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The 440 Conversion
Looks
better without a hood, do ya think? I used Schumacher mounts
and a stock trans mount to put it in. I had to slot the holes in the trans
mount where they bolt to the trans, as the 727 sits about a half inch forward
compared to the stock setup. This is with the v-8 k-frame. This motor was
in a 67 Dart with a slant 6 frame, and I believe the mounts for the /6
frame position the motor a little differently. In other words, depending
on the frame you have, even though you can get mounts for any application,
I dont think the motor sits in exactly the same place. With the slant 6
frame, the motor was level with the Schumacher mounts. I got the Schumacher
mounts for my V-8 frame and I had to shim the motor a half inch on the
driver side to level it. So, really, the exact position may vary depending
the car and k-frame you happen to use. |
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Once
I got the correct mounts, and notched the k-frame as per the instructions
for oil pump clearance, the motor and trans fit in as a unit. I put it
in by myself in an afternoon. I was actually surprised how easily it went
in. Now's a good time to mention that the 2" CPPA's will for sure put a
few dents and scratches in the passenger inner fender. The carb does clear
the hood, but any aircleaner will not with my current arrangement. I also
got the Schumacher torque strap, to make sure all the clearances I measured
would stay that way. |
Yes,
I promise I'll get a nicer breather soon:)
The headers pictured
are the Schumacher Tri-Y's. They're 1 5/8" - 2" -
2 1/2". they exit right near the T-bar like the HP exhaust manifolds. As
you can see, they clear the fender with room to spare. Although people
have been saying how this combo needs 2" primaries, It seems to like these
headers alot. Perhaps I've lost a few ponies on the top-end, but how often
do you run your street car at 6 grand around town?.... I dont either. All
the plugs can be changed with a socket, none of the plug wires melt, I
have power steering, and I can change the starter with a wrench or socket
in about ten minutes....How bad do YOU want 2" primaries? In the back I
have a temporary oil pressure gauge. NOT permanent:)
The radiator is from
a ford truck. I had to make my own brackets, but it was less than half
the price of a "custom" one. And it only took me about an hour to make
the brackets. Also you can see the brackets I made for the Dzus fasteners
for the hood.
The fuel system is -8AN
from the fuel pump, but just 3/8 stainless tube from the tank...one of
those parts I bought before I went with the 440. I'll change it if needed
later. |
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Here,
you can barely see how the pipes clear the PS box. They Y together right
there as they go behind the box and straight down under it.A few notes
on this side...I had to make a pretzel out of the oil dipstick to clear
the PS box...which is the reason for the bracket on the valve cover...breaking
the dipstick off would be a very bad thing LOL. It works fine, but its
pretty stiff. Also, you can see that the rear primary didnt clear the stock
column. I had to cut the outer sleeve and slide the bearing up near the
firewall to gain the needed clearance. Since the lower bearing doesnt have
a seat on the shaft, its a simple matter of cutting the outer sleeve where
needed and drilling two new holes to hold the bearing in place. The shaft
simply slides through it. Like I said before, I'm
not finished yet, as I need a whole set of gauges yet, plug wire dividers,
etc... The wiring mess is for temporary gauges....I simply HAD to hear
it run....you understand:) |
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