Brake bleed question special tool to make!

wedgie said:

I took an extra master cylinder cap, drilled and tapped it for 1/8" NPT, screwed in an air fitting, and applied 5# of air from my compressor. Just go around and open the bleeders one at a time, until you have good flow, and you are all set. Just make sure that you keep the air pressure low, and keep the master cylinder full.

Click to expand...

this way works excelent. i took a 1/2" piece of plate and welded an air fitting into it. i use a quick grip clamp to hold it on the resevior. i have done 3 or 4 cars since i made that thing and it works great. top off the fluid after you do the rear axle, then again after you do the front wheels. or you can top it off after each wheel.

Park a running car next to the project (if the project car isn't a runner), get 15' of clear hose and hook it up to a vacuum source on the running car. Attach the hose to the bleeder and fire up the runner, open the bleeder and let the engine suck out the bad stuff. You can make up a vacuum catch can/jar (like the little can on the mityvac), have a dump hose at the bottom and a vacuum hose near the top. Hard part is attaching fittings to the lid. Works good at getting water out of a valley pan or the top of an intake after washing the motor. Or you can kill the runner before the fluid makes it's way to the motor (clear hose). Trying to remember what happens if the runner sucks up all the fluid and burns it, I don't think it smokes to bad...

I gravity bled mine. Opened all the bleeders ,attached some hose to from bleeders down to jars and keep the master cylinder full for a few minutes,then closed them and pedel bled from furthest back to closest. Pedal feels great. I used DOT 5 silocone fluid. Highest boiling point, no pedal fade when its hot and won't effect paint if it gets on it. But it is a little costly. cost about 18.00 for 24oz to do my entire system on my 69 Cuda with front disc and all new parts including lines,calipers,wheel cylinders,hoses, master cylinder. ;D ;D ;D ;D

homemade bleeder #1

homemade bleeder #2

I made one last fall but haven't had the chance to use it yet.

these home made bleeders look crude but are the correct principal....NEVER induce pressureized shop air into the brake system..this air is full of moisture and as i am sure everyone is well aware, brake fluid is very Hygroscopic. The last thing you want is H2O in your fresh clean brake fluid.

I think there's got to be a problem if your having trouble pedal bleeding your car. It's the cheapest time tested method still used today. No special tools needed - just a one legged friend to pump the pedal for you while you crack open the bleeders. If you're suffering from a low pedal you could try to isolate the brake system to identify where the problem lies. If you have all the rubber lines pinched off and your pedal still drops then you know that your problem is at the master. If your pedal is now rock hard then you keep looking elsewhere. I hope this helps. I'm a tool addict but I haven't found another way to bleed brakes that takes less time and is also a good excuse to drink beer with a friend.

I had that happen to me when I had my rear shoes out of adjustment. Once I put a few clicks on the adjusters to obtain a slight drag everything was okay.

I use a mityvac and works excellent. The trick is to first wrap all the bleeder screws with teflon tape. Otherwise air gets by the threads and introduced back into the system. Work carefully so the bleed hole doesn't get covered.

bbscamp said:

I isolated all the hoses with vice grips and the pedal is rock hard.  When I remove the front grips...it has a very good pedal.  when I pull off the rear hose vicegrip...the pedal is a little spongy for my likeing.  I vacuum bled it....no improvement.  I guess I have another go at it.

Click to expand...

Line might be swelling a little bit too. I wonder if someone makes a braided steel line for the rear?