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Topic: upper ball joint removal (help please) (Read 527 times)
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6ix5ive
Guest
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Hello everybody
I have two questions which will probably can be categorized in the "bone head category".
1) I am trying to remove the control arm upper ball joints on my 1965 Barracuda with the larger ball joint socket (1973 and up A body (ø = 1.915")) and I can not get them to budge. Does anybody know any tricks to getting these off. I have been using a large breaker bar and have soaked the joints in oil. Is there anything else I can do?
2) My car is a 1965 barracuda with a disc brake upgrade. I need to rebuild the front end but I need to verify the year of my front end. As I mentioned above the Upper control arm is from a 1973 and up A body. Since the upper control arm is from a 1973 and up A body is it safe to assume I can order a 1973 and up rebuild kit for the front end? Or are some of the front end parts interchangeable with 1966-1972 A body front end parts?
Thank you for any help and have a good day
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70dart408
Jr. Member

Offline
Posts: 27
BigBlockDart.Com
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Leaving the upper control arm attached to the car I used some stuff call PB Blaster and let it sit over night. Next day went out using the special socket with a half inch breaker bar and a cheater bar on the end and both of mine came right out. (70 Dart Swinger) Good luck with yours!!!
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Jim_Lusk
Official BS King
Global Moderator
BBD God
   
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Posts: 4905
A-bodies since 1978, this one since 1983
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You need to use an impact OR a LONG breaker bar (4-5 feet). You need the rebuild kit for the 73, EXCEPT the pitman and idler arms. They need to be for the 65.
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7903 posts on old board.
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sweatybetty
Guest
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i use a small torch with a fat flame to heat stuff but not too hot then spray some penetrating oil. the heat expands the part a bit allowing the oil in the gap. you may want to get some other opinions on heating control arms though. anyone else?
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Lars
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Use an impact, that'll get them out. That's what I had to do to my 73.
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365/727/8.75 with 4.10's and a Detroit locker 
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A13Dart
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My socket is 3/4 drive and I use a breaker bar and long pipe like Jim says. Had to use a map gas torch on one project. When using the cheater it is nice if someone can hold the socket flush on the ball joint.
mike.
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dmn71
Jr. Member

Offline
Posts: 73
Coal Valley, Illinois
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Same as 70dart408, worked for me on the 71 demon. Steve
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Halfaed
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Use heat and then candle wax in it!  Doesn't stink so bad.
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rank
Guest
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Are you sure somebody hasn't welded the ball joint to the UCA?
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krabysniper
Full Member
 
Offline
Posts: 108
BigBlockDart.Com
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Only a TOTAL MORON would weld the balljoint to the control arm, and I do mean TOTAL 
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mopartranman
Guest
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Impact shoud do it. Or use a long breaker bar for leverage. Well... I must be a total moron.  Cause i tack weld them in when i replace them on drag cars. Seen several pop out race cars that carry the front wheels alot.
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GregZ
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Impact shoud do it. Or use a long breaker bar for leverage. Well... I must be a total moron.  Cause i tack weld them in when i replace them on drag cars. Seen several pop out race cars that carry the front wheels alot.  I've tack welded a few myself.
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