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440 block pics and drilling

154K views 151 replies 49 participants last post by  bOb shingler 
G
#1 ·
Here's some pic's for you guys that want to Modify for block for better oiling. Mopars main oil gallery is roughly a 9/16 bore all the way thru the block on both sides. The bad deal is every lifter passes thru each gallery meaning, you have 16 points of leakage, not including a massive leak in the # 4 main, which feds #4 cam journal, which is timed, to feed each rockershaft assy. All the holes in this late 77 440 block were a 1/4, these are the feed holes that come down from the passenger "Main" oil gallery. As you can see in the pic, #2, #3, #4, #5, are fed off of the main oil gallery. #1 is fed off the front which intersects the pass over passage that is cast into the front of the block from the oil pump pad.

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#29 ·
Steve DeTar said:
Here's the reamer
McMaster-Carr has one that looks just like that, their p/n 2995A66 in highspeed steel or 2975A42 in cobalt steel.

Is it always necessary to use a reamer?  ??? I bought a 12" long 9/32" drill bit from them (about the same price as the reamer and didn't require the 5" arbor too) and had no problem, although it felt better when advancing the drill very slowly. I suppose the concern is breaking the bit off in the block?  doh
-Charles
 
G
#30 ·
Yes, use a reamer if possible.  I've snapped off a few bits and to tell you the truth, I could'nt get it out, so I had to start over with another block.  Drill bits are very brittle and if used carefully, can be used.  But if you slip or accidently jerk the drill, it'll snap off.  A reamer is pretty solid and hard to snap.  I have used both steel and cobalt.  Just don't go crazy with the rpm's of the drill motor or it'll cook the tip.  When using reamers, you will have to push it thru. 

I have some part numbers:

The 4" arbor has a 1/4 collet, 1/4 drive.....CA 4500-1

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G
#31 ·
The 6" reamer, 1/4 drive, which is High Speed Steel........AP HS 5-01

Hopes this helps.  Also on the drilling, if you have a 90 degree countersunk, 1/2 wide, it will really deburr the holes real nice.  It also helps get the reamer lined up in the center of the hole.  Just don't go crazy with it.  When it's all put together, it is about 10" long.

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G
#46 ·
That is a little diff than the one I have. Is their a 1/4 hole in the end of that? We have some like that at work that we use also. All thats required is locking down the set screws so the reamer won't turn in the extension if you hit a hard spot.
 
#49 ·
If anyone wants to see what it looks like when a drill bit is used,pay the shipping and i'll send you a fully machine ready to assemble o-ringed 60 over block, with a brand new factory fresh broken bit pre installed inti the #3 main oil hole.

It's a bargain i tell yah....i'll even send the other half of the bit for no extra charge! lol lol lol lol lol

Tom
 
#50 ·
ABRASIVE said:
If anyone wants to see what it looks like when a drill bit is used,pay the shipping and i'll send you a fully machine ready to assemble o-ringed 60 over block, with a brand new factory fresh broken bit pre installed inti the #3 main oil hole.

It's a bargain i tell yah....i'll even send the other half of the bit for no extra charge! lol lol lol lol lol

Tom
Oh that sucks! Haha doh doh
 
#51 ·
We have a machine here at work that can burn that broken drill out. We use it to burn out broken drills and taps. Its kinda like an EDM machine thing. It has a electrode that is make from tubing an it burns the center out so the drill or tap can collapse. Can you possibly weld something to it and work it out? How much to ship to 43123 in OHIO????
 
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