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Had these built by a guy who works independently , going to shops and fabbing hard to fit cars. My car is a small block Dart and I didnt want fenderwells, so he made them go under the car. Cost was $1400, and that was 7 yrs ago, along with jet hot at $350. heres the pic
 

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Sure glad you`re changing the plugs on that thing !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Of course they would be easier if they were in the middle of the valve cover  ;D
They are actually easy from underneath , tubes go straight out and up
 

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We started the fab work on Rickey's header the past weekend. Full 2" primaries and ending with a 3.5" collectors. Work on it for a few hours saturday and got the middle 2 passenger tubes routed under the car. Started on cylinder#8 last night trying to get as close to the same length as I can...but like all of us know that run BB in these A bodies...not much room. Its going to take a while but it will be worth it. The price quoted is not that bad when you consider the amount of work that it takes to do the job.

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
rharveysr said:
We started the fab work on Rickey's header the past weekend. Full 2" primaries and ending with a 3.5" collectors. Work on it for a few hours saturday and got the middle 2 passenger tubes routed under the car. Started on cylinder#8 last night trying to get as close to the same length as I can...but like all of us know that run BB in these A bodies...not much room. Its going to take a while but it will be worth it. The price quoted is not that bad when you consider the amount of work that it takes to do the job.

Rick
you got any pictures of your work.
 

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As if right now we work out of our garage...but we have equiped it like a shop so we can do cages,headers..etc. With the way the economy is...I am glad my son and I dont own a shop and try to make money..The only thing we have to worry about is one of the neighbors. He dont like it that we have young folks hanging around and learning.

Rick
 

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Ok when I'm wrong I'm really wrong.$800 won't touch a set of stainless headers from my chassis guy.I was just over there dropping my car off and talked to him about a current price,he said there would be $1100 in just material and the price would go up from there depending on what car and engine combo.I'm glad I got mine done when I did.marv
 

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If those prices sound expensive, there is always a possibility of doing them yourself. I have built maybe ten sets, it's no rocket science, just plain work. I have usually started with a header kit, they are about 200$ mild steel, Hooker & Hedman. First job is to determine hte length and diameter you want to choose the correct kit. Usually you need extra turns for the job, I usually take four extra J's to begin with. Next step for me is to make a "gasket" out of sheetmetal, with non holes except for the bolts. Then I tack weld about 1" tubs to the flanges and install them. Next I cut desired length pieces from proper size flexible paper hose, like used in many production cars air filter preheating system, adn attach tehm to teh stubs in teh flanges with hose clamps. Next, I find a location for the collector, and attach it there, tack welding it to its correct location. Then I start figuring out the proper routes to teh collector with those four flexible paper hoses. Once I get the best routing and roder figured out, it's time to start duplicating it with the steel pipes. Starting with the one that looks "hardest", from the flange tackwelding enough pieces to reach the collector + some extra removing the collector at this point. Then the next hardest pipe etc until all four are each tackwelded together. Usually takes 2-3 pieces per primary, I cut them with a regular hack saw. Then I remove them from the flange, and weld the joints completely, then tackweld again to the flanges and cut the collector end to the proper length. Next, I remove the assy, form the flange side pipes to the port shape, and fully weld them in a "jig", just a U- profile with bolt holes for the flange. Then I weld the primaries together in the collector end and fill the gap in the center. Next it goes back to the car again, and I slip the collector on and tack weld it. Out the assembly comes again, and I fully weld the collector; voila, a ready header! And the other side next. You have to keep in mind all the time, that you must be able to remove and install the header, the less room, the more difficult it is, and if you must make it disassembly able, it's even more work. But all it requires is some very basic metal skills, time and nerves. Fenderwells usually take one long day to build. There is some pics of my "one day headers" in the gallery; room to spare, no ground or wheel clearance problems.
http://www.bigblockdart.com/photopost/data/500/hiideri5.jpg
http://www.bigblockdart.com/photopost/data/500/hiideri4.jpg
http://www.bigblockdart.com/photopost/data/500/hiideri1.jpg
http://www.bigblockdart.com/photopost/data/500/hiideri3.jpg
 

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The headers that we are building....will be able to be installed and removed with taking anything loose. Granted we will removed the wires and plugs but that is it. There will be a 3 piece design. Center tubes and then one tube for the out side ports. We are using 3/8" flange material so they will stay in place. Also the collector will have the ball and socket type like the Hedman headers. You can get the ends from Summit..

Rick and Rickey Jr.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
bOb shingler said:
;D  these are the under the chassis one's a built for my supercharged demon. 2 3/8", 2 1/2", 2 5/8" into a 5" collector.
THAT'S a great idea. It all bolts together right? No flange. Pretty sharp. Got any pics of it on the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Why have it all seperated like that. Why not just weld it all together.

Is is for quick disconnect or something. I do like the idea though.

I'd fear leakage in those mid pipes that lead to the collector.
 

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JOEYMAN said:
Why have it all seperated like that. Why not just weld it all together.

Is is for quick disconnect or something. I do like the idea though.

I'd fear leakage in those mid pipes that lead to the collector.
i couldn't weld it all together because they wouldn't come out and i when i have to pull the top of the motor off or the whole motor out i just have to remove the tops of the pipes and leave the bottom and exhaust system in the hotrod.



 
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