I'm back, and so is my 68 Dart.
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Thread: I'm back, and so is my 68 Dart.

  1. #1
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    I'm back, and so is my 68 Dart.

    Its been a while since I have been here, I have been working a lot, and traveling even more, but after a three month absence, I started working on the Dart again a few weeks ago. Here is the latest progress.






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    Super Moderator bremereric's Avatar
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    Looks good with those wide tires...not tubbed yet? Just have the inner fenderwell cut out in the back?
    Eric Bremer
    Tomball TX 77375

    1968 Dodge Dart 440 Big Block, Edelbrock Performer RPM Heads, Performer RPM intake, Holley 770 CFM Street Avenger, .541/.538 lift hydraulic roller cam, Harland Sharp 1.6 Ratio Roller Rockers..Crane Roller lifters..580 Final lift, MSD pro-billet distributor, MSD ignition, 355 Auburn Suregrip 8 3/4 rear end.

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    Senior Member 68fish's Avatar
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    Long time no see Fly. Glad you're back. Darts lookin' good. Whats the plan for the wheel tubs? Spring relocation?
    http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg53/jdavenport6/b-25011.jpg

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  6. #4
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    Both minitub and relocation, finishing it up this weekend. Had to buy some tools this morning, plumb bob, level, 4ft straight edge, welding blankets, and an angle finder. Does anyone know how much S/S springs will sag when the car is on the ground? I am going to guess at 1"
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  7. #5
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    I am also buttoning up the engine this weekend too, finally got the last part, pushrods.
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    Hey Flyboy...Looks nice. I'll be doing the minitub/ relocate thing soon enough.
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    Senior Member CudaDon65's Avatar
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    Hey fly, glad your back at it..Keep the pics and info coming.

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    Senior Member buck440's Avatar
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    lookin good

  11. #9
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    I have finally finished the mini-tub / spring relocation, I am now working on the rearend, installing a 4.56 LS 742. Wow, that was a shitload of welding! I still need to seam seal and undercoat the wheelwells, here are some more pictures, I have some more up-to-date pictures I still need to download off the camera later tonight.










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    Senior Member 68fish's Avatar
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    That looks great. I'm glad you posted these pic's cause the Tech Section is down and that was the only reference I had. I'd appreciate it if you could post any others. It'll help out a lot when I do mine.
    http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg53/jdavenport6/b-25011.jpg

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    All I can say, i way underestimated the amount of time it would take to do the minitubs and relocation! It was a lot of work and welding, but it was worth it, and relatively cheap too. About $200 in materials to mini tub and relocate the springs.
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    Super Moderator bremereric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by flyboy01 View Post
    All I can say, i way underestimated the amount of time it would take to do the minitubs and relocation! It was a lot of work and welding, but it was worth it, and relatively cheap too. About $200 in materials to mini tub and relocate the springs.
    Are you going to box in the part of the frame rail you cut out where the springs are going to be relocated...
    Eric Bremer
    Tomball TX 77375

    1968 Dodge Dart 440 Big Block, Edelbrock Performer RPM Heads, Performer RPM intake, Holley 770 CFM Street Avenger, .541/.538 lift hydraulic roller cam, Harland Sharp 1.6 Ratio Roller Rockers..Crane Roller lifters..580 Final lift, MSD pro-billet distributor, MSD ignition, 355 Auburn Suregrip 8 3/4 rear end.

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    Full Member demon1515's Avatar
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    Nice, what gauge of sheetmetal did you use for the minitubbing?

  16. #14
    Senior Member 68fish's Avatar
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    About how many hours you think you've got into the job? I think the old Tech section put it at about ten hours per side.
    http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg53/jdavenport6/b-25011.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by demon1515 View Post
    Nice, what gauge of sheetmetal did you use for the minitubbing?
    I ended up using 22 gauge, it was pretty close to the metal in the factory wheel well, maybe 20, but definately not 18.
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  19. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by bremereric View Post
    Are you going to box in the part of the frame rail you cut out where the springs are going to be relocated...
    I'm not sure I understand your question? What more would I need to box?
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    Super Moderator bremereric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by flyboy01 View Post
    I'm not sure I understand your question? What more would I need to box?
    The last picture you posted answered my question...see when you welded in into the frame rail how it looks boxed in now.....what are you running in your 742 pumpkin....it's also a good idea to box in your leaf spring perches...bend some metal around the tube and weld it to the sides of the spring perches and the axle tubes....everything looks really good..
    Eric Bremer
    Tomball TX 77375

    1968 Dodge Dart 440 Big Block, Edelbrock Performer RPM Heads, Performer RPM intake, Holley 770 CFM Street Avenger, .541/.538 lift hydraulic roller cam, Harland Sharp 1.6 Ratio Roller Rockers..Crane Roller lifters..580 Final lift, MSD pro-billet distributor, MSD ignition, 355 Auburn Suregrip 8 3/4 rear end.

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  21. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by 68fish View Post
    About how many hours you think you've got into the job? I think the old Tech section put it at about ten hours per side.
    I have about 4 hrs in the spring relocation with the Mancini spring boxes, and about 20 hrs with the wheeltubs. If you have never done it before, you will spend a lot of time thinking about where to cut and how to re-attach the tubs. I probably saved a bit of time figuring out the filler strips with cardboard.

    It was hard trying to figure out where is the best place to cut the boxes, There are some reference points even on both sides (see pic)




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  22. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by bremereric View Post
    The last picture you posted answered my question...see when you welded in into the frame rail how it looks boxed in now.....what are you running in your 742 pumpkin....it's also a good idea to box in your leaf spring perches...bend some metal around the tube and weld it to the sides of the spring perches and the axle tubes....everything looks really good..
    Its a 4.56 LS 742 rear
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