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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm wanting to plan out my mini-tub project and would appreciate some information and advice.

I was thinking I could go for a 335/30-18 tire. This tire is just over 13 inches wide. Will that fit with a standard mini-tub? Is there anything special I need to know about a mini-tub on a convertible?

That 335 tire needs something like a 12" wheel (or more), but the style wheels I want, something like the American Racing Torq-Thrust II (pictured below) and everything I can find like it is offered no wider than 10". Does anyone know of a wheel in this stype that could be bought with custom backspace in a 18"X12"?

Thanks,
John

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yea that looks like a mighty fine car, i would sell it and buy a 6 cyl that right there would finance your project

but as jim said, its your car
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys, but it's a clone, originally a GT. Sorry I didn't mention that originally. I just bought it already done, and some of it needs to be done over. I want to make it a retro-mod driver, with big wheels, big tires, big brakes, big motor. Any tips or info would be much apreciated.

John
 

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Oohh, oohh, oohh!!!! Join our "late technology Hemi" in an A body club! It's a small club right now, but growing. Bill has the AlterKtion dialed in for either the 5.7 or 6.1 and TTI finally has the headers dialed in. TTI now makes a header (Bill's design) exclusively for these Hemis with Bill's AlterK. I'm building a '69 Cuda fastback with the 6.1 w/5sp Tremec. Everything's fitting REAL nice. You could put a TF behind it if you'd prefer and it would be a little easier. Ad the big disc brakes, the mini tubs and that tire/wheel combo and you'd have one hec of a GTS convertible! Come join the fun!!!
O.J.
 

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what about the cage ? I don't care about what it is or was, I do care that I saw a convertible rolled once, It almost decapitated a 16 yr old girl. (yes she is dead) Top bows are simply long razors inside cloth remember that. Personal opinion is convertibles make horrible hotrods. They are good drivers, parade cars, etc but at 140 mph I want a roof and cage. I think the drop top is awesome don't get me wrong just not a car that should be considered for high speed competition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the responses guys!

The "late technology Hemi" club sounds very cool...but I have the BB K-member and a couple of 440's remaining from the 440 dart I built in high school - 25 years ago, so that's the direction I think I'm going, probably a stroker w/ EZ heads...  What would you pay for a 6.1 and a 5 spd?  Do I have to have the alterKtion to make it work? 

I want to put in a roll bar (not cage) and tie it together front to back for strength (I've already tied the frames). Does anyone have an example of a nice roll bar job done on a convertible street car?  I would love to see some pictures.  It's not going to be a race car, and I don't have much interest in going over about 120 in it.  I have another car for top speed.  I might just gear it to top out at a reasonable speed. - like 1/8 mi. fast.  Maybe 0-100mph and back to 0 very quickly is a good goal.

I've talked to Doctor Diff. about the SVT 13" brakes, and I think I'm going that way.  If Mr. VISA says go, maybe I'll spring for the Brembos.  Would the big Wilwoods be a better choice?

I noticed the flat tops on the convertible wheel wells and I see why I need to maintain that shape to have top storage - thanks Jim.  Will that 335/30-18 fit within the mini-tubbed openings?  Does anyone know where I can buy 18X12" wheels with custom backspace in the stype that I posted?

Other than those who would disagree with the style and concept I'm going for, does anyone see where my plan is flawed or could be improved?

Thanks for your help and input.

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Nothing? No info, help or advice? That's no way to treat a newbie... It's not like a bought a Chevy or something.
 

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My rear tires have an actual section width of 13.375 (advertised 13.5) and have 11/16" clearence on each side of the tire. Look at my post in the tire and wheel section page 2 for details.

69 GTS Clonvertible has a beautiful 440 6 pak in his Convert.

Just my opinion only. Those factory wheel covers are unique, not common and absolutely perfect for your car. Love the red lines.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks Dangerdawg.

Tom, Your set-up looks awesome. The 335/30-18 I want to use has a section width of about 13.5", so I guess I can make that width work as you did. That's a smaller diameter tire, but I guess that will help since I the wells are not as tall in the convertible, and I don't want the rear to sit too high. I noticed you did't narrow your housing. That seems like a good option, just having more wheel backspacing, or positive offset (if I have that right). I was thinking of doing the same thing since I think that style of wheel would look better without a deep dish, so the frount and back wheels would look about the same from the outside. Where did you get that rear sway bar set-up. That's sweet! Thanks.

I wish someone had a tip on that style of wheel that could be bought in a 18X12".

Has anyone gone with the 13" 6 piston Wilwood set-up? Any opinions on how it would compare with the SVT/Brembo arrangement?

Thanks,
John
 

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I didn't narrow the housing for that reason. I didn't want the deep dish look.

The rear sway bar is home made. The bar is narrow bar from the front of a Super Duty '98 - '03 F-250.

I don't know anything about aftermarket wheels. I have always run factory appearing stuff.

