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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am using a 10 pt kit from S+W. Their kit has the separate halo, and then the individual front down bars. I am wanting to run them behind/through the dash. I don't think this was intended to work with this kit "out of the box". I can make it work, if.... it is allowable to weld a little piece from the top of the down bar to the halo. This will allow me to keep them tight to the pillars, and then connect to the halo with an angle cut and small connection piece.

Are there any weird restrictions that would limit me here?

Thanks all.
 

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Crazy68Dart said:
I am using a 10 pt kit from S+W. Their kit has the separate halo, and then the individual front down bars. I am wanting to run them behind/through the dash. I don't think this was intended to work with this kit "out of the box". I can make it work, if.... it is allowable to weld a little piece from the top of the down bar to the halo. This will allow me to keep them tight to the pillars, and then connect to the halo with an angle cut and small connection piece.

Are there any weird restrictions that would limit me here?

Thanks all.
ANDY--

Describe what is going thru the dash...
If I'm understanding your question, you;ll have to either cut the corners of the upper dash to accomdiate the circular bar from the roof to the floorpan. It will also possibly interfeer with the door handle and winndow roller(the crank used to roll it down)[at least it does in mine]. Anyhow, I can try and take photos of mine and send them to ya BUT I also might not be understanding the queston correctly. JUST REMEMBER, the downward bar of the head hoop has to be within certain distance of the driver in the sitting position...many times during tech insp we find with the driver in place, the bar is too low.

Dave
 

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i think he wants to add some tube to the end of a bar so it will extend behind the dash instead of in front of it.

i read that butt welded joints are ok if there is a sleeve/insert of a certain length? and this insert is plug welded using "rossette/plug" welds.

i see it here in section 4:4 Frames
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I should take some pics...

I want to run the front pillar bars through the dash, rather than in front. Dave, yes, I will have to notch the dash, which is fine, but that is not my exact question. As the front pillar/down bars (is there a correct name here?) came in the kit, I don't think they were meant to go through the dash, rather in front of it. So the bends and length are not exact for what I am trying to do.

I can make them work, if, it is allowable for me to weld and extension piece to the top of them to connect to the halo. Know what I mean? This will allow me to then keep them tight to the pillars and out of the way.

Dave, if I understand the rules, the door bar needs to lay somewhere between the shoulder and elbow while in the sitting position. The main hoop needs to be withing 5" horizontally of the drivers head/helmet. Correct?
 

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Shoot, if you weld them solid and grind them smooth, then paint it, how would anyone know you grafted in an extension peice? You're not "supossed" to grind weld on a roll cage, but in that case, how would they know?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
mopowers said:
Shoot, if you weld them solid and grind them smooth, then paint it, how would anyone know you grafted in an extension peice?  You're not "supossed" to grind weld on a roll cage, but in that case, how would they know?
Well that fact that it would not be a nice smooth bend would probably be a dead give away...

I am not trying to hide it, I just want to make sure it is legal.
 

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   What kind of piece would you need ?  If you would need some odd ball angle added ? I have a S/W 10pt I didn't install yet, maybe my tubes are for behind the dash.... any pictures or measurements of what you need to do ?

                                                                                         SIKPUP ;D
 

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I have the S&W 14pt kit installed and the front A piller bars at the dash don't hung in close for shit. Not a very clean look. My dash was removed so I don't no how close it would have been, but it would have been nice if the bars had been bent in closer. Look at your diagonal bar, I don't think it will clear an armrest.
 

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i think i would feel safer just getting a couple new tubes and having a local shop bend them with the correct lengths to do what you want
but if you do ad a piece i would defenetly sleeve it yes the side bars should be between the shoulder and the elbow my cross bar is at shoulder hight for belt attachment i beleive it has to be shoulder hight or no more than 3 or 4 inch below
 

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New bars would be best, maybe you could cut to fit the old ones through the fire wall for front bars or bent side bars ? It's the same 1 5/8 size.

SIKPUP ;D
 
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Hey Andy - you've got the regular bars. They (S&W) can make you the bars you need so you don't have to mess with this. Have you called them?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ciscodog said:
Hey Andy - you've got the regular bars.  They (S&W) can make you the bars you need so you don't have to mess with this.  Have you called them?
Actually no... I should, I was thinking about ordering the swing out kit anyway...

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
They cannot make them, what I mean is they do not have the plans for them. They told me I could fax them measurments and angles to make the bars, but if I go to that length, I will bend them locally.
 
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Okay, get them from another company. That's crazy that they don't have that.

Go with Chassis Engineering Tech. phone: 561-863-2188. They should be able to hook you up with the same bars. It will work ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ciscodog said:
Okay, get them from another company.  That's crazy that they don't have that.

Go with Chassis Engineering Tech. phone:  561-863-2188.  They should be able to hook you up with the same bars.  It will work ;)
Well they had them. It was not the most confident customer service I have had, so hopefully I get the right bars... we'll see I guess. Thanks! ;D
 
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