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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1971 Plymouth Valiant 4-door /6 904

When I first got my Valiant. It was not licensed or driven since 1985. There had been rust in the gas tank and it clogged the fuel sending unit. My father pulled it out and I cleaned it reall well. We put it back and then fuel guage stoped working. When I turn the car on, the guage goes below E but it moves from when the car is off.

Does anyone know of anything I could check to try and get the fuel guage working? I am not 100% sure it worked before we got it running, but I think it did.

Second, When I turn my headlights on, My blinkers come on solid. I cant find the flasher for the turn signals, I found one for the 4-ways, but nor for the blinkers. I have to manually flash them, but when My headlights are on, I have to use hand signals becuase the blinkers are already on and wont flash with the headlights on.

Does anyone know where the turn signal flasher can is, and what might be cuasing them to come on with the headlights?

Any help would be greatly appreciated, I am trying to get this car in good running condition so I can drive it, but I dont want to get pulled over.
-Mike
 

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The turn signal lamps are two-filament and one of them is on with the headlights (probably, they are on 67s and not on 68s, but I'm sure the later years are like 67). The turn signal flasher is located near the ash tray (at least one of the flashers is), the other flasher is on the steering column support bracket (or brake pedal bracket). It is very likely that the fuel sending unit is bad, also could be a bad connection or bad float on the sending unit.



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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks, I found the one by the steering coulum but I was not sure where the other one was, I will look behind the ashtray. So could my bulbs be bad or could the flasher cuase the lights to do that? Even the little green arrows come on when the headlights are turned on. I had a 74 duster and it didnt do that so I think that they are suppoesed to stay off when headlights are on.

thanks for the help, I will go check after the rain,
-Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I know the flasher switch is off, but that is what I was wondering is the ground or wiring. I am thinking of just following the wires from the tail lights see if there is a break in the line or if there is anything broken. It is raining here so Ill have to wait till later, but I think the turn signal flasher can is bad, still have to find it.

thanks for the help,
Mike
 

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On the fuel gauge issue, is there a grounding strap and/or did it get put back on? It's a small strip of metal that snaps in place over the rubber fuel tubing to connect the fuel line to the sending unit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
my dad did the work and he says that the grounding strap went right back on the way he took it off. thanks for the input,
Mike
 

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it might be this i just copied and pasted the story from another place


Stanley L. Martin warns us to never assume electrical problems are benign. His 1973 Dart Swinger's temp gauge had stopped working, and he figured it was just a bad connection. The next problem was the gas gauge, which read low. Five days later, the needles pegged, and he smelled smoking electronics. He tried to make it home, and notes:
If YOU start having gauge problems, including unexpected low readings, pull the instrument panel fuse (#6 on his 1973) AS SOON AS POSSIBLE.

By the time he did this, his board was fried. As he said:

On the back of the instrument panel, top center, is a little rectangular device called a "voltage limiter". It reduces the normal 12v to a lower voltage for the fuel and temperature gauges. And mine was failing and had finally given out completely.

The good news is that as of 7/17/95, this part is still available from Chrysler Corp. The bad news is that if it fails completely, as mine ultimately did, you may burn out BOTH your fuel and temperature gauges. Mine are both kaput. Fortunately, both gauges are also still available from Chrysler (barely) but be prepared to pay a good price (~$50 each) for them.

My factory service manual warns that apparent voltage limiter problems can also be caused by a poor instrument panel ground. On the Valiant/Dart panel, the ground is provided by three metal tabs behind the bottom three instrument panel screws. Be sure these are tight and that the tabs are making good contact with the metal dash supports behind them. Normally I treat screws through plastic panels pretty gingerly, but knowing that these have metal behind them, it should be OK to tighten them down pretty firmly.