Tom
 

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Might want to call American racing and ask them if they make them. You could also call Colorado custom wheels, or Coys custom wheels. You can get their numbers in the street rod mags. Dave
 

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dartracer said:
Might want to call American racing and ask them if they make them. You could also call Colorado custom wheels, or Coys custom wheels. You can get their numbers in the street rod mags.    Dave
ya if you want custom offset wheels[i've looked into it lots] you have to go to some of the big custom wheels place's like dartracer mentioned and also boyd codington,billet specialties....the only thing is the wheels are very expensive close to 1000$ per wheel....the rear custom ofset 22's for my coronet are going to cost 1400$ per......actually as i'm writing this american racing has the torque thrust up to 20'...can't remember width but their at least a 10in wide deal......or you could go to  something close to what's on my car[came on a factory dodge]....18x8.5....and since they are aluminum they can also be widened ...

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Stretch out the wheel base a couple inches if you want it low.... that way you can gain some bigger ( taller ) tubs.

SIKPUP ;D
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
"Tom - When something looks that good, I think you should call it a "one-off custom", not "home made".

Dave and Fasttcars - I look's like that what it's going to take.  I did hear back from Boyd's and they will do them for something like $825 a wheel, and I have to allow 90 days.  I believe I've read that I shouldn't order wheels until the mini-tub is done and the springs & rear are installed, so that will be a painful wait...

SIKPUP - Thanks for the tip. I think the smaller diameter (25.9") tire should help.  I will keep it in mind.  Did you save room to put the top down, or is your car stictly for the track?

By the way guys, NICE CARS!

Thanks,
John
 

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68droptop said:
Thanks for the responses guys!

The "late technology Hemi" club sounds very cool...but I have the BB K-member and a couple of 440's remaining from the 440 dart I built in high school - 25 years ago, so that's the direction I think I'm going, probably a stroker w/ EZ heads...  What would you pay for a 6.1 and a 5 spd?  Do I have to have the alterKtion to make it work? 

Other than those who would disagree with the style and concept I'm going for, does anyone see where my plan is flawed or could be improved?
John,
I work with a guy that just purchased a 6.1 hemi and a 5 speed and it is costing him approx. $10 to 13 K just for those 2 items, and he is still buying parts for the conversion. I'm not saying that you can't find a used 5.7 for 1,500 to 2,500 and then have it cranked up to a 6.1 for a few thousand more. This guy is putting the 6.1 and 5 speed into a 62 Plymouth Fury Convertible, and yes he purchased an AlterKtion from Bill. I'm not sure if you can use the stock Mopar BB k-frame or not maybe someone else can chime in and let you know. This guy I know actually bought the AlterKtion Because Bill has already got it engineered for the 5.7 and 6.1 Hemi application, all that you do is remove the old K-frame and install Bills set-up, another plus was the handling capability versus the original, the original set-up handled like a big old boat in the water, and with the AlterK it should handle much more like a modern car. Ask anyone on the board that has the AlterK set-up. If you want to keep the original BB K-frame and stuff a 440 into your 68 Vert that will be just fine. I guess what you need to ask yourself is do you want power or manual steering. I have manual steering in mine, but I only drive it on weekends and special events. If I had the $$ I would Purchase an AlterK from Bill and swap out my original BB K-frame just for the added convenience of taking corners faster and not breaking my arms to try and turn the wheel on my Vert.

As far as mini-tubbing goes, for wider and slightly taller tires I'm all for it, but keep in mind what was said about the height of the wheel house, it needs to be the same or you wont be putting the top down all the way, another item to look at is when you mini tub it, the back seat will need to be cut down and reskinned to fit with the mini-tubs, and your trunk hinges will need to be modified slightly and the braces for the rear top quarters the crossmember that your back seat attaches too, the pot metal strip on the back of your seat that holds the top boot when the top is down, and probably some other items I can't remember at this time. My suggestion to get a taller tire would be to have a set of leaf springs made-up with a taller arch so the wheels are further away from the inner wheel house, also moving the rearend back 1" to 1 1/2" can gain some clearance at the front wheel house for taller tires also.
I hope this helps you out, Here is a pic of mine before assembly it looks like there is a bit more to mini tubbing a vert then a hard top.
By the way mine is not mini tubbed.
Shawn santa4
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks Shawn. Great looking car.

That AlterKtion looks awesome, but it might have to wait for phase two (or three). I want to see how good I can get the front end with alll new stock parts, stiffer bushings, and tubular upper control arms. I've already replaced every part in the front end and purchased the control arms. I'm waiting for my spindles to come back from the shop for the ream to use the big ball joints. I'm putting my '72 four piston disk set-up on it just to get it on the street and shake it down with the stock tires as it appears in the picture. Thanks for the heads-up on the mini-tub issues that I was not aware of.

I need to decide how much I can get done by Spring. I would like to try to do a lot, but I don't want to attempt more than I can complete and have it on stands in the garage all summer. If I have to wait 90 days for the wheels after I complete the tub and rear, I guess I should wait until Fall.

Then again, I know where the frame rails are and where the outer edges of the wells are. If I'm not going to narrow the rear housing, why couldn't I do all my measurements now and get the wheels on order. Does anyone have an opinion on this? Is the theory correct?

I need to replace the axles for the bigger bolt pattern, should I worry about replacing them before I do the measurements? It would have to be the same with the new axles, wouldn't it? Has anybody tryed this (order wheels in advance) without screwing up?

John
 
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