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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wel after much consideration, I've decided that instead of boxing my frame where the bends are (frame was bent in accident), and since i have a 6"x2" hole in the front part of my rear sub frame, I'm thinking that back-halfing my be the way to go. I've done a good amount of suspension work, so I'm not really too afraid to do make the plunge. what are some reccomendations form ya'll? box steel frame connecotrs, ful cage and a comp. eng. kit? or would i be better off sending it oof to be built?. I'm pretty content on doing a 4-link w/coilovers, but if someone has an opinion on a better way to do this, nows the time before i start ordering parts. ths car will be my fair weather driver, hitting the strip when i can, so i plan on seeing 99% of the miles being on the street. Car will be lightend as much as possible, i.e. fiberglass fenders, hood and trunk lid. Opinions?
 
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I see alot of projects not get finished because it gets way over their head. If you've never done one before, you might think about letting someone else do it that does this for a living. It's going to cost alot of money, time. Do you have all the neccessary equipment to do this? Hidden cost like rollcage, subframe connectors, fuel cell and plumbing, you are going to have fat tires on it right? Shortening a rearhousing, axles, ect, 4-link or ladder bar plus coilovers, sheetmetal..Are you going to make your own tubs? There is all kinds of tools needed, but if you own them all....you could probably get that rearend in there straight where it drives straight. Are you a good welder? It is not easy if you've never done a setup before and all of them require some specialized skill. I got 295R 15's under my 71 and it is mini-tubbed with Chassis Engineering Ladder bars, Chassis Engineering 12 point roll cage, which I made into a 14 point cage, coil overs, 2X3 subframe connectors which slip into the front stub 6" and also slips into the rear stub 6" welded to the floor I slip between the front and rear stub on each side. Man that tightened it up! The hard thing to do was slip my dash in half, notch it for the front door bars. And in doing so I flipped the nutplates over on the front dash rail so I could take the dash out of the car without removing the windsheild. I hate welding upside down and over my head, you will too! Have fun
 

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Sure, have 10g's in the bank, and so long as you have all the necessary tools, go for it. Back halfed and caged a buddies 83 Stang for under 5g's. Of course we had 4 guys work on it for 2 months in the evenings and weekends for free (whole lot drinking during the process). The extra 5 g's just gives you fudge room. Or you could bring it to me and we could do the same for you for a meger 5g's over materials cost. My buds chasis was certified by the local NHRA division tech and is good to 8's in the 1/4. Here is a link to some of the pics I posted on a different web site Back halfed stang
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
looks like a prety good ladderbar set up to me. Shipping the car at this point is not really a possibility, since i'm allready 1/2 way through the rebuild in my shop. SO this is all the non-stock/mild upgrade tech help we have to offer.......guess I'll figure it out on my own.
 

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It is not ladder barred, it was a four link set up. As to offering any advive, it is a BIG undertaking to hack out the rear half of the car. This is not your mild upgrade/mod. Sorry, but if you have to ask, you probably shouldn't be tackling a project such as this. There are no short cuts or secrets that are being denied. It's just something you need to have someone who has done it before with you to avoid headache and pitfalls. I have built all sorts of different race cars as a living and with my friend, since I was a teen. We have learned alot thru the years, and I would gladly sit down with him and write a book on the subject if you care to pay me to publish it. Otherwise, as I said $$$ and lots of it, so that when you run into trouble you can throw $$$ at it to save yourself. Otherwise, I am sure their will be someone who will offer you pennies on the dollar if you fail to complete the project because you find your in to deep. Peace and good luck on your learning project.
 