Incidentally, if you have to pull the #6 fuse, you will also lose your oil pressure warning light and your brake warning light, so you really should consider that only as a 'limp home' capability. You don't really want to keep driving the car like that. If you *must*, then you might try removing the voltage limiter - it just plugs into the back of the instrument panel printed wiring board - which should disable just the two gauges. This would be difficult to do on the road, however, as the voltage limiter is all but impossible to reach from under the dash; and to remove the instrument panel, you must remove the a/c duct (if so equipped) and drop the steering wheel for clearance; not terribly difficult, but still not something I'd want to be doing on the shoulder of a freeway in a bad part of town without my set of deep-well sockets! Hope this helps other Dart/Valiant owners out there. Keep on driving them!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
wow, the voltage regulator went out on my nissan pathfinder and they want $135 to replace it. Im not sure if this is the problem with my car, they temp guage works fine, I dont know if this is a degenarate thing where certain parts go out before other ones. Do you know of how to check for this, or is it something that just happens?

I would really hate that this would be the problem becuase this car has been garage kept since 1985 and I purchased it from the original owner and have only put maybe 100 miles on it. I cant remember if it has 18k miles or 80k but those are the original miliage.

thanks for all the help guys, this has given me something to start with.

thanks,
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
ok good, I am almost sure my temp guage works, so this wouldnt be my problem then right?
 

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I had a similar issue. I found that I had a micro sized hole in my fuel sending unit so it wouldn't float. I cleaned thethe float with #600 sand paper and carefully soldered over the hole with a a soldering iron. Make sure the gas is all out, fumes are also dangerous. Measure the resistance from the sending unit it should range from about 15 to 80 ohms as us move the float up and down.
I also found that the instrument voltage regulator wasn't working right. I found a Mopar web site that showed how to use a 5 volt regulator chip to replace the regulator. Their solution showed 3/8 of a tank when the tank was bone dry!
My solution was to build a pulse width regulator that functions like the original Mopar unit but, with one improvement, mine has a screw to adjust the output so you can adjust the system to be totally accurate.
After I have tested this regulator for a while I plan to sell them on my web site.

www.moparmuscleonline.com

Good luck,
Bruce
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
well, it was nice enough to test a few things, My temp guage works so I dont think it is a voltage regulator. Also, I looked at all the lights and found that one of the marker light bulbs was busted. Would this cuase the grounding issue and cuase the blinker to come on with the headlights.

I havnt got under the car yet to check the sending unit, but I want to remember the float pouring out a lot of fuel. I thought maybe it filled up and floated that way, So I will pull it out and check.

thanks a lot for the help guys,
Mike
 

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My Dart's Fuel Gauge is intermittent. One day I turn the key, and the gauge needle goes up to its correct mark. Next day, the needle stays put, dead, on its full left rest position..
 

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GuzziMike,

If the gauge works intermittently, it sounds like a wiring issue. When the gauge stays on the empty peg, the circuit is open. Probably due to a crappy connection. Pull the connector off the sending unit then push it back on. Make sure the connector fits snuggly also, some cars have a ground wire. If your Dart has a ground wire make sure it is connected tightly on both ends. If that doesn't fix it pull the kick panel off on the driver side, look for two connectors plugged together. One of these wires (the blue one on my Demon) is the wire from the gas tank sending unit. Pull them apart then plug them back together. Reseating the connectors usually fixes the problem. I hope the wiring is the same with reference to the kick panel deal.

Good Luck,
Bruce
 

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Thanx, Bruce...Yeah, I pulled the connector at the tank, and re-seated it. No Joy.

This weekend I will do the kick panel connection, see if that's it. BTW, I did not see any ground wire at the tank sending unit, only the blue wire.

Thanx again..

Mike
 

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Just had a problem with my fuel gauge and temp gauge. I tought it was the voltage limiter, but the problem was on the printed circuit, the voltage limiter input (12V) had burn right off the printed circuit. I soldered a wire from the pin to the input of the regulator. Now my gauges work but the fuel gauge goes way past full. My tank is full right now. What could cause that? Full on the gauge is the highest or lowest Ohm reading?
 
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