get the nut on the back side of it.
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Jim_Lusk
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No bump stops. Alan has the car sitting too low. That's why we needed tubular uppers.
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fourspeed
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Not a bad idea, Jim. Would you consider a gusset to keep the tab from bending? I'm betting that swaybar will see a lot of force.
Mark.
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Jim_Lusk
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I don't think it will need one. We have simpler tabs on the car right now that haven't bent. I did consider it, though. We'll see how it holds up.
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jamesdart
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not a bad idea, but i would add a gusset or 2 two each tab. i made a few sets of those at work one day out of 1/8". no tab though.
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Jim_Lusk
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Ther eis a curve built in which will act as a partial stiffener, plus as thick as they are I don't think there will be a problem.
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DartKnight
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Hey Jim, I'm bringing up this thread again because I wanted to ask you about the LCA bumpstops. I'm getting ready to do my front end and I was thinking of leaving the bumpstops off because my car is pretty low, also (I will be using tubular uppers as well). I've had people tell me that this is not a good idea and that I should either shave the stops a bit, or modify the frame. What would be best for a car driven primarily on the street? I have decided to go in more of an autocross direction rather than drag race, so I figure with the stiffer torsion bars, it shouldn't be a big problem...
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Jason
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70 Dustpan
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What would be best for a car driven primarily on the street? I have decided to go in more of an autocross direction rather than drag race, so I figure with the stiffer torsion bars, it shouldn't be a big problem...
That's pretty much how my car is, but I cut the stops down so that they are about 1" tall. I didn't want to have them ever bottom out on metal to metal.
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Jim_Lusk
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We cut the bumpers first. Then Alan lowered the car more (thus the need for tubular uppers). There wasn't enough room. The car also has 1.14" torsion bars.
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70 Dustpan
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Jim how are you lowering the car that much? I have .920 bars and with the adjusters all the way out it's still sitting up higher then I want. The front end has pretty much full weight on it too.
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Hey, I'm a God again!
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Jim_Lusk
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Posts: 4921
A-bodies since 1978, this one since 1983
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It's been so long since I looked at the front end on the car, but the bars need to be put in in such a way that there is enough adjustment. I'll try to take a look tomorrow if it isn't raining too much..................
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