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Topic: Steering Coupler Roll Pin.......Somethinng's gonna get broken (Read 854 times)
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451 valiant
Full Member
 
Offline
Posts: 218
Ontario, Canada
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Alright before something gets smashed  I thought I would check with you guys. I just came in from the garage. The very last piece of the car to come apart (steering column) is being the toughest part on the whole car. I have soaked the pin in penetrating fluid for 2 weeks and used a roll pin punch and a huge hammer, no luck. So i thought I would drill the pin out, my cobalt drill bit won't even touch it. Then I brought the air hammer home from work tonight with a roll pin punch, won't budge. Does anyone have any other ideas? I thought about heating it, but kinda stayed away from that idea - I didn't want to the shaft itself to get too hot.. Should I cut the coupler off? Are they easy to find replacements for? Thank you for any advice, I would rather not have to dislodge my hammer from the drywall if at all possible 
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GTS225
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I'm not sure, but you may be fighting a taperd pin. Try to take a good close look at both ends of that pin. You might be trying to drive it out the "wrong" way.
Roger
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jamesdart
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it might depend on the model and year, but im pretty sure they only go in and out from one side. there is a stop in the hole.
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GON_RACIN
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the right size punch is really important. I fought with one for a few days before i went and bought the right sized punch, after that i had it out in just a few minutes. Most of the couplers i've seen have a counterbore on one side of the roll pin hole and not the other. You're supposed to install the pin from the side with the counterbore, and beat it out from the other side. Also, make sure the side of the pin you are beating on hasnt been braded or deformed. Those pins arent tapered its just a plain jane split roll pin. I've got a spare coupler here and i measured the roll pin hole, its just over 5/16 in diameter, so i'd use a 5/16 punch to start with. Once the pin gets moving you can step down to a 1/4 inch punch, it wont try to hang up in the roll pin hole like the 5/16 will. Good luck! 
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RR_Sweden
Jr. Member

Offline
Posts: 80
BigBlockDart.Com
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Hi I used my harmonic balancer puller to press it out 
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451 valiant
Full Member
 
Offline
Posts: 218
Ontario, Canada
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Thanks guys, I double checked and have been driving the pin out the right way. I've the tried the 5/16" roll pin punch, now I'll go try the harmonic balancer puller. THANK YOU
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mopar stu
Guest
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Hi I used my harmonic balancer puller to press it out  i must be missing something how to you use that to remove the pin
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Jim_Lusk
Official BS King
Global Moderator
BBD God
   
Offline
Posts: 4905
A-bodies since 1978, this one since 1983
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I had one that I had real trouble with. I think I wound up grinding the coupler away. One other thing that could help iw to have somebody hold the steering wheel (really important on older cars that don't have a steering column lock. You'll never drill a roll pin, either.
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7903 posts on old board.
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CFster
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I used a pitman arm remover and some creative thinking.
Putting the it back in was harder.
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Mark Nixon
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The pin comes out both ways, so it's foolproof. The BEST pin punch for that, BAR NONE, is a stock 318 pushrod. The pushrod trick is probably one of my better "junkyard tricks" that I use in practice.
If it doesn't come out with the pushrod, which is rarely, I'm good with a torch, so I burn them out.
Mark.
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Transporting cars and parts, long or short haul. I can deliver what I am selling. Contact me by phone at (402)-780-5127 or by e-mail at Nixon340@yahoo.com!!!
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451 valiant
Full Member
 
Offline
Posts: 218
Ontario, Canada
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Well, thanks again guys, I fianally go it out - combination of air hammer and harmonic balancer puller. The 318 pushrod is interesting, I'll have to remember that one. 
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