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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am looking for some input from you folks out there that have installed the Alterkation system in a Dart with either a 440 or 383 using either indy or eddy heads.  I am looking very closely at purchashing one of these setups for my daughters 74 Dart drag car and am wonding what headers will work with the above engines.  If I install the Alterkation suspension I will remove the inner fenders and the stock shock towers since they are no longer needed, I was thinking with those mods plus not having to worry about the torsion bars or the steering box that it opens it up to a larger number of header types.  Also how do you search on this forum I've been looking around and can't figure out how to do it.

Thanks!
 
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Just to tag along, I'm also wondering the same thing. I have an RB (493 cid, with Eddy's) block with an altertation, I'm using schumaker headers and it runs out of steam at around 4500 rpm, I'm thinking it's the small headers and 750 carb. I'm waiting to find out what headers work in the 2" + sizes and don't extend below the bodyline. Also, will this change kill my bottom end. So apparently the TTI's work but how low do they drop down?
 

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I have TTI 2" headers in my dart with a 496 based 440 with eddy heads. I will try to post a pic if it don,t work go to the gallery check the pics off my car ( caper). driver side has tons off room with the steering shaft out. Pass side a little hard getting in , you have to lift the motor on the pass side a bit. one off the pipes are very close to the inner fenderwell , not touching but close. I dented that pipe a small bit for more clearence , you can,t see the dent. Pass side collector is a little high back at the trans crossmember , you will have to bend the exhaust pipe a small bit to get by the crossmember , no big deal.
 

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If someone knows how to post pics from the gallery ( caper ), it will give them an idea how low the headers sit.
 

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I run an alterkation and a 440. I mocked up a 440 block with stage 6 heads in the car and my 2"tti's fitted but only cleared the pass side shock tower by thou's. What I forgot to check and I suspect will be a problem is starter clearance. Any head with raised exhaust ports is liable to have issues with the starter hitting the headers. I'm pretty sure that any header that will physically fit the engine would fit the chassis if you had an alterkation, the only other problem might be the steering column but that's relatively easy to sort.
 
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It looks like from pictures that the TTI's tuck up to the body pretty well, is this true? I don't want to see the exhaust from the side if at all possible.

I have the eddy heads and the exhaust ports are not raised so the starter shouldn't be an issue.
 

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I would say the tti's sit higher than most but if you mount a 3" system to them you will still see it from the side, you'd have to run 2.5" tube and tuck it up real close to the floor to hide it behind your frame connectors I would think.
 
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I have a 3" system now with schumachers, my flowmasters are tucked up into the 4 link cage and the tailpipes stay above the rear valence and turn down at the end...the system can't be seen without laying on the ground... :)
 

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Mike, just a thought. My Hedman B-bodies sit tighter to the floor than any header I ever had on a small block. Do they make a larger diameter header that is similar in shape?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks guys for the information I looked through the gallery at some of the cars with the Alterkation I'm going to measure my son's Challenger to see how much diffrence there is in the frame spacing.  Like I said the inner fenders and as much of the shock towers as possible will be removed so I should have a lot of room there.  The only thing is how much less spacing there is between the frames might cause some grief fitting 2"+ headers expecally with a 440.  If I use the 440 it has the Indy SR heads so I suspect the raised exhaust port may have an effect on the header I use.  If I build stroked 383 then it will probably have Eddy heads and I'm sure it would be an over all better fit so I'm giving that a lot of consideration also.  Since this is going to be a dedicated race car I'm going to look at some ways to modify the tunnel to get better access to the drive train.  I have a friend who would like the factory disc brake setup off this car to put on a 68 Barracuda will this swap work?  I'm going to call RMS today and get more information from them on this conversion before I decide how I want to go.  Thanks again for the help I'm sure I'll have other questions as this project begins to move along. 
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well it sounds like the Alterkation system should be here in a couple of weeks so I've got to make a header choice pretty soon now.  The 383 I was going to use is already .060 over and my engine builder sonic tested it and said it to thin for the power we'd probably put out and could end up with a split clyinder.  Well that kind of threw a wrench in the works so I've got 2 choices either find a 383/400 block or go to plan B and put my 650HP 440 with SR heads in.  I didn't see anything that TTI made in 2" that would work with the RB/SR setup, I'm a little leary to just order a set and hope the fit after I remove the interfenders and shock towers.  The other choice is to go with the Hooker fenderwell style and live with the tire clearance issue, with this engine I'm going to really need to go with 2" headers to get the HP out of it I know the Hookers would give me easy access to the starter also but I may have to redo the front roll cage support bars to clear them.  From a money stand point it would be cheaper to use the engine I have since it will need a WP, Carb and Headers just like the 383 would have.  I'll post some pictures as this project moves along it should be fun!
 

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I have the 2 1/8 TTI step header on my B motor with Indy heads and a Powerglide trans and an AlterK.  I also have an Indy Maxx block which is more than an inch wider at the pan rail, this required me to move the bottom of these headers outward.  I did this by sandwiching a set of header flanges between the headers and the heads that were angle milled 3.5 degrees to move the bottom of the headers out away from the side of the block.  Its kind of a tight fit still but this is the first set of off the shelf headers that I've used that required absolutely no fitment dings or clearance bends or modifications.   



 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
540dust said:
I have the 2 1/8 TTI step header on my B motor with Indy heads and a Powerglide trans and an AlterK.  I also have an Indy Maxx block which is more than an inch wider at the pan rail, this required me to move the bottom of these headers outward.  I did this by sandwiching a set of header flanges between the headers and the heads that were angle milled 3.5 degrees to move the bottom of the headers out away from the side of the block.  Its kind of a tight fit still but this is the first set of off the shelf headers that I've used that required absolutely no fitment dings or clearance bends or modifications.   



Both you and Caper have sweet rides, yours looks like it will be similar to what my daughters car will be like.  Can you get to the starter or it a major pain?  When I do hers I'm going to remove the shock towers my roll bar extention tubes have other bracing.   Did you replace your trans tunnel or is it still stock?  I was planning on replacing ours with a larger aftermarket style just to get some room in there to work.  If that Max block will fit then I shouldn't have much of an issue with the 440 and SR's going in.  Thanks guys for the information its been helpful!
 

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Thanks. The driver side header will have to come off to get the starter out. Yes if these headers fit the maxx block you shouldnt have a problem with the stock block although, with my headers installed with the bottom moved out I have more clearance between the collectors and the trans pan and I am running a powerglide. I believe with a 727 and the headers bolted right up to the head (not tipped out) the clearance between the collectors and the trans pan may be tight. I like leaving the shock towers in so that the upper control arm mounts are braced to the front cage support, but if you removed the tower and replaced it with a fabricated brace to the front cage support you could gain quite a bit more room beside the block.
 
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