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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been doing a lot of research lately on front disc brake conversions. I kind of like their A body 10 inch drum conversion package. I know I can try and find junkyard Chrysler parts to convert to late model discs, but here are the advantages I see: Cost is only $575.00 with all new components. I don't have to change upper control arms, spindles, or my sway bar. They use Camaro rotors and calipers (insert snide remarks here) which should be available indefinitely. They use a billet aluminum hub which takes the same bearings as the stock drums (no bearing spacers). They say you get better braking with less pedal effort, due to a larger piston caliper, and I will be using manual brakes. I called them and the guy was very friendly and answered all of my questions, even as to what components are in the kit. Has anybody used their kit? Any good or bad comments?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
At least I'll be running stock steel wheels, so nobody will be able to see them :-[
 

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i could care less about mixing and jumbling parts from all different brands. i think its cool. its hot rodding isnt it? so many mopar guys want thier cars to be 100% all mopar. lets face it mopars are great, but there are some better parts out there from other brands. its all good if it works. i think i saw that kit, looked interesting. for a disk brake swap i like the idea of running the tube upper a arms and f,m,j body spindles and brakes though. there easy to find, cheap to buy, new parts are cheap and you have some nice trick adjustable a arms to help get your alignment dead on. oh yeah, if you want to see a cool rear disk setup check out dr. diffs kit. uses a toyota rotor and a mustang caliper. or something like that. billet bracketry. he says its really light, its a bolt on deal and the caliper has a built in parking brake so you dont have the extra drum assembly. comes in 2 sizes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
James, I looked at exactly what you were suggesting with Bill's upper control arms, but at $300.00 for just the arms, and by the time you hit the junkyard and replace some parts, it will certainly end up costing more than this kit. By the way, they also have a rear disc kit which uses Cadillac calipers and I think the same rotors for $525.00.
Has anyone actually tried either of these kits?
 

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jamesdart said:
i could care less about mixing and jumbling parts from all different brands. i think its cool. its hot rodding isnt it? so many mopar guys want thier cars to be 100% all mopar. lets face it mopars are great, but there are some better parts out there from other brands. its all good if it works. i think i saw that kit, looked interesting. for a disk brake swap i like the idea of running the tube upper a arms and f,m,j body spindles and brakes though. there easy to find, cheap to buy, new parts are cheap and you have some nice trick adjustable a arms to help get your alignment dead on. oh yeah, if you want to see a cool rear disk setup check out dr. diffs kit. uses a toyota rotor and a mustang caliper. or something like that. billet bracketry. he says its really light, its a bolt on deal and the caliper has a built in parking brake so you dont have the extra drum assembly. comes in 2 sizes.
ya it dosen't really bother me either.... ;)
 

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qkcuda said:
James, I looked at exactly what you were suggesting with Bill's upper control arms, but at $300.00 for just the arms, and by the time you hit the junkyard and replace some parts, it will certainly end up costing more than this kit.  By the way, they also have a rear disc kit which uses Cadillac calipers and I think the same rotors for $525.00.
Has anyone actually tried either of these kits?
this is true, but you would also have new big upper ball joints and control arm bushings.
 

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I bought ECI's rear conversion kit but don't have it on the car yet. It looks good sitting in the box so far. LOL LOL LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
James, You're right, I have not replaced the bushings or ball joints yet, and that would be a bit of a cost savings. At this point I wouldn't even consider used upper control arms, given the price they are selling for, and you still have to replace this stuff. Do you think I would see any advantage with Bill's uppers as far as reduced friction or better weight transfer on the strip? Is there any problem with availability on the Chrysler brake stuff, since they haven't used it since 85?
 

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i just got a set of bills arms for christmas from my wife. they are really nice, i got the rod ends. they have to reduce friction and speed up suspension movement. i also couldnt get my passenger side to align with std poly bushings. so it was either that or go with the moog offset problem solver bushings. as for the availabilty, im not sure the parts stores around here really suck. when i did my conversion the first time they ordered everything for me, it only took a day or 2. the napa i go to couldnt even get me a b motor gasket set. they ordered it and for some reason a few days later i got a call saying its unavailable. there is one good place buts it is more like a distributor. basically i just order anything i need onlie now. it is nuts thinking how much later arms go for i saw a set sell for over 200 bucks and needed new bushings and ball joints. i bought one complete setup for 100 bucks and the other for 175 with newer pads, good calipers and thick rotors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks James, I'm going to run over the parts list I would need to do the conversion, and get prices and availability from the parts store. Bill's arms sound like a nice setup if I can work it into the budget. I just got the car back on the street last summer with the drum brakes, and I hadn't planned on swapping to discs this soon, but I plan on racing this year and I remember how well the old drums work after a couple of runs. **(*) The car tracks well now, and the ball joints passed a safety, so I thought I might go for the ECI kit now and go through the suspension later on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have decided to take the car into the alignment shop, and have the current front end pieces checked out. o----o<> If nothing major needs to be replaced, I will probably go with the ECI setup. If I need a major suspension overhaul, then a rethink may be necessary. **(*)
 

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I would recomend their kits,I know the owner,and let him use some different spindles of mine to mock up the kits.I use wilwoods,but would have had used his brake kits,if they were available when I built the car.-Gene
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks Gene, that's exactly the kind of thing I was hoping to hear. By the way, if you know him, do you think he would give a BBD discount ? ::)
 

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I wish he would but I don't think he gives a discount to anyone,just that type of buisness man.He owns 3 expensive street rods,and has several homes,so money is important to him i think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well, the front end got a clean bill of health from the alignment shop, so it looks like the order is going to go in for the ECI kit. I'll let you know how I make out. If anybody's interested I could post a step by step on the install. o----o<>
 

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I installed a set of the ECI brakes on a 68 cuda for a customer. worked great the only thing I didn't like was the wheels he bought for the car were thick and the lug nuts only caught a few threads. I got set of 3" studs and cut them off in the chop saw so I could get a full stud length in the nut. Otherwise they worked awesome ... the car is a 383 4 speed with B body 10 X 2.5 rear brakes ... stops as well as my 05 magnum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
68 Val, I will be running stock steel wheels. I assume I shouldn't have a problem with the length of the studs? One other question. What did you use for a proportioning valve? Did you use the type that he recommends with the kit? He doesn't seem to have much use for the adjustable proportioning valves.
 
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