Fuel gauge problem solved.

[guzzimike]

Well, I managed to pull off the voltage limiter from behind the fuel gauge with the dashboard still in place. It was a royal pain in the ass, and it took about 20 minutes but I did it. I cleaned all 3 contact spades and with the use of a hemostat, I snapped it back in. The hardest part of the operation was bending myself like a pretzel under and behind the brake pedal to access the back of the panel without removing the dash. The hemostats were indispensible.. I clamped onto one of the spades, maneuvered the unit up and through the maze of wires and struts, with the aid of a small flashlight to lite up the path, presented the 3 spades into their receptacles and pushed the Voltage Limiter in to make full contact. PRESTO..!

The Fuel gauge works flawlessly now.

While I was at it, I cleaned and remade all contacts for the wire from the Fuel sending unit..Thank you all for the help identifying the culprit.

[Lars]

Man, I can't believe you got that sucker out. You must be pretty limber. 

[guzzimike]

Man, I can't believe you got that sucker out. You must be pretty limber. 

I don't know about that...my hand is still cramping up

[440Ken]

What kind of problem were you having? My fuel gauge, when the tank is full, only registers 3/4. I replaced the tank float assembly.

[DartKnight]

What kind of problem were you having? My fuel gauge, when the tank is full, only registers 3/4. I replaced the tank float assembly.

I'm having the exact same problem you're having; except it will go all the way to "full" every once in a while. I was thinking of taking a look at the limiter also, since my temp gauge doesn't seem to read right, either (comparing the readings to my Autometer, anyway, which is obviously a lot more accurate)...

[BrianT]

Sounds like we are all in the same situation.  I fill the dart up, and the gauge only reads 3/4.  I thought it was probably the float in the tank hanging up.  What is the story with this voltage limiter?

[guzzimike]

My problem was a bit different..

Then  Fuel gauge read the level correctly, but the issue was that one day it would work, and the next it would just stay in the "Empty" position (Full left stop). This was intermittent and followed no particular pattern. Somedays it would work, some it would not. So I removed the voltage limiter from behind the instrument panel. The voltage limiter is  a rectangular device that measures approximately 1.25"  X .50" X .50". It has 3 spade connectors. Mine came off fairly easy from its socket. I cleaned the connectors and re-installed it.

if you are going to to this without removing the entire dash cluster, do yourself a favor and get a set of Hemostats. It's impossible to get your hand through the wires and struts to Re-Install the voltage limiter into its 3 sockets while holding the little bastid. The hemostats get throughin seconds. Then once the Voltage limiter is ilined up in its sockets, all you have to do is push it home with one finger.

One other thing, there is a Molex connector in the driver's side kick panel which contains about 8 wires coming from the rear, including the Fuel Gauge wire (Thick Blue wire in mine). Pull the connector apart and clean it. Mine had just a bit of corrosion inside. This was not the source of my problem, as this was the first thing I checked and cleaned, to no avail, but you can never have too clean a connection.

[440Ken]

Voltage limiter sounds like it may be the problem.....I forgot that it also controls the temp gauge too. I have always thought that my car rans very cool for a warmed over 440. The gauge  needle only goes over to the left edge of the operating range indicators. I've alway said I could idle for hours on end with out over heating  . Guess I need to get a limiter regulator....maybe gas and temp gauges will work correctly.
Just goes to prove....multiple heads are better then one. Thanks for everyones input.
Ken

[demon340v]

problem i have is my guage reads empty at 1/4 tank mark?! and i have thought for sometime that it was the sending unit as well.

My guage used to work but then all of a  sudden it stopped reading it at E, when i turn the car off the  needle will go all the way back down.


however for some odd reason i can only dump about 11 gallons in the tank when i fill it up all the way. can it be my sending unit?

[guzzimike]

It sounds to me as if your sending unit's float may have a puncture in it. It reads(floats) low while the ignition key is On, and rests all the way down when the key is Off (this is normal).

[demon340v]

It sounds to me as if your sending unit's float may have a puncture in it. It reads(floats) low while the ignition key is On, and rests all the way down when the key is Off (this is normal).

so it is that lil dude after all? another part added to my on going list of replacement parts that i need,

[Pro Street dart]

I sent my voltage limiter to a guy named " Mopar Mike". I takes them apart and converts them to electronic. I have not installed it yet.

I can get more info if anybody is interested.

[DartKnight]

Well, I finally decided to pull the limiter from the back of the instrument panel and see what was going on with my gauges. I found an extra regulator in my tool box left over from the 72 Dart I had, so I decided to put that one in and try it out. Anyway, after a while of cussing and scraping up my hand, I finally get it in and start the car. I heard a pop and saw a small flash; no reading at all on the temp and fuel gauges. I checked the fuses and they looked ok, although it was dark (I'll have to check them again tomorrow); I also managed to get my hand back up there and put the original regulator back in, but still no readings.

Oh well, looks like I'll have to pull the cluster and check the circuit board and gauges for damage. I'll have to check the fuses again, too. What a pain in the ass.     

[Dave_n_68_383S]

why on earth would you not just pull the cluster out ?