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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
been a while since I've posted and I'm finally starting on the chassis - got a B-Body 8 3/4 rear for $100 complete - couldn't pass it up.

Now the issue is that I can go thru the spring location shuffle, or since I'm sure I'll go Dana eventually - move on to a Competition Engineering 4 link setup with coil overs.

The end goal of the dart is by no means drag only. This is pure street, and maybe a lap sometimes around a twisty course for fun. The power plant is stroked low deck with turbos and efi. So the end result needs to be good launchability - but if I can cut 1.8's on Drag Radials I'll be fine with it.

I was thinking that the CE 4 link setup, not the Magnum series should work, a set of the CE bolt on Coil overs with a pan hard bar - could be used on the 8 3/4 I have now and then on a dana later. I've got a set of the A-body .920 torsion bars - and will be working on the front setup after this - regardless - from your experience with A-body mopar's will the 4 link give better handling and still good traction on the launch, or would I be better with a SS/pinion snubber setup? Or would a ladder bar setup work best (to me I've ruled out ladder bar in favor of 4 link)
 

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I just went through the whole 4-link thing for the street and here is what Chassisworks sent and the reason...  Oh, and I am setting up for rally and road handling.

Chassisworks ProStreet 4-Link.  This has poly bushings rather than heim joints which will allow for more unequal axle movement without binding.  No one else has bushings other than the heim type.  Also for street usage it is quieter.

Panhard rod.  If you are keeping the stock frame rail / 4 link spacing (greater that 30-inches) the diag. link is too long and will deflect causing a torsional springing effect in the chassis and in extreme conditions like getting the car crossed up with sticky tires it may buckle so either a panhard or wishbone is required.  If frame rails are set in to 30-inches apart or less a diag link must be used as the circle radius on the panhard is too tight and will shift the axle side to side too much.  So each one has it's place.  The wishbone requires quite a bit more chassis modification to use and consumes more space.  It appears to me that the wishbone is best suited for truck based chassis.
 

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ttmott said:
Chassisworks ProStreet 4-Link.  This has poly bushings rather than heim joints which will allow for more unequal axle movement without binding.  No one else has bushings other than the heim type.  Also for street usage it is quieter.
Thats funny...Morrison chassis has them...and he was building chassis when Chris Alston was still filling his diaper with the brown stuff.. lol lol lol
 

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The reason the bars need more movement is the unequal amout of twisting you get when pulling into driveways. Real race cars don't have to contend with this, hence the heim joints do just fine. Those of us that have to deal with pulling into driveways while being chased by rabid transit busses learn the importance of having a forgiving suspension. No twisted/bent/damaged tubing here!
 

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think long & hard before cuting your car up. there is alot to be said for SS springs, 4 link set ups dont come cheap but I did go the whole hogg on my one,

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Here is the Chassisworks Pro Street 4 Link kit I just got.  Nice stuff - about $1200 to the door.

Some Assembly Required....

 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Nice looks like fun.


I built a old school leaf link for the street. I am not sure why there is not more of you guys using them. You can build them your self and it is in the chassie bible. You can still lift the tires with it and on the street for that matter. No hanging down crap and all the bars are up above the rear so unless a guy gets on the ground no one will know it is not just a leaf car.

Don. -0*(
 
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