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Topic: Great handling! how would you do it? (Read 2115 times)
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bbscamp
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Here's the car: Stock (early or late) A-body, auto, ps, manual disk/drum, SB motor, 3.55 sure-grip, no sway bars front or rear. Assume all stock parts are in NEW condition. How would you make this car a great handling street car? By this I mean flat in the turns and smooth on the highway. Total budget allowance: $1500. Items can only be bolt-ons. How would you do it? list parts and costs. My guess, Bill will come up with the best combo! 
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abodyjoe
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jim lusk will be able to tell you... i would say heavy duty leaf springs,atleast .920 torsion bars and front and rear sway bars.... i would think that would be the cheapest and easiest way to do it...
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wilddriver
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yep abodyjoe said do that, for a start and see what if any you got left I KNOW I GOT A SET OF BB TBARS FOR (USED) FOR AROUND A 100 SHIPPING INCLUDE
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Half way to the millon mile club
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70 Dustpan
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Ok this is what I got for the Valiant: Bills upper control arms: $300 Bills strut rods: $200 .920 T bars: $150 Boxed lower control arms: $10 ( $16 new stock bushings ) 1 1/8" front away bar: $15 junk yard (new $150) B body spindles: $40 junk yard 11 3/4" rotors and brackets: $50 junk yard 11/16" C body tie rod ends with solid alum. sleeves: $80 Boxed and reinforced K frame: $10 + 5 hours of work Front 1 5/8" tube bar to connect front frame rails together under the Rad: $10 Power steering box from 69 charger: Free form old parts car New pitman and idler arm: $60 KYB shocks 4 : $40 ( junk yard ) 340 leaf spring: off old car ( Alum. front bushings free -friend made- $40 new Leaf spring sliders: $100 11 X 3" rear brakes: $50 junk yard ( $20 for new shoes ) factory 3/4" rear sway bar: $15 junk yard ( $150 new ) Frame connectors: homemade: $40 Looking at rear disc brake set-up $300 to $350 Still looking for wheels and tires: $?  ?
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Hey, I'm a God again!
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slow_motion
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Here is what i did for my slant six 74, i'll try to post the correct from my memory prices.
Here was the base line
74 /6 dart swinger, already had: -power steering--id keep that -Disk brakes (depends if you have to buy--we'll say $500 for used setup) -1 1/4" front sway bar (approx $150 new) -3/4" rear sway bar (approx $150 new) -15x7 cop wheels (approx $100 set)
what i changed
-225/50r15 dunlops tires, ($320) -.920 t-bars ($120) -Bills upper arms ($300) -New lower bushings/strut rod bushings ($40) -heavy duty aluminum tie-rod sleeves($50) -Alighnment ($80--i got a deal because i helped--car was wwaaaayyy out of spec) -Cal trac mono leaf rear springs (approx $320--i had a used set around) -rear shocks (approx $60---had them from another car) -front shocks ($10 swap meet)
The car handles REALLY good, I have been considering going to a slightly taller tire to get a little ride quality back, but i am satisfied as of now with it. I have experienced a slight oversteer with the car when i really push it, but i cant go fast enough on public roads to see if i can correct the problems---some say the rear sway bar is doing it it and i dont really need it.
--chad
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Formerly: 400dart, 4523 posts on old board. Recovering racing addict and turbo junkie
Life is just fine in the slow lane.
'85 D150 stepside, lowered, magnum 360 '96 Dakota,3.9, 2" drop, GenIII wheels '95 Ram, her truck '71 Duster, her car, 318/air, stock '20 Model T pickup, stock
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slow_motion
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Just a thought on your $1500 budget
Bills upper arms $300 .990 T-bars $150 Sway bar front $150 Shocks set of 4 $150 Tires/wheels $500
Im at $1250 and its on its way to good handleing already.
Do you have a car yet? your post didnt really say.........
--chad
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Formerly: 400dart, 4523 posts on old board. Recovering racing addict and turbo junkie
Life is just fine in the slow lane.
'85 D150 stepside, lowered, magnum 360 '96 Dakota,3.9, 2" drop, GenIII wheels '95 Ram, her truck '71 Duster, her car, 318/air, stock '20 Model T pickup, stock
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jamesdart
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springs n things can make you a set of hd leafs and you can have them de arched as much as youd like.
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abodyjoe
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you can buy those lower control arm plates pretty cheap.. i forget who sells them. then just weld them on yourself.. i welded a set to a friends rr arms.. real easy to do .. 
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Jim_Lusk
Official BS King
Global Moderator
BBD God
   
Offline
Posts: 4706
A-bodies since 1978, this one since 1983
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You don't need $550 shocks. KYB's are fine for about 1/4 (or less) of that. I'd keep it simple. .920 or .990 torsion bars. Aftermarket sway bars front and rear. KYB shocks Good 15 or 16 inch wheels (I'd go with 15s) "H" rated or better tires. Kuhmo has some good offerings for a good price. Frame connectors.
Everything else is nice, but for a great street handler you won't notice much difference. You may notice the difference on a race track, though.
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7903 posts on old board.
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70 Dustpan
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There not that hard to make either. I did mine with a cut-off wheel and a hole-saw.
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Hey, I'm a God again!
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BIGFISH
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You don't need $550 shocks. KYB's are fine for about 1/4 (or less) of that. I'd keep it simple. .920 or .990 torsion bars. Aftermarket sway bars front and rear. KYB shocks Good 15 or 16 inch wheels (I'd go with 15s) "H" rated or better tires. Kuhmo has some good offerings for a good price. Frame connectors.
Everything else is nice, but for a great street handler you won't notice much difference. You may notice the difference on a race track, though.
other than what Jim has listed here, which is a great package, i'd upgrade to some good brake pads and rear shoes. might not hurt to run braided steel brake lines and some high end brake fluid. i've boiled mine from running it hard. 
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'64 Barracuda, 360, 4spd, 8-3/4.....lots of stuff done, but alot still to do
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(Neil) NChap4012
Newbie
Offline
Posts: 5
BigBlockDart.Com
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Mancini racing also sells the LCA plates $22.95
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dennis
Jr. Member

Offline
Posts: 20
BigBlockDart.Com
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dstrmtrinstalldo you use these LCA plates ontop/bottom and what purpose do they do? dennis
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Jim_Lusk
Official BS King
Global Moderator
BBD God
   
Offline
Posts: 4706
A-bodies since 1978, this one since 1983
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The LCA plates limit the flex in the LCA. They go on the bottom.
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7903 posts on old board.
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