Liquid Paint Remover

[Ed]

what's the best brand out there that average joe can buy and where to buy.  I'm working on a Lil Red and it's has the worst paint/body work and I want to start fresh and I don't want to sand.  Someone took a grinder to all the chips in the old paint and they can be seen a mile away now.  Been thinking of getting it blasted, but haven't called for a price and I figure a truck won't be cheap.  It looks like it was repainted a couple years ago, I think it's enamel.  Thx all.

[slow_motion]

Best i have tried thats easy to get is some ACE hardware brand stuff---worked better than some name brands i tried that they stocked. If you want to spend more, the stuff i tried in a spray can from Advanced Auto Parts (mar hyde Aircraft stripper i believe is what it said) was the only thing that touched whatever coating dodge put on my dakota wheels.

--chad

[Brad4406]

I don't know what brand it is, but I had really good luck with the Aircraft Paint Remover they sell at Advance Auto Parts.  I don't know if they still sell it since it's been at least 5 years since I bought any.

[mopowers]

I've had really good luck with JASCO brand I think it's called

[sr71mopar]

Jasco or aircraft stripper. They are about the same. Thick, brush on stuff. Try not to get any on you. Dont breathe too deep either.

[Ed]

I've seen the aircraft stuff at the stores, don't think I've ever tried it because of the price.  But anything is better then sanding this aircraft carrier. 

Worse stuff to get on you is this drain cleaner called bull dozer(sold at Ace), pure sulfuric acid, don't ask.

[Jamakin]

aircraft stipper is the shit! the spray can works a lot better then the gallon jug.  Spray on paint disolves and pretty much falls off.  Good thing the local highschool kids don't know about this stuff.  Becareful tho its nasty to breath and COVER YOUR EYES you will pretty much go blind if you get it in there

[kulorguy]

hello......think this out when paint stripper gets into hardware holes,bodyseams gaps its a mess..........if you must do this take some alumium tape you get from the hardware store and tape all your gaps,holes,body seams,,,this way you can sand off the minor amount of paint left under the tape this way you know where the stripper has been.....there nothing like the frustion that you will feel when you see your kool paint job blistering,peeling etc. all it takes is a little moisture to reactivate it.... now days with the media blasting  the standard process is to take it from the blaster to your shop sand it to( knock down the old residue paint left) ,blow it off ,metal condition the bare metal ,epoxy primer all bare metal,then spray your real urethane primer or polyester primer then do your bodywork,dont introduce any moisture to your substrates.....water is for sanding finished paint...... its not necesary to reprime the whole car just the area where the bodywork is....also its not necesary to remove most of the primer guide coat and sand till the guide coat is gone...... i sand all my primers with 150 grit, guide coat and resand with 240grit...then i spray a sealer on (2 coats) go to paint  sorry....im paint crazy.....steve p.s. get the tech sheets when you purchase any and all products these are great for helping you apply the products..... oh... stay with one brand of products

[bodyperson]

Kolorguy, you maybe crazy but you are right on track. Several things when usiing aircraft stripper(only product to use) If there is a lot of material, break the paint surface first with 80 # or 36# sand paper on an angle grinder. Apply the stripper. next cover the panel with plastic. (car wrap visqueen etc...) to hold the chemicals. don't let it sit too long and don't let it get too cold or hot ( read directions) very important brush in one direction and don't mess with it.   brush it on thick with one coat and DON'T MESS WITH IT.  depending on the tempurature scrape it off when its wrinkled but not too dry. reapplication may apply.  Don't expect the stripper to take it all down to bare metal. Neutralize with water. some of the factory sealers are tough. Sand the rest off . Then follow Kolorguys guidlines. Charlie  P.S. Do not use aircraft stripper on plastic or fiberglass. If you run into plastic body filler grind all of it out then metal prep. metal prep is a nother subject (just ask )

[mrspeeddemon]

one note on Aircraft Remover, there is the normal brand and then there is the "low odor" version. Don't use the low odor if you can help it, its real weak and takes at least twice as much.

[Ed]

Thanks for all the info, good stuff.