[74DDS]

So after much crawiling around and in my dart I have found 1 problem so far. There is some kind of voltage drop in between my alternator and battery, it goes from some where aroud 14 at the alternator to like 12.5 at the battery. The battery is mounted in the trunk with a master kill switch, but that wouldn't drop the voltage that much now would it? Now would that drop in voltage cause over time my battery to die? Cuz at the moment the car will run, just barely, most times I have to use the charger to get it running, but it will run and idle but my turn signals won't blink and the last time I drove it my radio would shut off every time I hit the brakes. So could that drop of voltage be my problem, or could it still be a short?

 

[71 demon child]

Check all your grounds really good.Some times I'll even fab a new ground and use it as "tester"ground.Obviously you aren't getting a good charge seeing how you have to jump it to get it going.With all the other wacky stuff going on i would start with the grounds.Even if you think your grounds are good give them a cleaning and make sure what ever your grounding it to has a solid ground itself.I've had some cars go wacky from lack of ground from block to body (although it was more computer oriented).Give it a try,start with the simple stuff.Good luck,
carl

 

[Guest]

Chrysler charging systems suck - they need like 3k rpm to actually charge. Put a GM 1-wire on it and be done with it.

 

[1DART440]

I am running a GM unit mounted low, can't complain 14 volts all the time.

 

[74DDS]

well I'm getting 14 volts at the alernator, I'm just not getting that much at the batery. Could my kill switch be lowering the volts? The way I have it wired the cable comming from the battery in the trunk meets up with the charging wire at the starter. Also the kill switch is the 4 post variety so I ran the field wires to it to kill the car, i cut and spliced the wire after the alternator, but before the voltage regulator.

 

[1DART440]

I am running a trunk mounted battery with 2 AWG and a master solenoid to disconnect the battery. The battery wire runs to a bulkhead connector, see below. On the engine side, a 6 AWG goes to the alternator and another 2AWG goes to the starter. This bulkhead is the common point for all the BAT electrical connection.
The kill switch shouldn't be dropping any voltage, all the current must pass through the switch to start the car. I'm sure it is making a good connection.

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[74DDS]

Wel I have good news i fixed the charging system after all my many weekend of crawling around my car the problem turned out to be my voltage regualtor, i found this out by putting my dads c-body regulator in my car, and low and behold the meter read 14 volts, so I got a new one for my self and that was it, a simple part. Well thanks for all your help, I am very sure I will be needing it again soon.