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BIG DOG
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Is there a definite size to use for the subframe connectors? I see some use 3x3 x 1/8 some use 2x3 x 1/8
and some even use 1 1/2 3 x 1/8 .The 1 1/2 would fit up at the rear frame nice as none would have to be cut out there but it wouldn't go up on the frame much at the rear either also wouldn't tie into the floor.Good or bad to that I guess .I believe that I will use the 3x2 or are there better ways ? You could use a 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 then use a square channellthat would fit over the frame rail and over the 21/2x21/2 and weld that all in .
Please give me your thoughts!thanks.
Blair
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Who talked me into this Big Block Dart thing any way  I know who you are ! Some of the dumbest people I know.......know everything .........Funny about that! |
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1DART440
Full Member
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Posts: 312
BigBlockDart.Com
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I think the the 2x3x0.125 is best. The 3" works perfect for capping the rear rail and having the piece come up in the back floor ties things together well. Cutting the strip out of the floor isn't that much work if you have come this far.
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69 Dart / 440 / 727 / 3.91s / TTIs / Mini-tubbed / Rocky Mountain Dash / EFI coming soon
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Capt Jack
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arent there some weld-ins now that are laser cut to fit the floorpan and appear 'almost stock'?
anyone recall who makes those?
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BIG DOG
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Yes they are in the mags I think magnum force stuff.They would have to be butt welded along the floor. Would be nice if they were bent at the top and you could spot weld them on like the factory floor pans are.
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Who talked me into this Big Block Dart thing any way I know who you are ! Some of the dumbest people I know.......know everything .........Funny about that! |
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Tom1951
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I made mine from 3X2 but Comp Engineering, CA Chassis Works and Magnum Force all make them.
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"73 Dart Sport, 11.5 to 1, 446, Racer Brown STX20, Eddy's, M1 single plane, 850 Mighty Demon, TTI's and soon to be installed a AlterKation... τΏτ
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440 Scamp
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I did it a slightly different way. I used a 2x3" .125. Instead of capping the rear rail, I cut into the floor, cut out the front face of the rear rail and slide the 2x3" inside the rail. The 2x3 is slid about 10" inside the rear rail. The 2x3 is welded all the way around the front face of the rear rail as well as several rosette welds using 1" holes drilled along the 10" over lap section. It cuts into the floor pan a good bit, but to me that just ties it in that much better. Just another option. I tried to upload several pics but I think they're to big. I can e-mail some if you like.
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mopowers
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66 Dart GT: BB project. shooting for high 10's 2006 Dakota  |
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mopar_man72
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I have a couple pieces 2 x 2 x 1/8 laying out back that used to be part of a weight bench. they have 2x 5 x 1/4 plates welded to them. how well will this work if I use the plates to gusset the tubing? I've already used some of this steel to make a cargo platform for my reciver hitch, and it'll hold as much weight as anything ou can buy in the store.
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73 Duster: 440 auto- for now!
2000 Dakota Sport: 3.9 auto 4x4
2006 Freightliner Columbia - my home away from home
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mopar_man72
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another view
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73 Duster: 440 auto- for now!
2000 Dakota Sport: 3.9 auto 4x4
2006 Freightliner Columbia - my home away from home
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A13Dart
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NHRA rules limit the size to a maximum of 2x3x1/8, so don't go larger than that...ya might want to take it to the strip someday  mike. |
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farmington
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I used 2 x 2 for my duster. They still came through the floor, but only 1/4" to 1/2". cant even tell under the carpet. I got them from Auto Rust Technicians. in Deleware, I believe. I'm very happy with them.
don
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When in doubt, Whip it out!
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signet
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A13Dart
were did you get this information regarding a maximum size for the connector dimensions?
thanks.
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A13Dart
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I just realized I was looking in the NHRA rulebook in the stock/super stock section for subframe connectors. The other sections of the rulebook don't really have any specs on the size. Sorry for any confusion  mike. |
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b569rr
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 I think the the 2x3x0.125 is best. The 3" works perfect for capping the rear rail and having the piece come up in the back floor ties things together well. Cutting the strip out of the floor isn't that much work if you have come this far.
Tom
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BIG DOG
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I see some have a plate welded on the end of them then they weld around the plate to the front cross member. What is the advatage to this as opposed to just welding it to the cross member?
Also could you do your cut out for the rear spring relocation fit the relocation box in so that was correct.Then fit the tubing for the frame connectors.Get them so that they would both fit .Then tack them together then install as one peice and then weld in ...Seperate or together what I'm getting at I guess is why not make it as one complete peice from the front crossmember right out the rear tiying the relocation box and the subframe connector together?
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Who talked me into this Big Block Dart thing any way I know who you are ! Some of the dumbest people I know.......know everything .........Funny about that! |
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bOb shingler
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sounds like a great idea.
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"bOb Built" (no matter how many times it takes)  |
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mopar_man72
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any harm in welding in frame connecters w/ out the engine in the car? I haven't gotten my block back from the machine shop yet......might not get it put together for a while. If I don't weld continuously on one side what are the odds of twisting the body?
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73 Duster: 440 auto- for now!
2000 Dakota Sport: 3.9 auto 4x4
2006 Freightliner Columbia - my home away from home
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b569rr
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any harm in welding in frame connecters w/ out the engine in the car? I haven't gotten my block back from the machine shop yet......might not get it put together for a while. If I don't weld continuously on one side what are the odds of twisting the body?
You will be fine. I welded mine with the rear end up off the deck and the front sitting on its suspension. I just checked the body gaps and the doors shut good. Tom |
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74DDS
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Now how did you support the car? jack stands under the axle in back then what up front? Becuse don't you have to have all the weight on the suspension to have it he straightest?
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