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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I Have a small problem, I recently installed my line-loc and so I then proceded to bleed the brakes, I figured I'd start with the right, and so I bled it with one of those vacum pumps(so i could do it by myslef) and no matter how long i pumed on that bleeder i still got a ton of air comming out, so i decided to go and do the drives side and wihtin a few pumps i had clear bubbleless fluid comming out so that one bled fine, I tried the other one again and still had air.  The pedal itself feels firm and solid and it's manual brakes if it helps, after all the problems I took it out for a spin and it still stops proplerly but he line-loc will only work on one wheel so it'll really only do donuts, not burnouts  :'( please help.
 

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sounds like you tied it into th wrong line [ie left or right front] instead of the line that handles fluid to both sides Z
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I put the line-loc in on the front brake line as it comes out of the master cylinder, it goes Master cylinder-line-Solenoid-line-proportiong valve/splitter (whatever you call it) then to the individual wheel cylinders. Could it be that I have a bad wheel cylinder on that side? If it helps they are disk brakes. (stock for the car) Thanks for the help.
 

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so you have disc / drum brakes and have the line lock to activate the front discs, is that correct??
 

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Did it ever pull one way or the other when you installed the brakes before you installed the line-loc? Even a little?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
not from what i could tell, i know it sounds stupid but how would i bleed the whole front system? ANd what would i look for to find out if i have a bad wheel cylinder? The rotor on the right side shows wear equal to the left side so it looks like some thing is working on the right side.
 

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Double check for leaks. Sounds like air as found its way into one side, possibly from a leaking fitting. I had a similar problem when I did mine. After I got the system all plumbed and bled the front brakes quit working. Turns out the fittings were leaking ever so slightly and must have taken in air. Still haven't bled them, though. ::)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Is there any way to check if a wheel cyclinder has gone bad with out taking it out? Because thats what my dad thinks is the problem so I'd like to have a definat awnser before i pull that side apart. Thanks.
 

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truth be told and from my experience, if you 'suspect' a wheel cylinder might be bad, change it out anyway as chances are it is...I'd also recommend doing both if youre going to do either one at all.

mi dos centavos
 

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74DDS said:
Is there any way to check if a wheel cyclinder has gone bad with out taking it out? Because thats what my dad thinks is the problem so I'd like to have a definat awnser before i pull that side apart. Thanks.
Take the caliper off. Have the Misses pump the pedal slowly and watch the caliper piston. If it moves, its fine. Use a C-clamp to push the caliper back - otherwise it won't go over the rotor.
 

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74swinger said:
74DDS said:
Is there any way to check if a wheel cyclinder has gone bad with out taking it out? Because thats what my dad thinks is the problem so I'd like to have a definat awnser before i pull that side apart. Thanks.
Take the caliper off. Have the Misses pump the pedal slowly and watch the caliper piston. If it moves, its fine. Use a C-clamp to push the caliper back - otherwise it won't go over the rotor.
NO NO **(*)Do not. even a slow push will blow the piston out of the caliper. God help you if your fingers are in it.

If you are going to try something like this at least put a block of wood or something in it.
 
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