Pages: [1]
|
 |
|
Author
|
Topic: Primer, Paint and Spray Paint Suggestions Needed (Read 640 times)
|
6ix5ive
Guest
|
Hello
I really need some suggestions. I have my rearend and front suspension completely dissasembled ( rear axle housing, control arms, torsion bars, pig, etc...) I have sandblasted all the old rust, grime and paint off the parts. I was planning on reprimering all the parts with K200 and then painting them with a black paint that works with this primer. I did not want to open the can of K200 just to paint the rear end parts and front end parts because I do not want it to go bad. I was waiting to use it until I could primer the engine compartment and larger parts of the car. I may be moving so I need to get the car rolling faster than expected. I was thinking instead of opening the K200 and using only a little bit and risk spoling the remaining primer that I would use some other primer and paint that comes in a smaller can or even use spray cans. Does anybody have any suggestions on what kind of primer and paint I can use for this job. Is there any good spray can primer and paint out there?
Thank you for any reply and have a good day,
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
mopowers
|
How bout Rustoleum? I've always used their stuff on suspension parts and parts that no one sees because it is cheap and durable. Are you building a show car or a driver? The answer to that question may help you decide what to use.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
66 Dart GT: BB project. shooting for high 10's 2006 Dakota 
|
|
|
6ix5ive
Guest
|
I am building a driver/ strip car. I did think about Rustoleum because I liked the price but I was unsure of the quality.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
zman49445
Jr. Member

Offline
Posts: 34
BigBlockDart.Com
|
I had very good luck with red devil rust prevtative semi black, this stuff sprays nice and sticks to clean metal very nice have used on my trucks for 5 or 6 years and it still looks good [even in michigan winters] Z
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Girfriends may come and go but I still have my 68 dart gt!!
|
|
|
|
signet
|
i have and still use self-etching black primer it is sweet stuff expensive though.
SEM is the stuff i have experience with.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
eldubb440
|
rustolium is pretty much crap.......takes forever to dry. its cheap, need i say more??? u can buy etching primer in an aresol can, it dries in minutes and you can spray rite over it with either a quality spray bomb or some kind of enamel or urethane out of a gun. it will dry fast , with good adhesion and duribility.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Mopars, AMCs, and a pile of 65 Satellite
You're all worthless and weak; now drop and give me twenty!
|
|
|
|
caper
|
Go to Walmart and pick up a can of appliance paint made by Exell , the finish is unbelieveable , hard and durable, cheap.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
ucdcrush
|
Hello
I really need some suggestions. I have my rearend and front suspension completely dissasembled ( rear axle housing, control arms, torsion bars, pig, etc...) I have sandblasted all the old rust, grime and paint off the parts. I was planning on reprimering all the parts with K200 and then painting them with a black paint that works with this primer. I did not want to open the can of K200 just to paint the rear end parts and front end parts because I do not want it to go bad. I was waiting to use it until I could primer the engine compartment and larger parts of the car. I may be moving so I need to get the car rolling faster than expected. I was thinking instead of opening the K200 and using only a little bit and risk spoling the remaining primer that I would use some other primer and paint that comes in a smaller can or even use spray cans. Does anybody have any suggestions on what kind of primer and paint I can use for this job. Is there any good spray can primer and paint out there?
Thank you for any reply and have a good day,
I vote for rustoleum also. Lowes carries the professional line of rustoleum, which dries faster. I have used some (in "safety red") and that stuff dries rock hard. But it will not reach its max hardness overnight, it may be a few days or even a month before max hardness. Of course you can handle and work with it within 30 minutes, but without a hardener it does take awhile to fully cure. When it does, you'll be hard pressed to scratch it off. A big can of the stuff is about 5.50..
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
davidstarsky
Guest
|
I have a suggestion for you, use the Eastwood Company's primer and then hit your parts with their "chassis black." This stuff is fairly inexpensive, quite durable, and looks good for under car stuff like control arms, rear axle housings, etc. I have done 3 Mopars with this stuff, and my 66 Satellite still looks great underneath. It can be bought in spray cans, or as I prefer, quarts for spraying out of a gun. It is pre thinned, ready to spray. Here is a pic of an 8 3/4 in the semi gloss eastwood chassis black. OOPS! the file is too large, e-mail me for the pics
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
demon340v
|
I think when i painted my rear end i use Krylon's Flat Black it's part of their Military system i like the look it leaves when it's dry
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Alyways Imitated..Never! Duplicated~ Project El Diablo (71 Demon) 
|
|
|
|
Pages: [1]
|
|
|
 |