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If your not completely set on backhalfing with 4 link, you can buy 2x3 square tubing replacement frame rails for a-bodys for $215 a pair from auto weld, and put in a crossmember if its bad, I put them in my duster, I can send you pics if you want. check them out at web.inetba.com/autoweld/spec.ivnu
 

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I'm backhalfing my duster, I have the rear clip installed. I bought it from Art Morrisson with the rear clip welded together for me it was easy to install just took some time if you can weld and measure you can do it. I bought the whole rear assy, rear clip,axle,disc brakes gears etc. everything fits together real nice that way. I in stalled a cage but have removed it, I was not happy with the way I fit together. I will be installing a new cage, a better one that has the dash bar behind the dash and the front down tubes will set more forward making it a little easier for me to get in and out,notice I did say a little bit easier not a huge difference, but since i was redoing it might as well go for it all.
So if you can measure, remeasure, weld, and be paitent not rush to get it done you should be just fine. I would suggest tyo order the video from Art Morrsion on installing a backhalf in a car pretty much shows all the steps needed and makes it simple to understand the process.
I say go for it it aint cheap but if thats what you want do it to it. I'm glad I did it is what i always wanted to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Daniel said:
I'm backhalfing my duster, I have the rear clip installed. I bought it from Art Morrisson with the rear clip welded together for me it was easy to install just took some time if you can weld and measure you can do it. I bought the whole rear assy, rear clip,axle,disc brakes gears etc. everything fits together real nice that way. I in stalled a cage but have removed it, I was not happy with the way I fit together. I will be installing a new cage, a better one that has the dash bar behind the dash and the front down tubes will set more forward making it a little easier for me to get in and out,notice I did say a little bit easier not a huge difference, but since i was redoing it might as well go for it all.
So if you can measure, remeasure, weld, and be paitent not rush to get it done you should be just fine. I would suggest tyo order the video from Art Morrsion on installing a backhalf  in a car pretty much shows all the steps needed and makes it simple to understand the process.
  I say go for it it aint cheap but if thats what you want do it to it. I'm glad I did it is what i always wanted to do.
Awesome...thats the kind of help I'm talking about.
 

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Actually Dano, I didn't look at the link until after the fact, that was a ladder barred car, my bad. I was thinking of a different car I had done that was ladder barred. If you are already half way into it I don't think your a noob to fabbing so, as I said, rockon. It's just expensive (a relative term I guess) to do them is all I was getting at. The stang was actually two rear kits mixed and matched to suit our purposes. Runs 10.5's or faster all day long straight as a laser beam. As others have said. measure 10 times, cut 1 time. Also it is best to make sure that where you cut the car apart is where the car can sit till everything is welded back together so that nothing changes that could throw off any measurements. Moving them when they are butchered apart is not a good plan.
 
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I made stands high enough so I could get underneath of it on a creaper, leveled it side to side, front to back, used alot of shims and hilted' the stands to the concrete, tack welded the stands to the bottom of the rockers. Found the center of the car and popped a chalk line, spayed clear on it, found the rear axle center line, popped a chalk line and sprayed clear on it also. Since I was moving my Dana 60 forward 6", I needed that also as a reference line. From that line and a plumb bob, I was able to mark each rear quarter where the exact center was, as a reference point so I could widen and extend my rear wheelwells. If you are altering a wheel base, you will need this point. Since I extended my front axle centerline 13", I found the front stock axle center line, popped a chalk line and sprayed clear on it also to use as a reference.

In your case you will need to position the car where it will not be moved till completed. You will need to do the same leveling, finding the same centerlines of the car, the axles. Who's ever kit you buy, their will be some detailed instructions you must follow carefully. It will take some time and money and a whole lot of patience.
 

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If you decide to go this route, give Art Morroson a call 1-800-929-7188. They have a nice catalog. They're about 4 miles frommy house. I've only done this once. I put their pro street 2" x 4" rear clip 4 link coil over with Ford 9" in a buddies Chevy Luv. The alignment shop said there was no way that this was done in my little garage. Therefore as stated prior, you must have tools, patience, welding skill and mechanical ability. Just take your time and measure 10 times. The clip was about #3200 complete with axles and disk brakes; about 4 years ago.

Tom
 
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