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Topic: diaphram vs. three finger clutch (Read 1501 times)
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268darts
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For a mild 360/4 speed will a diaphram last on the street or should I go with three finger? Anybody know what ft. lbs. the stock 11" pressure plate is?
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slow_motion
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most diaphram clutches just wont hold behind a stout engine. Although they are harsh in terms of powershifting and launching the car(its not meant for racing), i consider the duel friction setup from centerforce to be a decent setup that will hold a fair amount of power. It is a diaphram style but it'll hold more pressure the faster it spins because of the centrifical weights on it. For a moderate street car, that would be my choice. --chad
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Logged
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Formerly: 400dart, 4523 posts on old board. Recovering racing addict and turbo junkie
Life is just fine in the slow lane.
'85 D150 stepside, lowered, magnum 360 '96 Dakota,3.9, 2" drop, GenIII wheels '95 Ram, her truck '71 Duster, her car, 318/air, stock '20 Model T pickup, stock
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Tyler
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Don't use a diaphragm clutch. I agree with the recommendation for the Centerforce clutch in a mild streeter. A 360 with a 4 speed can be a fun combo. My brother had an original 1974 360 four speed "Cuda. He wishes he had kept it. Fun car with the four speed.
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arguing on the internet is like running the Special Olympics -- even if you win, you're still retarded.
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268darts
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Thanks Chad, Moneys tight right now and I was hoping to save a few bucks. Yeah, I know better. But I have never used a diaphram type clutch so I wasn't sure what to expect. Guess I'll get out the pry bar and open up the ole wallet. BTW are you the one that had the turbo Dart? If I knew anything about turbo's I'd like to build one. Where did you get all your info?
Phillip
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slow_motion
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You can put whatever clutch you want in the car, but understand that you know as well as we do that if you try too get on it and/or do some holeshots your going to smoke the cheap clutch. The pedal pressure on a 3 finger is usually pretty high, and you'll get clutchitis if you have to do alot of stop and go driving. Center force does make a a Stage 1 and Stage 2 clutch, but if you can swing it, the dual friction would be the way to go in my opinion for your car.
Yes, i am the former owner of that turbo dart. My info was mostly gathered off of turbomustangs.com. Alot of reading and watching what was going on there. A turbo is cool, to do it "right" isnt cheap though. I didnt know of all the "little things" when i started that car, and in the end, all the little things really killed me. It hasa good home know in New Jersey so you may see it again. I know the new owner is making some more headway with it.
--chad
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Logged
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Formerly: 400dart, 4523 posts on old board. Recovering racing addict and turbo junkie
Life is just fine in the slow lane.
'85 D150 stepside, lowered, magnum 360 '96 Dakota,3.9, 2" drop, GenIII wheels '95 Ram, her truck '71 Duster, her car, 318/air, stock '20 Model T pickup, stock
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268darts
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Thanks ya'll. Looks like the centerforce DF is going to get the go ahead. I was having thoughts about the cheap clutch putting hot spots on my flywheel. Aahhh...what's a few hundred more $ at this point. @!# Merry Christmas!
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PureGTS
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I cheat when it comes to manual trans & clutch combo's. I prefer the bisexual clutch disc. By bisexual,I means the clutch has two different materials on each side. The P/plate gets ceramic and the flywheel side gets a HP fiber material. This works best for some slippage around town and a garranteed lock up when under stress. The last time a used a fiber material with my 383 street engine the inside of my car looked like John Force was making a pass because of all the smoke inside the car. There was that much smoke and lack of lock-up. Of course with the bisexual clutch it had enough holding power to shear off an axle when I side stepped it at 4000RPM. Lesson learned!
Three finger only! Diaphrams are for truck air brakes!
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Logged
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Knowldge is power, power is speed, speed is good, low E.T. is better
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Dono
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Hmm I have never had a problem with the diaphram.....
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A13Dart
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I installed a centerforce in my street driven 383 roadrunner and didn't like it at all. I could never get used to the light clutch pedal feel. I'm old school so I'll stick to borg & beck heavy duties from now on, so what if my left leg is 1 1/2 times bigger than the right 
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Steve DeTar
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Diaphram clutches like to stay stuck on the floorboard when trying to shift at 6,000 rpm if you don't take the over-center spring off! Been there done that.
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268darts
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I had a friend tell me if a clutch is set up correct the pedal will not stick to the floor. I have always used a three finger pressure plate and the pedal has always stuck to the floor when shifting hard. Boooing....yeap that's the sound of the O/S spring getting yanked. Oh well I guess I will never know how to set one up correctly. <):
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Hemi GTS
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The thing I like about Center force is the fact They ask You to tell them about Your application so that the clutch can be done to meet Your specific needs.
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slow_motion
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Steve is right, but they way to get that to stop is to either adjust the pedal properly or add a pedal stop. I prefer to remove the overcenter spring and set the pedal close to the floor. the pedal only needs to move a few inches----not the whole distance a stock pedal will. Yes, it looks funky with the pedal almost touching the floor compared to the height of the other pedals, but having a proper working clutch is far more important to me than where the pedals are located.
--chad
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Logged
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Formerly: 400dart, 4523 posts on old board. Recovering racing addict and turbo junkie
Life is just fine in the slow lane.
'85 D150 stepside, lowered, magnum 360 '96 Dakota,3.9, 2" drop, GenIII wheels '95 Ram, her truck '71 Duster, her car, 318/air, stock '20 Model T pickup, stock
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