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Screwing tires to the rim

13K views 19 replies 13 participants last post by  roccodart446 
#1 ·
I just got my Quick Time Pros for my car there 29X14.5s both Summit and the guy I had put the tires on for me said I need to screw them on with at least 5 inside and out the tire guy is a drag racer. I`ve been trying to see if you guys are running screws on your rims on a street/STRIP car. I have only ran slicks a few times on my own car long ago. I`m looking at 575hp/tq 4speed 456gears the drag racer said that I would spin the tire of the rim?
 
#3 · (Edited)
On the 1970 'Cuda that my brother-in-law and I own, we used eight fairly evenly spaced screws per wheel on the outside only on our 15x14 Weld Draglight wheels and 15x32 Mickey Thompson slicks. We did this back in the 80's, so I don't remember if the N.H.R.A. Rulebook had any specifics on this, but you might check out a current version of their Rulebook to see if they do.

The reason why screws are inserted is because of the combination of running extremely low tire pressures and the extremely soft side wall design of the slicks, which under severe torque loads generated at the starting line, especially with a 4 speed and 4.56 gears, could allow the tire to spin, or worse yet break the bead of the tire to the wheel which could lead to the tire coming completely off of the wheel.

Richard

 
#7 ·
I know this is late but I did want to say that I used to always screw my tires to the rims when I ran slicks with tubes. But now I run Hoosier radial slicks with no tubes and do not put any screws in the rim. Been like this for a good 5 or 6 years and never any problems and no flats. Thats running 15 to 16 psi in them. Ron

 
#10 ·
My history with rim screws is you need 12-16 per side, of wheel.. if you are going to 60' in 1.60s or lower. It may sound like ALOT of screws.. but it helps the wrinkles in the slicks to be more even.. If you use 6-8 there will be same amount of large wrinkles in side wall.. If you try it without them be sure to mark tire and wheel in same spot to keep check on tire slip..
 
#11 ·
Re: screws placed into rims/ legal issues from the manufacturer

I have changed over to 440 in my 67 dart and was going to place the usual screws into the
outer rim as seen at the track to prevent rear tire rotation.
When I called Centerline the tech rep stated it is not their recommendation to drill into
their aluminum rims. The assumption here is a liability due to the alteration of the rim's
integrity. So the bottom line is legally they say NO. You decide ?
 
#12 ·
rim screws

I have changed over to 440 in my 67 dart and was going to place the usual screws into the
outer rim as seen at the track to prevent rear tire rotation.
When I called Centerline the tech rep stated it is not their recommendation to drill into
their aluminum rims. The assumption here is a liability due to the alteration of the rim's
integrity. So the bottom line is legally they say NO. You decide ?
I ran 7 screws per side on most all my slicks, some were 14.5 x 32`s , some of the cars, and even the truck were 1.50 and faster 60 fts., no problem. bob
 
#15 · (Edited)
Steel rims vs Aluminum rims with screws?

First off I'd like to thank all those who offered advice on the screw issue. As far as weather to
use them or not is probable not what I should have asked for my application.
the point I failed to make is I have a perfectly good set of Ansen ALIMINUM rims with
285-50-15 Mickey Thompson's on them. I was going to use them at the track till I spoke to the
manufacturer and was told don't drill the bead !
the end result is that if I feel the need to drill I will have to purchase a set of "Steelies" on which to mount the tire of my choice. Sorry for the confusion, my bad.
 
#17 ·
if you run tubes you need them,i runs 8 per side,before you go screwing,which the wheels should if been screwed before tires installed,put a mark on tires and rim and pull a few launchs at your drag strip,tire shouldn't move no more that 1/2 to 1 inch on rim,if it does you need screws
 
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