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Topic: Moving rear axle back 2"... (Read 1016 times)
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mopardad
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Has anyone here ever considered moving the rear axle back 2" to eliminate rubbing larger tires on the front of the wheel opening? I was thinking about doing this when I move the springs in. Does it sound like a good idea? Mike  |
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Logged
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Things go better with a BIG BLOCK!
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mopowers
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Im in the process of moving mine back an inch. With 2", make sure the shock isn't at too much oof an angle.
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Logged
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66 Dart GT: BB project. shooting for high 10's 2006 Dakota  |
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mopardad
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Thanks...I didnt even think of the shock angle.Ill have to do something with that, too.  |
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Logged
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Things go better with a BIG BLOCK!
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cu440da
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Moving it that far back may also hit the gas tank.
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Logged
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'67 Notchback- 12.85 @ 109mph
440, M1, modified 750 Holley, .509 cam, template ported 906's, ProParts, 3" x-piped mandrel bent exhaust, Spintech's, 4.10 Sure Grip, 3200 stall, CalTracs and mono's, RR hood bulge fresh air system
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Ryan (Strange246)
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I moved the Demon's back approx 1 1/4" with no problems at all...Shock angle is fine...
Ryan
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Logged
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mopardad
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Moving it that far back may also hit the gas tank.
It will have a trunk mounted fuel cell. |
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Logged
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Things go better with a BIG BLOCK!
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rank
Guest
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How did you guys do this?  ?? Shim the front spring hanger? |
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Logged
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mopardad
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Thats pretty much how I was planning on doing it, adding about a 2" spacer in there or fabbing a new box for the front of the leaf spring.
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Logged
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Things go better with a BIG BLOCK!
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A13Dart
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Don't think you need two inches. What type of car and how tall are the tires?
mike.
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Logged
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Ryan (Strange246)
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How did you guys do this? ?? Shim the front spring hanger? My leaf springs are relocated to the frame rails, so I just had to drill a new hole for the front mount... Ryan |
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mopardad
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Don't think you need two inches. What type of car and how tall are the tires?
mike.
Its a 72 Valiant, and I will be using the 29x10.5 Hoosiers. |
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Logged
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Things go better with a BIG BLOCK!
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mopowers
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I'm not sure about it, but make sure the rear shackle doesn't hit the rear frame crossmember. You may have to use longer shackles. Just a thought.
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Logged
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66 Dart GT: BB project. shooting for high 10's 2006 Dakota |
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Lars
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You guys that have done this, did you change/mod the shackles in any way? I was thinking about doing this to my 73 when I put an 8 3/4 in it so I don't have to cut the driveshaft (plus it'll be getting some tall rubber in there later on).
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Logged
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365/727/8.75 with 4.10's and a Detroit locker  |
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caper
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I moved my rearend back 1 1/2" , also put the springs inboard under the frame rails using te MP boxes. I also have mono leaf springs and Caltracs. The eye in the front of my spring is in the stock position , except that is moved in. The mono springs are a two peice spring , the center bolt attaches the two springs together , I had Calvert drill another hole 1 1/2 forward in the front half of the spring, this allowed me to extend the length of the front spring by 1 1/2" , therefore moving my rearend back by 1 1/2 ". Now when you drill a hole in your frame for your rear shackle you drill it 1 1/2 " back towards the rear bumper.This will keep the proper angle for your shackle. If you move back any further than 1 1/2 " I think you will be into the rear of the wheel well. I am running a 295 x 65 x 15 tire ( about 30" ) , it is very close to being centered in the wheel well.
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Cudadust
Full Member
 Offline
Posts: 211
BigBlockDart.Com
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The wheel bases on Plymouth A-bodies (Demon, Dodge Dart) are 108" and the Dodge ( Scamp) A-bodies 111", both models use the same springs. Wonder where Mother picked up three inches?
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Logged
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A13Dart
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Its a 72 Valiant, and I will be using the 29x10.5 Hoosiers. 72 Valiant would have different shaped wheel openings than my 68 Dart. I made temporary spacers to move my rear axle back 5/8" to clear a Hoosier 9x30 radial slick, it measures 29-1/4" actual. Might be best to mock this up with the stock front spring hangers and some spacers before installing your inboard spring kit. mike. |
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Logged
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68Valiant
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mopardad,
I moved my springs rearward 1.75" at the same time I moved them inboard on my 1972 Plymouth Scamp. I had no adverse problems from this.
I believe any more than that you will hit the rear cross frame rail at rear bumper with your shackel.
68Valiant
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Logged
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mopowers
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mopardad,
I moved my springs rearward 1.75" at the same time I moved them inboard on my 1972 Plymouth Scamp. I had no adverse problems from this.
I believe any more than that you will hit the rear cross frame rail at rear bumper with your shackel.
68Valiant
68Valiant: Did you drill your hole for the rear shackle any lower or is it at the stock height?? Also, did you use stock shackles? |
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Logged
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66 Dart GT: BB project. shooting for high 10's 2006 Dakota |
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68Valiant
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mopowers,
I used stock height and shackels. I will look for pictures.
68Valiant
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Logged
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mrhotrod
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I moved my rearend back 1 1/2" and am running a 28x10.5-15 slick on my 72 scamp. If you are planning on running slicks calculate enough clearance for tire growth. Before I moved mine back I cut a slick and they were 28" tall. and cleared but when running at the track they grew and rubbed. Just a thought for you.
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Logged
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1972 Big Block Scamp 9.80 @ 138mph
2006 Cummins Turbo Diesel Ram 4x4 Dually
1966 Plymouth Valiant Big Block Project Car
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Blue
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Just shifted mine back 3/4", redrilled the frame rail and moved the rear shackle back the same amount. Shocks used to clear fine but I had to mod the lower mount when the axle got a backbrace, now even those big 'ol rancho shocks clear.
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Logged
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"The man that say's nothing is impossible has never tried slamming a revolving door"
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Ciscodog
Guest
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I did that in my Satellite but I just drilled the hole in the shock plate and slid the rear back on the springs. Sounds a lot easier that the major mods you guys are discussing - would this work for you?
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Logged
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mopar stu
Guest
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I did that in my Satellite but I just drilled the hole in the shock plate and slid the rear back on the springs. Sounds a lot easier that the major mods you guys are discussing - would this work for you?
that changes the geometry of the rear, that may cause traction problems.not sure but i think axel/spring allignment is more important that spring/bodyweight allignment. |
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Logged
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mopardad
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I did that in my Satellite but I just drilled the hole in the shock plate and slid the rear back on the springs. Sounds a lot easier that the major mods you guys are discussing - would this work for you?
It might, but since I have the rear down and Im relocating the springs I figure I may as well make the adjustments there and be done with it. |
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Logged
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Things go better with a BIG BLOCK!
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Ciscodog
Guest
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I did that in my Satellite but I just drilled the hole in the shock plate and slid the rear back on the springs. Sounds a lot easier that the major mods you guys are discussing - would this work for you?
that changes the geometry of the rear, that may cause traction problems.not sure but i think axel/spring allignment is more important that spring/bodyweight allignment. Moving it back 2" isn't going to change any geometry. That part of the spring is pretty flat. What's important is that your pinion angle is correct, and that can be modified with shims. The slightly longer front spring section may try to wind up a bit, but if you've got decent springs and clamps that's not an issue. To each their own - just trying to help out. |
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Logged
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smitty72
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I had mine moved back just far enough to center the wheel in the opening. I dont tremeber how far it really was 1-2 inches, the springs are moved in to the frames rails the shop taht did the work had to adjust the shock plates a little to get the shock angle right but they didnt touch the top shock mounts
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Logged
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