Machining factory crank
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Thread: Machining factory crank

  1. #1
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    Machining factory crank

    Guys, I have a question. I dropped of my factory forged crank at a machine shop for a once over (crack test etc) to see if it was worth using, it came back with it being machined 030 on the mains and 020 on the rod journals. When I told an engine builder whom is helping me build it, he lives 2 states away, he said it shouldn’t have been machined as it was done without the engine block. I am waiting on main caps from Canada. He is blowing up hard saying it shouldn’t have been done.

    So my question is: the crank is machined, nothing I can do about it, what’s done is done. Obviously when I get the main caps, I will get a line hone, can I still proceed with my build? He is carrying on like it is the end of the world and its not worth doing because I don’t know what my clearances are right now. Where do I go? I can’t really see a reason why I can’t proceed, the machine shop has already found a set of bearings to suit the new machining job of the crank, and found the bearings easily, a set of Clevite bearings.

    Thanks in advance.

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  3. #2
    BBD LEGEND qkcuda's Avatar
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    I have no idea why he is getting upset either. Buy the bearings for the stated undersize. You will have to check the clearances to see if they are within factory specs. He may have been after a specific looser clearance. I am not positive, but I would think you could just polish the crank if they are too tight. I never had an issue with factory clearances. My current engine is on the loose side, and I just use thicker oil (20W50). If the main caps came form another block the line hone is a must.

  4. #3
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    The main caps are brand new alloy ones, so a line hone will be taking place. I already spoke to the machinist about using a thicker bearing, he pulled up a whole bunch of clevite bearings on the computer within seconds, just the ones I need, so there is no special order, they are an off the shelf item, so nothing custom which is good

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  6. #4
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    Yeah, its no big deal. I did the same thing, dropped off my rods and crank to get re did. Your engine builder will just need your crank to set main bearing clearance. Maybe thats what he meant by needing both the crank and block together at the same time.

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