68 valiant big block swap - Page 4
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Thread: 68 valiant big block swap

  1. #61
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    i collected the slot mags monday after work, all drilled to fit ford/mopar 4 1/2" pcd. so good for the 9" ford rear axle and also the front hubs once they too are redrilled from the small mopar 4" pcd to the bigger 4 1/2" so only one spare wheel will be needed.
    i got the wheel nuts from work but wasn't happy with the washers, i thought they were a bit loose on the 3/4" shank of the nut. to be fair all the lug nuts i've ever had have been the same but i can make the fit better so i got washers for 11/16" shank nuts and opened them out to suit on my lathe, 'cos i can. they are now a nice sliding fit so with a dab of copperslip i'll be happy. the shank is a bit long for the thickness of the front wheels but they won't take long to turn down. i've really missed having a lathe so i'm enjoying getting to use it

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  3. #62
    BBD LEGEND qkcuda's Avatar
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    I've always said that there is nothing on my car that I didn't have to modify somehow.

  4. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by qkcuda View Post
    I've always said that there is nothing on my car that I didn't have to modify somehow.
    agreed, and not always because you 'have' to. sometimes because you just 'want' to, because you can make it 'better'

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  6. #64
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    i got the wheels mounted to the axle and i've got some measurements of overall width which is 67" and distance between the tyres at 42". i can add a little once there's a disc each side between the halfshaft and wheel but only about 3/16" per side. the valiant's outside under it's new cover as i've got that anglia back in for exhaust, gauges and a couple of other jobs. these jobs all pay for my car so....
    anyway, pics.
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  7. #65
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    so the latest purchase for the valiant is a tunnel ram...... for a 440. yes my engine is a 383 but when did you last see a 383 tunnel ram for sale? why a tunnel ram? i can easily fit 2 impco 425 gas mixers on top, each will support up to 325hp so i'm good for future tuning (stroker, heads, cam etc) while still being comparably cheap to run.
    anyway the plan is to 'narrow' the 440 tunnel ram by either cutting a section out of the middle of the base or sectioning both sides through the runners. either way it's only metal so it's doable. i'll be collecting it near the end of may (i'm in the area then) as i'm not in a rush for it and i'm too tight to pay postage.
    neil.

  8. #66
    BBD LEGEND qkcuda's Avatar
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    So the turbo is on the back burner?

  9. #67
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    for now, yes. the 383 will get a freshen up with the tunnel ram, lpg, mild cam and the headers i have. i want to use it next year and the money's not there at the moment for the decent motor required of a turbo build. i'd rather have it on the road useable while i save for the better motor than it sit there and i lose interest. i still have to do more research on turbo's and lpg too, maybe sequential injection of the lpg?
    cheers, neil.

  10. #68
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    so the latest purchase for the valiant is a tunnel ram...... yes another one . i mentioned on the MMA forum i'd bought a 440 one to cut up and dave billadeau said i've got one for a 383 you can buy. so i thought it would be rude not to and did.

  11. #69
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    the tunnel ram arrived today (the 2nd, correct one) so it's be rude not to sit it on the motor for some pics. the plenum looks to have been port matched to the base which'll save some work. i'll replace the hex head bolts with nice rounded button head allen bolts too.
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  12. #70
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    so i decided to make a start on the straight tube axle for the valiant today. i got the mk2 ford transit axle ends complete some time ago. they're from a twin wheel mk2 but other than solid discs and 2 pot calipers they are the same as earlier mk3 transit too (they had vented discs and 4 pot calipers). what i needed to do was cut the twin wheel mounting 'bell' bit off of the hubs and turn the face flat, then countersink the bolt holes for the disc mounting bolts and drill the pcd i want in between them on the face. i cut through about 3/4 of the way on the lathe then used a slitting disc for the last bit. i also cut the ribs off with the grinder before using the lathe to flatten the face properly. i've measured and marked the face to drill the stud holes but i've got to get studs so i can drill the holes the right size.
    next i need 2 bosses to weld to the tube i have, so i cut the end off of the axle 'stump' with the grinder and welded the cotter pin hole before i turned it down 'til it was all the same size. i'll strip the other side apart tomorrow and get the machining done.
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  13. #71
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    this afternoon dawn (the wife) was tidying cupboards in the loft and found some old photos. i had a look and here's some of the 74 challenger and the 65 dart i had.
    the challenger was i guess an old race car when i got it, very 70's with radiused rear arches and jacked up all round. i used mk2 escort estate front arches on the rear, made lower 1/4's from sheet and cut a mk1 cortina sill for the rear valance. i lowered it stupid low and had to fit a 1/4" skid plate under the driver side header as it was only 1 3/4" off the ground (skid plate reduced that to 1 1/4" but it was sacrificial). the 14" wheels didn't help either. i carpeted all the inside as it only had the 2 front seats. it was a 318 car with some tuning bits, 340 heads, cam, victor inlet, double pumper holley, headers and a full gold moroso dress up (it was the 80's). it had the full gauge cluster, was a console bucket seat car with factory ratchet shifter (slap stick?) and lsd and the vented hood. again, it was the 80's so excuse me the heartbeat graphic stripes i painted on it in cellulose as was the orange itself (lots of flatting and buffing by hand ).
    next the 65 dart, originally a /six car i fitted a 440/727 and went for a super stock vibe. i spent 3 days making the fenderwell headers which had 36" long 1 3/4" primaries. the rrear axle was from a dodge diplomat and the rear arches were from a 90's transit. the body was very rusty so we spent weeks after work replacing the rot before i gave it an off white paint job and burgundy stripes with gold lace over them. not forgetting the name, a race car's gotta have a name right? i had the bench seats retrimmed, i made new door cards and fitted all new door/boot rubbers which made it a lot quieter.
    i don't know about scanning pics so took pics of my pics so excuse the grainy quality 8-[
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  14. #72
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    dart pics
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  15. #73
    BBD LEGEND qkcuda's Avatar
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    Nice projects!

  16. #74
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    i ordered a motor plate yesterday. i'll be removing the k member, torsion bars etc anyway when i install the tube axle so i need somewhere to hang the motor from. it'll stop me worrying about the rubber mounts breaking too so win win.

  17. #75
    BBD LEGEND qkcuda's Avatar
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    This project has kind of taken a whole different direction since your first post, what with the straight axle and tunnel ram, but then again your screen name is Mygasser. LOL

  18. #76
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    i still intend to turbo the 383 (either single or twin) later on with the lpg and tunnel ram so that'll be interesting to work out.

  19. #77
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    GOOD/BAD vibrations

    Quote Originally Posted by Mygasser View Post
    i ordered a motor plate yesterday. i'll be removing the k member, torsion bars etc anyway when i install the tube axle so i need somewhere to hang the motor from. it'll stop me worrying about the rubber mounts breaking too so win win.
    The motor plate sits or mounts to the frame rails.Hope this set up works for you but you WILL FEEL every cylinder fire and may be not the best chioce if any street use is used.

  20. #78
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    i'm ok with that, i put a 440 in a 65 dart a few years ago and i swapped solid mounts onto that. the fenderwell headers i made were hitting the inner fenders ( they went through up near the hood hinges so pretty wide) when the motor rocked on the rubber mounts. that car was my daily and it was fine. if i'm less tolerant now i'm older i'll make some chassis brackets with poly bushes to bolt to the plate.
    cheers for the input though, neil.

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